Wiring Library

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by ashbass, May 30, 2007.

  1. Bray n

    Bray n Senior Member

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    I'll be honest and say I am not sure. I was looking into replacing all the wiring/caps/pots. I assumed something like those bumblebee caps would affect tone to a high degree. My amp tech says the hand wired/military grade component thing is all marketing. ???
    But the pot the resistance makes sense.
    Thanks
     
  2. MojoMonster

    MojoMonster Senior Member

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    There is something to be said for wiring for effect, ie., coil cuts, phase, etc.
    There is something to be said for changing pot values, pot type and friction resistance (I'm thinking of those low-friction EVH pots).
    Using different cap types can have a slightly noticeable effect and changing cap value can alter the frequency response of the pickups, but optimizing that depends on the type of pickups, their position on the guitar and your ears/rig.
    There is definitely something to be said for wiring things the way you want/want it to sound.

    Personally, I like to use independent volumes and '50's wiring for my LP type guitars.
    When I want coil splits, series/parallel, etc., I tend to use the Seymour Duncan Triple Shot pickup rings just because they are super easy to install.
    Combine those with a pair of push/pulls for OOP and Series/Parallel between the two pickups and you've got the full Jimmy Paige mod with the addition of being able to select which coil is cut from the humbucker pair.
    I also prefer paper-in-oil caps, but nothing expensive and 500k pots.

    I don't like Gibsons 300K pots, so those are an automatic replacement for me on any LP, as well as adding PIO caps.
    After that, it depends on what I want.

    He's pretty much correct.
    Let's make a distinction between quality components and boutique/clone/retro components.

    Using quality components means your pots will work the way they should and hold up to use/abuse.
    The other stuff is for when you want to show off your crazy-expensive PAFs with NOS bumble bee caps with original cloth push-back wired '58 harness to your buddies.
    That stuff is all about nostalgia and that's perfectly fine.

    If your guitar has low quality components then it wouldn't hurt anything to replace them.
    If you are *unhappy* with your sound, I would suggest some basic changes like 500K pots(this tends to "open up" pickups by allowing higher frequencies through) and experimenting with the dependent/independent volume and modern/'50's wiring differences to see what you prefer.
    After that, you can decide on the more subtle changes like cap value and type.
    Make the changes sequentially so you can A/B the differences to see what you prefer.
    Record these so you can trust what you hear and not what you think you should hear.

    Tone chasing can be frustrating and expensive so unless it is something you really want to dedicate yourself to, just change the things you don't like.
    It sounds like your tech knows what he's talking about, so listen with an open ear.
    Determine what sounds good to *you*.

    Good luck.
     
  3. Bray n

    Bray n Senior Member

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    Great information MojoMonster. Thanks very much.
    He is a good tech and a very nice honest man. He designed a well known attenuator.
     
  4. WJBGuitar

    WJBGuitar Junior Member

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    I am new here. I want to share the results of my experimentation with 50's wiring vs. modern wiring, as well as 300k vs. 500k pots on my LP Studio 50's Tribute with 490r/498t humbuckers.

    I built a testing circuit on an external board including a 250k volume pot, a 500k volume pot, a 500k tone pot, one 0.022uF orange drop capacitor and some switches so that I could test all possible combinations (250k vol. with modern wiring, 250k vol. with 50's wiring, 500k vol with modern wiring and 500k vol. with 50's wiring).

    The results are the following:
    1) The tone is brighter, cleaner and clearer with 50's wiring compared to modern. It slightly lowers the output of the pickups and produces a better tone overall. Lows, mids and highs seem to be better balanced. The overdriven sound of 490r is much better for leads with 50's wiring. The volume and tone controls are more precise and useful with 50's wiring as well. As others have said, you don't loose highs as you turn down the volume with 50's wiring.

    2) 500k volume pot also turns the tone to be brighter compared to 300k. I also noticed a slight increase on the output of the pickups.

    Conclusion:
    At least for my taste, I considered 50's wiring to be a more significant upgrade to the overall tone of my guitar. I decided to keep the stock 300k volume pots and implemented just the 50's wiring. It was very easy to do: using a small cutting pliers I gently cut the terminals of the stock ceramic capacitors and soldered new 0.022uF orange drops caps (one terminal of the capacitor to the center lug of the respective volume pot and the other terminal to the center lug of the respective tone pot). There is no need to change the grounding on the tone pot (you can leave the stock grounding as it is). Also, there is no need to remove the PCB from the guitar to do this modification.

    Previous tone was good already, but now I am VERY happy with my tone!

    Another hint: the 490r/498t combo can deliver a great tone if you adjust their heights correctly. Again, for my taste, both have to be set reasonably far away from the strings. My 490r is set flat with the pickup ring. The 498t is set so that it produces a balanced output with the 490r. This way I can get beautiful cleans and smoother overdriven sounds from both of them.

    Well, these are my impressions, considering my specific scenario: a guy who likes to play the blues and old school rock'n'roll, trying to get better tones out of his LP Studio 50's Tribute with 490r/498t pickups.

    I hope to have helped!
     
  5. Tezuka27

    Tezuka27 Junior Member

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    Hi all, I'm new here and am restoring a '65 SG Jr. Like most of them, it seems, it had been abused over the years. This one had been humbuggered (DiMarzio) and had active electronics with mini-switches spliced into the harness. I made a new harness tonight following the 50s wiring LP Jr plan, and reused the .02, 50v ceramic disc capacitor that was in the original circuit. It dawned on me a few minutes ago that I have no idea if the capacitor is polarized or not. Can anyone tell me what I need to know about this?
    Thanks,
    john
     
  6. Tezuka27

    Tezuka27 Junior Member

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    OOOPS! Sorry. Just read the Debunking Myths About Capacitors. My question is answered. Please excuse the newb.:doh:

    john
     
  7. Alligatorbling

    Alligatorbling ★AstroCat★ Premium Member MLP Vendor V.I.P. Member

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    easy to read 50s wiring diagrams for LP and SG

    LP

    [​IMG]

    SG

    [​IMG]

    Volume wiring

    [​IMG]
     
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  8. chupe442

    chupe442 Confused as ever..... Premium Member

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    Question on Strat wiring harness. In most of the picts that I have seen, the CAP is soldered to the lug of the tone pot then to the grounds of the Volume pot and the other Tone Pot. Is that end of the Cap ONLY attached to those two ground wires or is it also grounded to the pot it comes from? Thanks!
     

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  9. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

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    Traditionally the Stratocaster wiring just used one cap for both tone pots, it is wired in parallel and sits on the back of the neck tone pot. One leg of the cap is wired to the back of the pot and the other leg jumps the hot lugs on both tone pots.

    In that wiring diagram of mine that you posted you can see that there is also a jumper wire on the side of the switch that also the lower tone control to work on the bridge pickup.


    Hope that helps...

    jonesy


    [​IMG]
     
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  10. chupe442

    chupe442 Confused as ever..... Premium Member

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    Thanks Jonesy! That's what I was hoping for! The drawing didn't show that joint the same as others on the back of the pots do. I did it and it works great. Just wanted to be sure It made sense the way I saw it.
     
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  11. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

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    :thumb:
     
  12. DangerMoney

    DangerMoney Member

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    Hi All,
    I want to wire a three-pickup Les Paul with the Peter Frampton wiring. I contacted Gibson and they supplied me some documentation but there's some details missing.

    The Frampton wiring works like this :

    [​IMG]


    The diagram above and the two images below are both from Gibson.


    [​IMG]




    [​IMG]



    I also got the following from a Frampton Les Paul owner. This is how his guitar is wired by Gibson. There's a fourth capacitor barely visible underneath the black heat shrink on the lower left pot.

    [​IMG]


    What I'm missing is the value for the four capacitors in the circuit. The defacto standard values Gibson uses is .022mF. Does anybody know the values for the four in the Frampton LP?

    TIA.
    DM
     
  13. DangerMoney

    DangerMoney Member

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    Frampton wiring - Regarding the two caps that are wired to both legs of the pots:

    Thanks to Midnight Blues for contacting Gibson and getting the info.
     
  14. nfpa

    nfpa Junior Member

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    will changing from standard wiring to 50s diminish the output of pickups?
    example: if I played heavy rock and I changed to 50s wiring but kept the same pickups would it make a difference with distortion or will it just change the tone?
     
  15. jonesy

    jonesy GLOBAL WIRING GURU MLP Vendor

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    Switching over to 50's wiring will help retain the highs as the volume is rolled off and will help reduce some mud. Other that that you won't notice any volume drop unless you roll the tone control off almost all the way then it may drop slightly.

    jonesy
     
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  16. nfpa

    nfpa Junior Member

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    thanks jonesy
    pulling all the electronics out of the lp that your doing the wire harness for.
    so im putting the old stuff in another guitar. btw my pickups came in today
    woohoo
     

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  17. Les-Paulverizer

    Les-Paulverizer Junior Member

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    Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 3 pickup les paul with an on/off switch for each individual pickup, with a master tone and master volume?
     
  18. MojoMonster

    MojoMonster Senior Member

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    It shows single coils, but that doesn't matter for your purposes.
    Just substitute the white wire in the diagram for the hot/non-ground wires of your humbucker(you'll need to confirm what you have).
    If you want to use push/pull pots as on/off switches the diagram gets a lot more complicated looking, but it is effectively the same thing.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. paulb3375

    paulb3375 Junior Member

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    Hello there, great thread.

    First post so please be gentle.

    I'm currently rewiring a 335 with a couple of push pulls to split the coils, and the megabucker mod looks quite interesting, so having studied numerous diagrams online i've modified this diagram as follows;
    [​IMG]

    1) Can someone with a lot more knowledge than me have a look and see if everything is OK?

    2) Are any modifications required?

    3) Do i need to incorporate 50's wiring?

    What i think will happen is
    Switch select neck;
    Neck volume push – std
    Neck volume pull – split single coil mode
    Volume and tone work as normal

    Switch select centre;
    Neck volume push – humbuckers in parallel with each other
    Neck volume pull – split (each humbucker audible in single coil mode) but parallel with each other
    Bridge volume push – humbuckers in standard parallel with each other
    Bridge volume pull – humbuckers in megabucker series with each other
    Bridge & Neck volume pulled – humbuckers split and in megabucker series.
    Volume and tone work as normal allowing blending

    Switch select bridge;
    Neck volume push – std
    Neck volume pull – split single coil mode
    Volume and tone work as normal

    It's my first go at this. Am i close, or do i need to go back to the drawing board?

    Thanks in advance.

    paulb3375
     
  20. mondomojo

    mondomojo Senior Member

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    I did not see this posted in this forum but I found it in another post by forum member Hotzlaw. Props to him for drawing this up and making it available.

    I can confirm that this in fact works on Epi T+ wiring. Enjoy!

    [​IMG]
     

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