I've been on a quest to improve my fretwork skills significantly and this a pictorial of the work I'm doing on my Inspired By John Lennon Casino. This is the MIC version with the USA guts that's just been discontinued, but it could be any old Casino, 335, Sheraton, Riviera, what have you. I should start by saying that the factory setup on this guitar wasn't terrible, I just really wanted to see how much I could improve it and make it more fun to play. I should also tip the chapeau to Master Luthier Roman whose "Complete EPI custom setup" thread generously reveals his pro tips, gave me the confidence to attempt this level of work, and ultimately inspired this post. Apologies in advance for any redundancies or plagiarisms, but as they say, "good artists copy, great artists steal". Here's the board at the start. It has that pale, dry, waxy look that a lot of new Epis seems to have: So we'll carefully remove the nut and scrape 'er down with a razor per Roman's method: On Casinos, the neck pickup is butt up against the fretboard and since it's a P90, can't be lowered like a Humbucker, so it has to be removed. Note the notched center strip - this runs under the pickups and down to the bridge for support strength: Next, we'll look at how flat the neck is between frets 1 and 12: It's about 7 thousandths of and inch bowed so we'll need to fool with the truss rod until it's flat. While we're at it, lets look at the neck a bit closer to the body: Still pretty close to 0", so we can proceed to looking for high frets. But just for shits and grins, let's double check the whole board with a precision straight edge: OK, now we know the board is really flat from end to end and can start looking for high frets: I used to use a string height gauge for this, but this little fret rocker works much better and makes a solid little "click" when it rocks: Plus it has different dimensions on each side, so easy to fit across any set of 3 frets: As I go, I mark the tops of each fret with a magic marker where the frets are high. I make sure to check all the way across the board because frets aren't consistently high from side to side. Where there's no click, I don't mark it so I know not to bear down on that spot. Another tip: don't use a black marker, it's impossible to see on a fret. Blue seems to work well but red, green, purple are fine too. I also need to know the board radius so I don't over-file the edge of the frets: Regardless of what the specs say, I think this unit has a 16" radius. I'd rather err on the side of caution anyway, so the 16" block will get used with 400 grit 3M Stickit paper. (I have several of these blocks in different radiuses (radii?) so I've marked them in big black numbers so I don't grab the wrong one.) Here you can see the high marked areas getting sanded off: Dan Erlewine says that beginner fret jockeys tend to file off too much metal and this reduces the number of fret jobs possible until a refret is necessary. I won't make that mistake.