Any cap will do.
There are quite literally no rules to this.....If it's too dark to your ears, buy a smaller value cap (a higher tone pot k reading also does the same thing).
Too bright, go the other way.
You can often find bundles of various cap values for sale. I've used anything from .1uf to...
A high k like that is really only obtainable with very thin wire. As such it almost always will be better at high gain as it tends to suppress the transients.....in effect built in compression. An A8 magnet merely exacerbates the issue and the pickup is always 100% 'on'
Maybe the only way IMO...
^Sounds like a great one. The Behlen qualalac is brittle, but needs a catylist to start ambering.
If I have some ambered stringed instrument stuff and mix it into the raw qualalac then this usually starts the process.
The nitro that was sprayed in the 50s is no longer. You can get a less flexible formula but it still doesn't resemble the old stuff.
But......the best stuff I've got to Amber up in the sun, and the guitars which have checked the most consistently of all the ones I've made have been using the...
If you consider that your entire signal is generated/passes through the hair thin wire of the pickup, it is utterly inconceivable that changing from one massively thicker wire to another massively thicker wire will do anything.
Misguided hyperbole aside, a good analogy is your signal strength...
No, the vintage ones had potential intonation issues due to the excessive angle.....which at some point during the 50's was lessened.
The stock lightning bolt t/p guitars got the very straight angle as they were obviously somewhat compensated.
Flatter won't make the bridge sit higher.......the abr is practically right at the top of the virgin maple slab however pronounced the curve is.
What does make a difference here is:
actual neck angle
actual maple thickness
small differences to either of these as mentioned are significant.
Ah, so you're not noodling or songwriting, you're actually playing your setlist over and over (to a backing track?!?)
If you are using your regular pedalboard and don't really want to buy something new, maybe just bypass the boost pedal. That way you can still hit it for muscle memory, but not...
Yeah. To try and say you're definitively going to hear any difference on a guitar you've not yet built (And therefore have zero clue about precisely how it will sound fullstop) is taking the piss in a big way.
In fact this goes for any bit of wood you choose to make the guitar from. A Les Paul...
Type is somewhat irrelevant, value is important. Your current value is a stock sort of middle ground for humbuckers. If you want to change the tone a bit, then larger values are darker (both in a small way at 10, then much more as you turn down).
But the tone circuit does not make the sound cut...
Wondering why you need a volume boost at all when there is nobody else that you need to be louder than.
Also most boost pedals I've used will start off very low level. I've not yet come across one that does not start at unity or even below.
And if you end up at unity gain, then what need is...
The flying v is the same. There is a little protrusion of the body.....a lip on the bottom as it were.
But even if the neck did feature that lip at the bottom, you have still made it incorrectly as you guessed. The interface would have been a vertical/straight line on the side - not with a zig zag.
They don't make many, and they don't sell many (about what they make). Maybe they justify it that way (low sales), or maybe they have a huge market in the RH side, and the process to do a run of lefties (which interrupts the flow of the RH production more than merely changing a model) impacts...