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Discussion in 'Other Epiphones' started by impregnablecrunch, Dec 16, 2014.
Bingo! It throws the techs for a loop every time.
If you're looking into other possibilities for full hollow bodies, the Natural Finish Sorrento from GC / MF for $499 with HSC and gibson mini humbuckers is a heck of a deal. Very well made, great finish on it, and wonderful full hollowbody sounds. A bit brighter than P-90s but still a lot of growl if you want it.
The Peerless guitars look pretty good, and they have proper hardware, Epiphone hardware is horrendous.
No luck with the bridge yet.
If Casino's are fully hollow, do they have a sound post? If one of them was loose it'd cause a nasty rattle.
Or I could be talking from my arse, i'm no expert But maybe it's worth a look.
I had to return two Epi Casinos earlier this year, due to quality control issues.
The quality is just not there!
New MIC Casinos are what, $599? Musician's Friend has restocks for close to $400. Used, they go for around $350 for MIC, $400 for MIK, $700 for IBJLs, and $1,100 and up for Revolutions and Elitists.
I don't think putting $100 into a sub $700 guitar is all that crazy. Lots of folks here have put $400 worth of parts & labor into guitars like this and made them stellar.
Have you ever held a TonePros bridge in your left hand and an Epi bridge in the other? It's like night and day.
Change the TOM bridge for a GOTOH or Tone Pro's. They are solid, no rattles or loose parts and they are wider to give you more adjustment for intonation. I usually replace all the bridges on Epiphone and Gibson guitars with a Gotoh right off the bat.
Also check to make sure the threaded rods that support the TOM are tight in their holes in the body.
Just a small update for anyone interested how this seems to have played out.
I read everything you guys said and spent time considering it. I went back home for the holidays intent on returning it. The simple matter was that I really do not like the idea of paying what could be $100 or more just to have someone fix something that is really a defect, it just rubs me the wrong way. I liked the Casino as a guitar though, so the whole thing just was leaving me in a weird position as you guys know. The store had been really fair with me and the fact that they were willing to get me a 3rd, I just rolled with it.
The 3rd came right before Christmas, and I inspected it really closely. Truth is that the 2nd one had a few tiny finish issues, which gladly the 3rd one (or 1st for that matter) did not have. Once it got home it sat in the case for the first day to acclimate, that and I was sort of nervous that this was going to be another bogus guitar. I said to hell with it and started playing it. No problems, so it has been around a week of solid playing with pretty much no issues at all. I am pretty happy, but generally leery that the issue may eventually come up. The guitar plays really well right now though and it only needs a few minor setup tweaks to be A+.
Long story short, I am fairly certain I am keeping number 3. I am aware this problem may come back, but so far it is clear sailing. If it rears its head I will just get a solid aftermarket bridge (Gotoh or Tonepro is what I was thinking too) and hopefully that would be the end of it. As of right now though, there is no real indication of anything being off. I have been using a Mustang III building a bunch of nice Interpol-esque settings to toy with, the people who have heard me think the guitar sounds excellent.
After their last price-increase of 30-50% they are just far from being a deal...
Search Results - Page 1 - Thomann UK
why pay 1100 Euro for a 'Songbird' which is a korean made Casino...?
why pay 1400 Euro for a 'Gigmaster' which is a korean made ES-295
You can get a korean made ES-175 Premium with Gibson pickups for 770 +80 Euro for the case
And hopefully an Epi ES-295 later this year for a more reasonable price!
Sorry, I'm jumping the gun. That should be "later NEXT year!"
Good to hear, sometimes you gotta kiss a few frogs...
What? Is this wishful thinking or a was there some announcement? Used Epi ES-295s are going for upwards of $700 in my neck of the woods...
Yep, just saw it.
Damn you Jim Rosenberg!
Fellow Casino owner here... Can anyone help me work out which is the correct Tonepro bridge to use... I have fitted a Bigsby and a Tusq nut and am thinking about changing the bridge, but I don't want the hastle of changing the studs.
Which Casino do you have? The originals used US (Imperial) hardware and the 1965 and Elitists may too although I'm not sure about those. One thing I've learned the hard way is to accurately measure the stud spacing and check the specs before ordering. The measurements are center-to-center and you can remove the bridge if that makes it any easier to dimension. Also check the string spacing, or you may have to re-notch the saddles.
In any case, it's likely that it's this one: TPFP – TonePros Metric Tuneomatic (large posts, notched saddles) | TonePros
I would also try to talk you into replacing the studs - they are much higher quality than the stock Asian and it guarantees a perfect fit and ease of adjustment.
Thanks... It's Korean (Unsung), are the studs easy to remove/replace?
Look down into the empty studs with a flashlight.
If you can see wood, all you have to do is put a small bolt in there and reinsert the bridge post.
Then tighten down the post and the stud will magically rise up.
Add another bolt when you run out of threads.
They should come out without damaging the finish if you go slowly.
If the studs are solid on the bottom, insert the bridge posts and pry out like this:http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/other-epiphones/290033-great-casino-fretjob-caper-2.html#post6104866
PS, take your time and don't forget to make sure the ground wire stays put.
For inserting new posts I like to use my drill press as an arbor press.
But you can also tap them in with a plastic-faced mallet on a nice solid surface.
Just make sure to protect everything, top and bottom.
You sir are a Genlteman and a scholar! Cheers
Well, another and probably final update in the saga.
I am done. I have had enough, and this has been my worst guitar experience in the 10 years or so that I have been playing. A huge waste of my time and relatives money. I loved the Casino for the one week at a time it would not rattle worse than a petulant baby shaking his toy.
The rattling came on guitar 3, and it is REALLY annoying. I like to sit on the couch playing unplugged to practice, and I think it is unacceptable for the guitar to not play cleanly unplugged. I tried just about everything imaginable, tightened everything, checked the wire, etc. I took it to the first tech, she looked over it and even removed the bridge wire; no luck. She does not even want to really deal with the guitar, I can't say I blame her. I went to a good luthier in NYC which was an immense inconvenience, but I figured I like the guitar if this can settle it, why not try. They look it over and he comes to a similar conclusion, basically this is a thing with these guitars and that they could work on it but it may return. It was decent of them to spend time for free looking at everything, but it simply was not worth putting good money into what seems to be a chronic problem with these guitars.
I am pretty upset to be honest. I don't think it is asking much to have a guitar that does not sound like it is rattling all the time. I called Epiphone as well and they want me to ship it to them on my dime, on the off chance they fix it (doubt it) or they send me yet ANOTHER Casino. Right now I am still in my return period, so I am just washing my hands of this. I am also stuck with the hardcase now, so I have to find a way to offload that as well.
Thank you Epiphone for a 1.5 month odyssey and one of the most awful and inconvenient guitar buying experiences in my life.