What's on YOUR workbench right now?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by 73Custom, Dec 19, 2009.

  1. Ripthorn

    Ripthorn Senior Member

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    Finally no longer on the bench. This guy rocks! Better pictures to come later.

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  2. jkes01

    jkes01 Senior Member

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    New handle for my fret saw. Still a ton of work to make it ready to cut fret slots, but glad to get this far. :thumb:

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  3. Ripthorn

    Ripthorn Senior Member

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    Lovely pattern. Looks like a pretty decent hang angle, though it's designed for cut on the push. let us know how it works for the fret saw, which I assume is cut on the pull stroke. Small rasps are the best for working totes. I used them all the time on plane totes and what few saw totes I make.
     
  4. jkes01

    jkes01 Senior Member

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    Thanks Rip. It's a standard medium pattern, but redesigned on my iPad to better fit my hand. All the curves were tweaked to fit either forstner bits or sanding drums I have in the garage.

    I was actually afraid it would be too small, so I printed it off and prototype'd it in good 'ol genuine "Cardia Boarda." Glad I did, it's a perfect fit. Also gave me an opportunity to measure for my finger bumps.

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    I actually had a large bubinga blank all glued up and decided to cut it apart and highlight the glue joint with a little maple/walnut/maple lamination. I reinforced the glue joint with maple dowels prior to cutting it out. Unfortunately, don't have any quality rasps. I'll have to figure out how I'm gonna contour it. :hmm:

    Not sure if all western style fret saws are all pull. :dunno: The saw pictured is an inexpensive German back saw. I plan on profiling the teeth to a hybrid cross cut and set to fit standard fret wire. If not, I'll still have a decent saw for miters and dove tails :thumb:
     
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  5. Ripthorn

    Ripthorn Senior Member

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    If it's an inexpensive gents' type saw, then it is probably push cut. What fasteners are you using? Split nuts? I've thought for some time about putting a real tote on my fret saw, but it's getting dull any way. I've thought about giving it a go resharpening it, but I'm not sure if I can find any xx-slim taper files that would fit it right. That and setting to .023" seems like quite the task. If you manage to set it successfully, let us know how you did it. I've got an old saw set, but it won't do teeth that small.
     
  6. jkes01

    jkes01 Senior Member

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  7. mux164

    mux164 Senior Member

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  8. charisjapan

    charisjapan Senior Member

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  9. mux164

    mux164 Senior Member

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    I've got a picture framing mitre saw that I use, it's .60mm kerf, I can try to figure out in inches, then I use a triangle file to chamfer it so the frets go in.
    Hopefully I get a life time out of that saw
     
  10. charisjapan

    charisjapan Senior Member

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    Hey Mux!

    Your 0.60mm is 0.0236". I used a 0.58mm (0.0228") saw on my bass guitar with JESCAR frets, perfect for the "softish" cherry sapwood. I just don't know how critical it is to be a perfect fit. This particular saw kit only has 0.020" (0.508mm) and 0.025" (0.635mm) blades ... or should I forget those and find the "just right" blade?

    Is it just me, or does it seem that anything that is "just right" for luthiers is about double the price of a commonly available anything?! ;)
     
  11. Ripthorn

    Ripthorn Senior Member

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  12. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    Both Jescar and Dunlop make 0.020" tang fret wire. I think they also make 0.024", which may work with the 0.025" kerf of the other blade. You'd have to test it and see. I bought a 0.024" dia. CNC endmill for cutting fret slots and will be testing soon to see if my Stew Mac fret wire will work. BTW Stew Mac say all of their wire is 0.023".

    Cheers Peter.
     
  13. mux164

    mux164 Senior Member

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    Mate I don't know, I'm probably the last person to ask, since I use the cheapest wire and oddball fingerboards
     
  14. mux164

    mux164 Senior Member

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    IMG_7693.JPG IMG_7694.JPG Free handed some routing, sanded every thing to 240, will get up to steel wool shortly and clear coat
     
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  15. dcomiskey

    dcomiskey Member

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    This isn't exactly my "workbench" but will help me put a lot more on it! I have, probably, two dozen slabs of figured maple I've scored off ebay the past two years (I'm a hoarder, apparently) but my antique bandsaw I got of CL a few yrs ago couldn't resaw anything over 6". This Rikon can do nearly 14." My first test slice with a Resaw King blade gave me a thin .08" slice. I'm happy. :) I should have enough bookmatched tops for 100+ guitars.
     

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  16. 61LPSG

    61LPSG Senior Member

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    Ok, I'm jealous. Now get ripping.:cheers2:
     
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  17. Skyjerk

    Skyjerk Meatbomb

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    Nice stuff. good blade. I use a 1" resaw king blade. Best I ever used :)
     
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  18. Ripthorn

    Ripthorn Senior Member

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    I started working on the knobs for the multiscale Baryon build that is otherwise done. Here is the dual concentric setup, aluminum top knob and Indian rosewood lower knob. The other two will hopefully get finished this week. They have been roughed out with the inlay put in them, just a little more work to go.

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  19. Barnaby

    Barnaby Premium Member

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    It's my workbench, but not my work - I've been waaaay too busy to do anything for months, but my awesome student Shizuho has just done a test stringing of her second instrument. This one's a shortscale bass with a paulownia body and a maple neck. There's rounding over yet to do, then it's final sanding and finishing!

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  20. mux164

    mux164 Senior Member

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    IMG_7704.JPG IMG_7705.JPG IMG_7706.JPG Don't know why the top looks so dirty, I gave it a good sanding after I carved the top, just need to tidy up inside the horns
     
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