Wiring Library

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by ashbass, May 30, 2007.

  1. Rod Neep

    Rod Neep Member

    Messages:
    79
    Likes Received:
    143
    Joined:
    Nov 7, 2014
    Yup! :naughty:
    Because I couldn't find anyone else anywhere that had solved it.
    And because this was a solution, I consider it had actually solved it.
     
  2. Pwrmac7600

    Pwrmac7600 Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,769
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2014
    When recording I want to get the purest signal though, so a wireless wouldn't really solve my issue. Next weekend I am off the entire weekend, so I am going to do some experimenting, and see if retiring my studio and redistributing my power solves the problem, also rerouting my cabling to ensure I don't have any power cables near audio cables. And if that fails I wll try lifting the ground and see what happens.
     
  3. Bill Hicklin

    Bill Hicklin Senior Member

    Messages:
    6,418
    Likes Received:
    7,408
    Joined:
    Nov 3, 2014
    It seems like vintage 3-pot wiring, like here: http://www.elderly.com/vintage/items/images/30U/30U-5627_wiring.jpg is already halfway to "50s-style" 4-pot wiring, in that the tone pot is fed from the switch output- electronically identical from taking it off the volume output.

    The principal difference is that instead of having the cap mounted between the volume and tone pots, instead of the signal passing through the cap on the way to the tone pot, the cap is on the pot output and goes to ground from there (what in this thread somewhere was dubbed "Asian-style").

    But IIRC, with a cap and a resistor in series, it doesn't matter at all which comes first in the signal path? Whether the order is cap-pot-ground or pot-cap-ground, the result ought to be the same. Shouldn't it? It would be possible to hook up the cap 50's LP style by putting it in between the switch lead and the pot input, but in theory at least it shouldn't make a difference. Or have I missed something?
     
  4. Pwrmac7600

    Pwrmac7600 Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,769
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2014
    So I purchased a Rackmount power conditioner yesterday redid my electrical layout in my studio and buzz is now gone!
    The power conditioner definitely is the fix for me. All of the outlets are isolated, so I don't have to worry about wall warts causing problems in my chain. nothing left but the typical gain hum.
     
  5. Twik

    Twik Junior Member

    Messages:
    15
    Likes Received:
    9
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    Ok, so i started a thread with this, but thinking someone might catch it here and better explain.
    I am installing (re-installing) 2 Dragon II's into an epi LP without push/pull. I want to use these as standard Humbuckers...
    I know that the the black of one is hot and the white of the other is hot. I am told the red is a split/coil/shunt?
    Previously the white was taped off on both white wires. I was told they were just trying to use single coils...
    my question is, where to these wires go to run them "normal" both coils? Hot to the volume tabs yes? then the shielded mesh to the back of the same pot? then what do I do with the red and the the white/black respectively? Do they get wired together then taped off?
    Thank you for any direction.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. cgm

    cgm Senior Member

    Messages:
    444
    Likes Received:
    195
    Joined:
    Feb 13, 2012
    I am thinking about upgrading the caps on my Gibson LP Jr. Special and switching to 50's wiring.

    Does this look like the right plan?
    [​IMG]

    What is everyone's thoughts on caps for p90's? I was thinking about these New Old Stock K40Y-9 .047/200V Paper in Oil Tone Capacitor from Martin Six String:
    [​IMG]
     
  7. tonedragon

    tonedragon Senior Member

    Messages:
    870
    Likes Received:
    545
    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2012
    Have the 50's mod done w/master volumes. Now I'm still getting a little sound with volume off. Time for new pots?????
     
  8. stone_gossard

    stone_gossard Senior Member

    Messages:
    238
    Likes Received:
    119
    Joined:
    Feb 18, 2009
    hello,

    regarding the 50s wiring, i have successfully wired complete wire harness on my epi lp together with pup upgrades..i see alot of improvement..its straight forward logic upgrading cheap wires,pup etc from stock epi parts...and it did improved alot..no argument about that,,..and this was my only job wiring done in my entire life.

    now, i have gibson lp standard 2006 with metal plate in control cavity..the pup neck is burstbucker 1 (the stock bb pro was ruined) and bb pro V on bridge..i like the sound of the bridge, edgy, crunchy and suits my needs..however, the neck is a bit problematic in tone...

    however, i like the neck tone when doing solo on neck pup..can easily get women tone by rolling down the tone pot ...even on 10! at 0 still fantastic..

    the only complaint on this neck pup are:

    1. volume output, i can feel unbalance volume (all controls on 10 both neck and bridge) between neck n bridge. Is this because of different magnets in them? alnico 2 vs 5?

    2. when playing power chords on neck (dirt pedal), the sound too soft/muddy..not clear on string definition..

    my question,

    1. i have bought a pair of jupiter yellow vintage tone caps 22mf. If i swap the stock caps with this jupiter, without doing 50s wiring, would i get to solve my problem on neck pup? as you know it would require me to buy new pots as the lug on tone pots grounded to back of pot are wired differently on modern and 50s.

    2. if i decided to upgrade all pots to A500k and 50s wiring, theoretically it will brighten up my neck pup, but i would also brighten up my bridge pup, which in nature bb pro V bridge is already a bright pup. will this make it overly bright and harsh?

    thanks!
     
  9. Pwrmac7600

    Pwrmac7600 Premium Member

    Messages:
    7,769
    Likes Received:
    5,902
    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2014
    I am debating rewiring all my Les Pauls to remove the metal plate in the control cavity. Trying to find out a good source for wire to create the ground loop (not literally) on the pots.
    Any suggestions?

    And is there any real benefit to doing this, or purely cosmetic. I do like the ida, of not having to remove the entire harness just to remove or adjust a pot.
     
  10. DPaulCustom

    DPaulCustom Senior Member

    Messages:
    2,219
    Likes Received:
    1,383
    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2011
    For neatness sake, I've often used a piece of braided wire connecting all the star washers under the pots, & the bridge ground to the neck vol pot.
    Does the trick, & is a bit less obtrusive up top, plus you don't have to muck up the back of your pots with a bunch of solder blobs.
    Kinda like the star washer ground on a strat.
    Thought I'd mention it, YMMV
     
    1 person likes this.
  11. segoy

    segoy Junior Member

    Messages:
    14
    Likes Received:
    10
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2014
    Hi guys!
    I need a little help on wiring.
    I want to have 2 humbuckers in parallel/serial mode on 2 push/pulls but I want to do it in vintage 50s way wiring.

    I want to use this wiring diagram (below). Can you advice what should I do differently to make it 50s style wiring?

    [​IMG]
     
  12. jmc6336

    jmc6336 Senior Member

    Messages:
    145
    Likes Received:
    51
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2013
    Just wired up my pots and switch using the mojotone.com les paul kit, waiting on my pickups to come in the mail tomorrow.

    Just wanted to throw it up here and see if you guys catch anything wrong.

    Switch wires: White= grnd
    Red = neck
    Green=bridge
    Black = Output

    I have a ground going from the output jack to the neck tone pot, also a ground wire from the bridge posts to the neck volume pot.

    Dont know why the pic is rotated, volumes on the top, tone on bottom

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

    Attached Files:

  13. warprider

    warprider Senior Member

    Messages:
    128
    Likes Received:
    84
    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2011
    I started looking for alternatives to the 3 HHH diagram I used previously on a Firebird that was flawed in that the middle pickup was always "on" in the circuit, severely weakening the bridge output. After racking my brain for almost 2 years, a more knowledgeable person took 1 look at the diagram & told me the middle pot needed to be a no-load, something not specified in the original diagram. I made the adjustment, & also put a no-load in for the tone & voila. Success.

    Here's that popular wiring scheme that I had the problem with. Searching for a couple years, I found others had the same issue.
    [​IMG]

    My question is, are these the same diagram? They appear to be, but I'm having trouble trying to decipher the modified HHH 3V 1T you posted.

    If anyone else can point me to any other HHH 3V 1T diagrams, I'd be grateful. I'm gonna put in 500k pots instead of the 300k Gibbys that currently reside in there.

    Thanks all.
     
  14. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

    Messages:
    17,091
    Likes Received:
    4,350
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2008
    For 3 pickup LPs & SGs Gibson used a special 3 pickup toggle switch with extra lugs. The other wiring diagram just shows standard Switchcraft 3 way toggle switch. Notice that the signal path for the middle pickup is slightly different in each diagram.
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. shreddog

    shreddog Junior Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2014
    Hey guys, I think this is my first post here. I searched pretty extensively and couldn't find an answer. It may be because the question is really basic and I just don't have enough understanding of the wiring between V and T pots. I have a couple of LP Studios and I want to add a treble bleed. So, standard modern wiring has a capacitor between the V and T pots for each pickup. When adding the treble bleed cap/resistor (Duncan/Kinman variety) does the original cap stay like it is and then you just add the cap/resistor to the two V pot lugs? In all the treble bleed pics I see it only shows the V pot and so it doesn't really show how the T pot is connected. Hope that's a clear question. Thanks.

    Great forum btw. :applause:
     
  16. shreddog

    shreddog Junior Member

    Messages:
    2
    Likes Received:
    0
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2014
    I found a full schematic finally. My assumption was correct.
     

    Attached Files:

  17. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

    Messages:
    17,091
    Likes Received:
    4,350
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2008
    You could always just switch the capacitor lead over to the center lug on each volume pot (50s wiring) and forget about the bleed kit. The 50s wiring puts the cap after the volume pot and helps retain the highs as volumes are rolled down ;)

    [​IMG]
     
  18. Twofox

    Twofox Junior Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2015
    Read through most of the thread, must have missed something....

    So I'm replacing PUs, pots, and cap. The above diagram is what i'll be following, however...

    I'd like to make the 50's mod to the cap. What confuses me are the wires that go from the switch to the tone, to the volume. Do I remove all of those? A schematic of the mod for a 2H, 1 vol, 1 tone guitar would help.

    Thanks!
     
  19. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

    Messages:
    17,091
    Likes Received:
    4,350
    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2008

    Wire your + pickup leads to the switch, solder the - pickup leads to back of volume pot. Then connect the + output of the switch to the outside lug of the volume pot (marked pickup lead on this 1V 1T 50s diagram)

    Also keep in mind most of those Seymour Duncan diagrams show an Import style toggle switch. A Switchcraft 3 way toggle has the ground lug and + hot lug on the opposite sides as compared to the Import toggle switches.

    Hope this helps.


    [​IMG]
     
  20. Twofox

    Twofox Junior Member

    Messages:
    5
    Likes Received:
    2
    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2015
    Funny enough, I finally looked at the guitar. It has all of the grounds connected to the switch (ground's a ground right?), and the pickup positive actually goes to the volume pot, then to the tone. Backwards from the other diagram. Mainly I just wasn't sure that the mod is the same as the 4 pot setup. Your diagram cleared all of that up for me. Thanks again!
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page