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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by 73Custom, Dec 19, 2009.
Uh, MORE info on this, please!!!!!
As soon as I get some more free time, I am going to post my build thread. Anything specific that you’d like to know?
My shop has no heat and it was 6 F. all weekend outside, so not as much work accomplished as I had hoped, but I did start out Jan 1
by finishing the necks and put a radius on 2 fretboards.
Trying some weird wiring on the Oscar Schmidt.
Making some nuts out of a scrap of Corian I found. Pretty cool stuff.
Very nice. I made one and found that it chipped pretty easily when filing. But it cleans up nicely and works well.
No. Just everything.
Chris, what's your process of getting such clean channels for the rods in the neck?
I had a corian nut break into two pieces on a gig. I had dressed some fret slots the day earlier and apparently had stressed it in some way.
I use my router table for that. I cut the channels while the neck blanks are still completely square and the fence on the router table keeps my cut perfectly straight and clean. I make about 4-5 passes for each channel as opposed to trying to cut the full depth all at once. This keeps sawdust from building up in the channel and screwing up the cut...
I also use a solid carbide, spiral upcut bit to make the cuts. Its super sharp, runs cooler, and pulls the chips out of the slot.
Once I have all the channels cut and the carbon rods glued, then I cut the necks out of the blanks.
The bit in the picture below is not the bit I cut the channels with. The pictured bit is a fatter one I use to widen the slot at the heel to accommodate the barrel end of the spoke wheel truss rod...
Precisely my method as well.
Chris, have you ever tried gluing on the fretboards while everything is still square and rectangular and oversized (including the fretboards)? And THEN cutting out the profile of the neck. I believe this is the absolute best way.
I've seen you do that and considered it myself. I like how easily and precisely you can locate the fretboard and keep it in place while clamping without having to drill through fret slots to place pegs or other odd ways of keeping it from moving when its clamped. I also like the idea of gluing a perfectly flat board to a perfectly flat board with regard to getting nice, even clamping pressure end to end and a perfect glue joint
I'm not sure I have a valid reason for not trying it other than "I've always done it this way" which I will freely admit is a terrible reason for sticking with any process, and of course "always" only goes back 3 years for me. Perhaps I should consider that I'm too young in this craft to be set in my ways
I'm going to give it a try on my next build.
That’s how I ended up doing mine.
Spent a chunk of mrs mux's birthday levelling the silky oak, pic 2 and 3, and the two safs are coming along nicely.
I still have another 2 body blanks of silky oak that has been levelled, but still with the live edge on them
I've got some roasted maple and oil on my workbench
Ok thats gorgeous
Silky oak thin line Tele, the sides are a bit softer so I flooded it with superglue, seems a lot harder now.
And the strat will be back on the bench when it stops being 43 degrees Celsius.
The guy who is buying it wants it hammered black and another pickup and a switch in it.
That and I
have to get a new router since mine shat itself today, it's probably the 4th or 5th router I have had in four years. Also worth noting I have only had this one for 4 weeks max, luckily it's a replacement warranty but I can't find my receipt, so who knows if they will replace it
either you are working those routers WAY too hard, or you are buying under-powered routers. I bought a 2 1/4 hp router 4 years ago and it's don't the lions share of my routing. Necks, bodies, cavities, etc, and it's still going strong.
Might seem better to get the cheapest one at the time of purchase, but if you factor the total cost of all your routers, you've probably spent more buying 5 cheap ones than I did buying one good quality router...
I finished the carves on these two bodies. Two more to go in the batch.