The 2017 Shaw Revival (my 82 CAR Standard, 2 Shaws and 1 Notta Shawatol)

Discussion in 'Pickups' started by DarrellV, Dec 27, 2017.

  1. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    They Live!!!!

    Dave:

    I've wound the neck and new bridge but I'm having mixed emotions here.

    These Shaws rebuilt and cleaned up are stunning and they just feel right. I've been a Shaw fan for a long time and still love them so it's an irrational emotional attachment to something historic.

    [​IMG]

    Haha, anyway... I'm letting the pickups sit overnight so the magnets/metals can mesh. I hit both magnets with a recharge but surprisingly (for Gibson) they were already max charged and neither one changed significantly. Regardless, they still need to rebalance and saturate the metals before I'll get a proper tone test out of them.

    Here's some thoughts (about the 53mm Not Shaw).

    I think the Shaw mag in the 53mm bridge is going to be very weak...weaker than the original.

    They're smaller magnets, much shorter than a standard mag and with the elongated coil and spread out poles it might decrease the field even more given the low charge on them. I'm going to try it out anyway because I could be wrong.

    If it does suck, I'm going to swap in one of my PAF style A2 that charges a bit hotter and should give more oomph in comparison to the neck with Shaw magnet.

    Then I'll try A5 and see how that goes; maybe even a C8.

    When winding the bridge, the extra length of the bobbin core made it come out a fair bit hotter with the same number of turns (as you'd speculated back when).

    It reads 8.4k but is still warm from handling and soldering so I suspect that'll settle down to 8.0-8.2 overnight.

    Here's my thoughts. If it doesn't give proper volume when I test this 53mm, I'd like to pull the metals/magnets and rebuild the original Shaw from all the original parts. I can do whatever sounds best on the 53mm.

    If the 53mm sounds good as is then I can rebuild the original Shaw with parts from a mid 80's Gibson donor bucker I have. It even has gold poles!
     
  2. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Winding things up!

    Me:

    Were you able to wind them with a little breathing room like we talked about?

    Dave:

    Oh and yessir, I took the tension down a fair bit on them. I usually wind 42poly at ~22G tension but these are down between 14-16G. Not baggy and loose but definitely not toight!

    I've done up a bunch of pics of the steps and have them on my server. I'd like to do up a thread on the process if you don't mind and can send links of all of them, or you can download from the thread when up. I'll embed the pics and give a brief rundown of the process in each step.

    Currently I'm doing the tone testing and like the A2 in the 53mm best. Going to try A5 today. The ceramic was a bit too bright for my tastes.

    The original Shaws rewound sound fantastic though!

    I just tested the A5 (in the 53mm Not-Shaw) and here's initial thoughts:

    Definitely louder than the A2 so much easier to balance.

    Tone is a touch less Shaw and more T-Top but no volume issues like the A2 so balancing is really easy against the neck. I do prefer the A2 tone though.

    A5 it is!


    It's a nice sounding pickup and volume balance is essential. I'll still send the PAF sized A2 though in case you get curious.
    A lot of people despise T-Tops and Shaws but I have always maintained they're among my favorite Gibson pickups. Early 57 Classics are up there as well.

     
  3. CheopisIV

    CheopisIV Copper Slinger MLP Vendor

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    Dave? Dave? Dave's not here...
    [​IMG]
    I feel your pain.

    Dealing with some sick kids and other things but I'll be posting the other side of this majestic and historic Shaw Revival event as soon as possible :)
     
  4. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Unboxed them at home and tried on their new looks!

    I'm leaning toward the open covers because I like the zebra coils showing.... But there is still that classic Gold to contend with.... sigh!

    That's why I'm not soldering anything on. When the mood strikes me I can change the look fairly easy...

     
  5. JohnnyN

    JohnnyN Old School Premium Member

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    Zebra pickups look great, but on that guitar, the full gold covers looks right to me - YMMV :)
    In general I like covered humbuckers, better than uncovered. If they were women on the other hand... :naughty:
     
  6. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Yeah, I'm seeing that too...

    I'm also thinking about gold metal rings... what do you think.
    These would be more for the zebras and open covers.
    [​IMG]
     
    bulletproof and I Break Things like this.
  7. JohnnyN

    JohnnyN Old School Premium Member

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    I don't know, but I never cared much for metal rings, nor open covers. Guess I'm stubbornly old school.
    I think my choice would be between covered or uncovered, but it's a tough one.
    [​IMG]
    :)
     
  8. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Sneak Peek Preview!


    :welcome:

    So Dave and Johnny here have been asking what they would look like in situ so here's a preview. :dude:

    Keeping in mind I am waiting for new electronics to arrive from @Tone Man Guitar that I just ordered this past week, so nothing works.

    That's why its just a preview...

    Looks like its gold covers or zebras because the open covers are poorly made and won't fit in the route! :mad:

    Oh, well.... its not THAT big of a tragedy! I'm still thinking about putting a B-5 Bigsby on it down the road ala @Christosterone !

    so the gold covers will go well with it.

    Ah, but those zebras tho....

    This is the 53mm Not Shaw going in


    Real Shaw in the neck


    Fake strung for effect, LOL!

    Meanwhile, on the backside...Ooops!

    Still a mess of parts to go...

    Here's some with the covers off! You can plainly see how much better the bridge pole screws align with the strings now!

    This is the 53mm Not Shaw in aged white and black
     
  9. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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  10. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Finished my shopping at Philidelphia Luther Supply...

    Got all the trimmings to lined up finish Dayenu in her new clothes!

    Lots of gold bling, Chris would be proud!

    And I'm getting a custom switch ring ! Yay!

    EDIT: BTW if anyone wants any of these clicking on it takes you to their page. Makes ordering easy. I didn't know that when I popped them on here.

    [​IMG]
    Gold Deep Nut for Switchcraft toggle switch fits Gibson guitars

    [​IMG]
    Gold Switch Knob Tip for GibsonĀ® Les Paul switches US size

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Switchcraft 1/4" Guitar Output Jack - Gold plated

    [​IMG]
    Vintage Braided Shielded Cloth Push-Back Wire for Guitar 5 feet

    [​IMG]
    Plastic Mounting Rings for Curved Tops in Ivory

    [​IMG]
    Vintage 90 degree Pointed Knob Dial Position Indicator GOLD

    [​IMG]
    Custom Personalized Toggle Switch Ring Plate
    Color: C2
    Line 1: BEAUTY
    Line 2: ASHES
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2018
  11. Kris Ford

    Kris Ford Senior Member

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    Just a word of caution..
    [​IMG]
    These are EPI spaced (and are for Epis, not real Gibsons..)and may give you fitting problems..don't drill extra screw holes..you just might want to use Gibson rings...
     
  12. Kris Ford

    Kris Ford Senior Member

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    Cool story..but I really think you could have just used a different bridge to notch for the string spacing...many were made with this spacing with zero issues..
     
  13. JohnnyN

    JohnnyN Old School Premium Member

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    All due respect Kris, but I think you're wrong here. Epiphone pickup rings are wider and the corner hole spacing is 83,5mm. The 81,5mm spacing fits Gibson, although it may not be 100% accurate to the inch and a fraction :)
     
  14. Kris Ford

    Kris Ford Senior Member

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    Right on..but curved rings ARE an EPI thing..(and no knock to Epi..) Gibson rings are flat and conform to the top. WHy U no use proper part DarrellV? :D

    I did check the set I had, and the holes do seem to line up.. but the curved ring is an Epi trait. The curved set is SLIGHTLY larger,,but not much..

    You are correct, I recall I gave a set of Gibson rings to my buddy for his Epi LP, and they were smaller.:cheers:
     
  15. Who

    Who I'm back. Back in the New York groove.

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    Thanks for the detailed thread, Darrell.

    I'm curious... why didn't you try to unwax the Shaws? I would think, worst case, you'd have to head down the road you headed.

    Best case, you're happy with the results, but always wondering.... "is there still residue in there, keeping one of those winds from vibrating?".
     
  16. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Ok, Help a brother out here, Kris! I found these in creme and at the PLS that everyone recommends. They were listed under Gibson parts, so how is a fellow to know? I do want the correct ones, so now I am glad I put these up here! :thumb:

    I want to change them because mine are fatigued and bowing outward. Especially the bridge ring.


    Are there no suppliers of curved rings? I can do the whole sanding routine if I must, but is this really all that's available? :dunno:

    This is my first and only Lester, so noobness is showing ! Please feel free to suggest so I don't go down the wrong path! :dude:

    That's the main reason I joined last year, LOL!!!!

    I would like to keep it as correct as possible, I'm not trying to go all cheap or import knockoffs if i can help it.

    I thought the PLS had the good stuff, shows what I know! :facepalm:
     
  17. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    I want to!!!! I want to!!!!



    Nooooooobnes!!!!!!! :bowdown:bowdown
     
  18. Kris Ford

    Kris Ford Senior Member

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    Well..as @JohnnyN pointed out..they'll fit, but I had mixed my facts up a bit..as long as the holes line up, you're good..BUT I have noticed where these become a problem is pickguard fitting..but one way to find out!! (I knew there were 2 sizes, Gib and Epi..not interchangeable!) No need to sand the curve, just screw 'em in slowly, and repeat an day or 2 later..

    Hey, I even have a Gibson set..they're yours..PM your addy, and I will send out tomorrow.
     
  19. Kris Ford

    Kris Ford Senior Member

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    Your original rings are M-8s..and they have no screw tunnnel..which could be why the bow.
    I will send you a M-69 set (on me) that will replace them perfectly and won't bow like they do..
     
  20. DarrellV

    DarrellV About as sharp as a bowlin' ball! Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    I agree, but it seems to be typical of my luck to run into stuff like this....

    I just chalked this one to one of those Gibson quirks that go with being handmade.

    When I first got it and tried playing it I was having trouble with the string spacing. I kept missing the strings by over reach. Just a little.

    I had been playing my MIM Strat for years before this and apparently my muscle memory was used to that spacing.

    It was then while looking to increase the string spacing to help my playing that I noticed that on mine, the high E string was well in from the edge of the fret board.

    I mean a lot, like 3/16 or so from the 16th fret down. The low E was also in board a bit from the edge.

    You can see the Low E is in board with this shot taken right after i got it. Still has old frets...

    Kinda visible here too

    The nut spacing seemed fine. The bridge was center notched, but clearly the strings had room to move and be actually centered down the neck from nut to saddle.

    So I did the math and bought new saddles and went about notching them to the new distance needed just to even out the string space from the edge of the neck, all the way down.

    I got lucky that it turned out to be a standard 53MM. I didn't plan on that at all. I just eyeballed where the strings needed to be for symmetry.

    I am much more comfortable with the spacing now and I find I don't have to hold back or guess so much anymore where my pick lands. It is much more of a natural fall onto the strings for me, and switching between the two guitars is easy too!
     

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