spraying a stinger

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by hamerfan, Sep 16, 2017.

  1. hamerfan

    hamerfan Senior Member

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    Jun 19, 2010
    I shaved the neck of 50ies Tribute studio LP to nice V type neck shape. Really comfortably for my smallish hand. I'd like to rattle can nitro the neck with a black stinger on a clear neck. I read a lot of threads on forums about stingers, but never how to form the tape to get a nice stinger shape. My first effort was real crumpy, so i ripped off the tape. Can any give me an advise or post a pic how to tape?
  2. Who

    Who I'm back. Back in the New York groove.

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    Mar 15, 2012
    The advice below I give as a non-pro. I've only ever worked with rattle cans.

    Use pinstripe tape first. Very flexible, and it gives a good edge. Then, use painters tape to mask, overlapping the painters tape onto the pinstripe about 50%.

    Then, shoot a fine coat of the clear you will use for the neck on the taped-off headstock. This ensures no black will bleed under the edge of your tape. If there is any bleed at this step, it's clear nitro and will disappear later.

    While you're at it, take a piece of scrap wood (like a 1x3) and run layers af tape on it, like a zebra. Maybe 7 or 8 stripes. This is your test board. Shoot the clear on here, too.

    Paint the headstock with your black. Whatever you do to the guitar, do the same to your test board.

    Once you have enough black.... it's decision time. Do you want to sand the black while still taped, or remove the tape? This is where the test board comes in. You can experiment a little.

    I'd probably sand with 600 or 800 wet, to ensure the black can be smoothed, without burning through it. Then spray more black on top.

    Now back to the test board. How are we going to remove the tape? Your options are "wet" or "dry".

    Pull off one of your stripes with the board dry. If it comes off clean, and you like the result, do the guitar next.

    If anything goes wrong, shoot a slightly wet coat of black on the board. Peel the tape while this coat is wet. Examine the resulting edge. You'll get a feel for what you want to do.

    Maybe, on this wet-coat, shoot clear to get it wet, then peel the tape. You will find what works best for the tape you used, and the paint you used. That's why we made so many stripes on the test board.

    Now go about your business with the clear. Take care on how you decide to sand the edge where the black ends. Because of the thickness of the black, you can cut through your clear, when sanding here.

    With rattle-can clear, you are going to need a lot of coats if your goal is to feel no edge at this transition. By a lot, I mean 20-40 clear coats. Rattle can clear is super-thin.

    Don't buy Deft.
  3. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    Mar 18, 2007
    Some good info by Mr. Who.....and some less than good info.
    First, yes....pinstripe tape for a clean edge. The zebra test board is not a bad idea either.
    The advice about sanding the black is bad though. Never sand a colour coat...even if the edge ridge it leaves looks like it should be sanded. It does not need to be sanded.

    Here's my schedule:
    spray the entire area with clear coats, if there is any substrate colours spray them too and then seal with clear coats.
    Sand the clear back with 400 grit until all orange peel is smooth.
    Mask off your stinger with pinstripe tape and then overlapped with masking tape just the way Who described.
    Shoot the black. You wont need much, two light coats will probably do it. You don't need build, just coverage.
    If spraying nitro, peel the tape at a hard angle off after 30 minutes.
    Spray clear nitro...several coats until you have enough build.
    Wet sand. If there was still a bump of black ridge transition the wet sanding will take it out now.
    Who likes this.
  4. Who

    Who I'm back. Back in the New York groove.

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    Mar 15, 2012
    Freddy, thanks for the pro advice.

    I just realized, @hamerfan might not be considering doing a clear-coat on the neck, and instead just adding the stinger. Depends on how we read the post.

    Thanks for the tip on not sanding the color. I thought that was only critical on metallic colors. I was thinking, for beginner, this is the point where you want to be able to remove the orange peel (so you'd know for sure you won't need to build up a lot of clear on top).

    Hamerfan, since this is your guitar, maybe go though the entire process on a test board. That's what I did for my first time. I'll backpedal on the advice for 20-40 clear coats. Maybe dial that back to 12+. Erring on the side of thinner coats.

    I still have the test board from my first rattle-nitro job from five years ago. It's interesting to see how it has aged and yellowed on the different layers.

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