I have a 2007 LP Studio in Worn Brown that I've been Hot-rodding. New wiring and pots (21 Tone Jimmy Page from BigLegCircuits with an Orange Drop .15 and .22 and treble bleed mod circuits), pickups (Seymour Duncan JB/Jazz), Bigsby B7 with Vibramate, Vibramate Spoiler, Mirrored on all covers and pickguard, Silver MIJ Speed Knobs, metal toggle switch tip, metal engraved toggle switch cover, locking strap buttons. I'm replacing the wilkinson style $6 dollar roller bridge with a Schaller Roller Bridge (from zinc alloy to steel), and in installing a B-Blender with a Delrin Roller to reduce the break angle and stop the bridge rocking/to stabilize the tuning) and will either mod the Vibramate Spoiler (may be more trouble than its worth) or order a Callaham Bar (The luthier that turned me on too the B-Blender had troubles with getting the high e on the post with the unit installed on his guitar), these last two and the cost of a intonation setup (I really need to get a notched straight edge, a string action guage, some radial feelers and a gibson allen wrench and i'd save myself a whole lot of trouble) being the hold up on installing them. I use a custom gauge too 10.5, 13, 17, 30, 40, and 50, GHS GB-DGG David Gilmour Signature Red. I really like the way they play and feel on this setup. The body is chambered (2006 was the last year they swiss cheesed them) Mahogany (Bookmatched). The chambering really lends itself to sustain (acoustically and in resonation/feel) , the 2007 model also had a Mahogany cap (darker tone), unlike the newer studios with a maple cap (brighter tone). The only further mods i'm looking at are a ABM roller nut (the current nut is fine but with a bigsby I'm thinking roller, graphite or brass seem nice too though), the grover 506C's (robo locking tuners), chrome humbucker rings (I like the uncovered tone so no humbucker covers). I like personalizing my instrument, I like having split coiling/coil tapping and control of phase etc, I like that the vibramate is no drill, the wiring was no solder (I did have my luthier solder the bridge ground and my DIY jumper wire to the pot). I like the spoiler but a Callaham steel bar has the holes drilled into it so it achieves the same thing, I'd have to cut/bend or drill/route the B slot on the spoiler as is to make room for the anchor screw/b string, and this also prevents me from using it as a G-Bender. The schaller roller bridge I got they adjusts forward and back as well as left and right along a cam and has the U style rollers for the 3 heavy and V style rollers for 3 light string. The rollers sit higher allows for the bridge to sit lower and be more stable on the screws, and the hardware is quality steel. I didn't go for the biggsfix as I feared it puts the roller bar in the way of the B-Blender, but the smaller Delrin roller looks like it will help with the extreme break angle. I took out the Burst Bucker Pros because I've been playing this instrument for years and think they are too muddy on such a naturally dark toned guitar and didn't really highlight this particular instruments timber, now it's gets that cream and throaty/crunch, Pearly Gates neck and the SD antiquities or 59's in the Bridge are just as great in this set up, and with the no solder set up i just screw in the leads to the terminal As the terminal connection is hard to get to when the pots are installed, I would suggest making your own quick connect system with 2, 4 wire male/female connectors, and to run a wire to the bridge ground to the terminal ground, and 2 more wires from the terminal ground to a 2, 1 wire quick connectors (these are for your pickup grounds, and you can solder the bridge wire and jumper to the pot this way). Heat shrink and identify Neck (4+1) and Bridge(4+1). If you decide to copper shield the cavity dont forget to ground it. Plus I think polished metal and wood grain have a cool aesthetic together.