why 5 PU wires on molex connector 2012 std

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by HIghAndDry, Jul 22, 2012.

  1. abracadaben

    abracadaben Senior Member

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    ok, jumping on this as I am planning to install SD JP in my 2012 std.
    stupid question? where is the ground on SD if they come with 4 wires only... or is tehre also a 5th wire which is the ground?
     
  2. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    Technically, not a wire. The 5th is the braided ground.
     
  3. FretBuzz

    FretBuzz Member

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    Sorry for the resurrection, but finding this thread has been a Godsend. I am about to order the parts, but I have one question.

    I am Looking at the terminal . Does the flat square part with the hole need to be crimped around the outside of the cable or detached?

    Thanks!
     
  4. DPaulCustom

    DPaulCustom Senior Member

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    The flat part is what "plugs" into the connector, before you plug the connector into the board, the "spikes" wrap around the wire.
    They're SMALL, & a PITA. A set of crimpers are almost a must, but if you have a good magnifying glass, & are patient, you can get buy without them.
    Have fun
     
  5. FretBuzz

    FretBuzz Member

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    Oh, thank you for the reply!

    I am looking at this schematic of the part, and I am not sure... the terminal is held to the housing by the little "tooth".

    I am not familiar with these terminals, but I am guessing that once I have them in front of me and do a couple test crimps it will make sense.

    I just got a cheap crimp tool on eBay for 20-28 AWG d-sub terminals. I can probably do it by hand, but $15 is worth my time and my sanity. I'm sure there will be a learning curve so I ordered plenty extras :p

    Thanks
     
  6. DPaulCustom

    DPaulCustom Senior Member

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    After looking at the schematic, my guess was wrong, it appears.
    My experience is mostly with the 2 conductor plug type.
    My guess at this point would be, either break it off, or, crimp it areund the wire jacket for added stability, & yes, those are the same crimpers I looked at on amazon, but I didn't get them, as I was only filling my curiosity, & used a pair of hemostats to do the crimps. I have since reverted to old school wiring, because of the low quality of the pots gibby uses on the pcb.
    Let me know how it works out for you.
     
  7. FretBuzz

    FretBuzz Member

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    Yeah, I think I'll figure it out once I have the parts on hand...probably within a week. I'll let you know how it worked out.

    I too plan to revert to old school wiring eventually.
     
  8. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    Guys, I can't express enough how valuable this thread has been to my sanity. I'm mod-ing my Epi SG. From a new paint job all the way down to the guts. I ordered the Gibson PCB and am planning to order SD Hot Rodded set of P-ups for this project. For my life I can't find a wiring diagram that makes much sense to me. North Start, south start doesn't do me (a noob) much good. I need to know what color goes in what hole when these connectors and p-ups come in, in the next week or so. HELP PLEASE!!
     
  9. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    This thread was for the 2012/2013 Gibson Les Paul Standard with the Fat-Taps, Phase and Bypass features.

    What PCB did you get? If it's a SG board then you'd probably be better off starting your own thread.

    In any case, you'll need to look at the SD and Gibson color codes for pickups as they are different. http://i479.photobucket.com/albums/...ar Wiring Diagrams/PickupColorCodeChart-2.png
    You want to then match the SD (pickup) wiring to the Gibson (PCB). So switch the coloring around on the pickup to match the PCB.
     
  10. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    PCB board.jpg

    I thought this was the exact same board you guys were discussing.
     

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  11. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    This helps. Any idea where I can find a pin out for the PCB Board? Having this helps to know what each wire is, now I just need to find where they go in the socket that plugs into the PCB.
     
  12. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    That is the exact same pico-blade connector used on the Standard. Does it have the fat-taps, pure bypass and phase like the Standard?

    I'd look at the pickups if you have them. Otherwise you can sorta figure out what goes where by looking at the PCB and tracing the tracks back to the components.

    Once you have the pickups with the terminals crimped on, it's fairly easy enough to swap the pin location in the plug.

    You might also try swapping the cap for a PIO. While you're at it you can even do 50's style wiring easily. I've seen rewired mine so it's in 50's style and like it a lot. Once you get some new caps you just have one leg in the original hole on the tone side and put the other leg to the pot, bypassing the board all together.
     
  13. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    "Does it have the fat-taps, pure bypass and phase like the Standard?"
    Not sure. I'm fairly decent at these sorts of things but pretty new and doing anything on my guitars and terminology.

    I think what I will try and do, and probably what your telling me, is to look up a pic of Gibson's p-ups with this connector on it and match the wire colors to the terminology on the diagram you posted and then just put the SD corresponding wires in their place.
     
  14. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    Attaching a pic I found with Google. That would make Red= 1=North Start 2=South Start 3=North Finish 4=South Finish 5=bare ground.

    Logic seem correct?
     

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  15. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    Are the pots push-pull? (ie., Does it have coil-splitting?) Looks like a fairly simple setup. Strange that they went with the pico-blade connector unless they are going to standardize it with all their guitars. You usually see Micro 3.0 connectors Z(the big black connectors) which are the 2-Con's (braided wire).
     
  16. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    They used the information from this thread, IIRC. If you don't flip the bridge magnet, you run both sides with the same color code. At least for a Standard.
    If when playing both pickups the sound is muted then you have to switch the pins as the pickups will be in phase and cancel out each other.
     
  17. Jeckyl1382002

    Jeckyl1382002 Junior Member

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    Ok, Thanks for the help. I'm planning to pick up the p-ups either tomorrow or Monday and will make an attempt. I'll report back how it comes out.
     
  18. eldorado

    eldorado Junior Member

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    Hey guys, thanks for the site access.

    Sorry for the bump, but I am doing something similar, matching Giovanni GVH-1 buckers into Epi Quick Connect pots.

    Just to confirm the above, is pin #1 the top pin (i.e the pin towards the top of the little PCB) or is pin #1 the bottom pin on the PCB?
     
  19. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Senior Member

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    I'd get out a multimeter and check. It's the only way to be sure.
     
  20. jeffy

    jeffy Senior Member

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    Huh? The pin numbers correspond to the terminals in the connectors. The connectors have a top and a bottom. In this case the locking tabs on the connector are on the top. Pin 1 is always on the left as you look at it from the wire side.

    [​IMG]
     

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