RS Guitarworks [merged]

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by mjarema414, Dec 30, 2007.

  1. Laservampire

    Laservampire Senior Member

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    Just ordered a vintage style RS kit with Luxe Bees for my R6 , can't wait for it to arrive!

    Should sound amazing with my new Lollar P-90s :fingersx:
     
  2. Horse

    Horse Senior Member

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    :thumb: wow, that will be killer dude!

    How cool to read about Jimbo's project and see how happy he is,good stuff!
     
  3. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    I am very happy about it all, deffo. Well Hillbilly I checked and red and white wires are where you say. I must have connected the actual braded wire on the poickups the wrong way round! lol.. no matter i will switch em around correctly. :=)
     
  4. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    Well thats fixed.. i un soldered the pickups and swapped em around, now bridge is bridge and neck is neck.. top/bottom. I have a bit of buzz when im using a few high gain patches on my podxt live, it goes away when I touch the bridge or anything in the control cavity. maybes my grounding could be better? still very pleased though.
     
  5. Horse

    Horse Senior Member

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    Maybe a dry joint there mate?
     
  6. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    Hmm maybes? how would i know where though? it goes completly away when I touch anything other than a cap in there. And does anyone know a way of getting old solder of a back of a pot? ive un soldered the wire from the bridge and re done it and theres a bit of a mess on the back now. But hey still massive thumbs up for RS! :)
     
  7. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    Well guys on further investigation it seems to be my Fender superchamp XD amp and not the guitar! I tryed my unmodifyed Gibson classic antique and again a buzz until i touch the bridge. Also tryed a Burny LP and same. I treid different power outlets but more or less the same. I tryed different guitar cables without success too.

    Gonna buy some planet waves cables to see if it makes any difference, but I doubt it. Its either my amp or my house. Wont stop me enjoying the new improved standard faded, next up its the classic antiques turn. I think I will try a different kit, but im not sure what yet? I wanna get close as I can to that 59 LP ssound, maybes HillBilly can help?
     
  8. hillbilly

    hillbilly V.I.P. Member

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  9. nuance97

    nuance97 Premium Member

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    I installed the new kit last week, and I've had plenty of time to test drive it. Wow, what a difference! The taper of my pots is no longer completely useless! I do think the modern neck setup with the vintage bridge kit was the ticket. It really did un-muddy the neck p/u. Thanks for your help and very quick turnaround!:dude::applause::laugh2:
     
  10. hillbilly

    hillbilly V.I.P. Member

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    Great, I'm glad that worked out well for you. :cheers: :h5:
     
  11. silverfrost1

    silverfrost1 Senior Member

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    Took me 6 days, but I got the Modern Kit to work. I removed all OEM electronics from this Epiphone LP Standard. I installed Switchcraft jack and toggle. I used genuine Gibson knobs, but one of them broke. Only one seated all the way on the pot shaft. Also used indicator washers (see pic).

    I should have kept the original OEM toggle. There was nothing wrong with it, and it is a bit smaller than the Switchcraft, which has a very meaty grounding lug that takes forever to heat up with a soldering iron. After installing everything, the output was shorting out somewhere: it proved to be the jack lug on the toggle switch, which shorted every time it touched the black shielding paint in the toggle switch cavity. I insulated the switch by lining the cavity with aluminum tape (used in HVAC ductwork). Problem solved.

    I despise the metal braided wire everyone raves about. I will never use this inefficient stuff again. It took forever to solder these to ground. PVC shielded wire is fine. Its easy to solder. BTW, soldering the Switchcraft toggle to three braided wires the old fashioned way, in an Epi LP, is a bad idea. There is no room in the cavity if you follow the RSG photo of their pre-wired toggle kits. I got it to work after re-soldering a few things.

    I was afraid the Modern Kit would make my LP too harsh, but luckily it sounds quite nice. I now have a neck tone pot that functions. There is an added dimension to the tone that is difficult for me to describe. I'm still playing around with it, and experimenting on different amps and settings. Next project is to install Manlius Hot Rod 59s. I want to try a hotter PU than the OEMs. Thanks to tech support at RS: they gave me plenty of helpful tips.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. hillbilly

    hillbilly V.I.P. Member

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    What wattage soldering iron were you using? If you employ proper soldering technique, a 40w iron is plenty hot enough to solder grounds. :hmm:
     
  13. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    I found that my 30w soldering iron was absolutely fine but, it depended on the tip i used on it. I bought a few different tips for my iron and found the finer pointed one where great for melting the little terminal lugs.. but when it came to a big lump (exaggaration) like the grounds have, forget it, you would be there all day. I switched tip to a flatter type and instant result. So the tips also play a big part in the overall operation.

    So thats just my 2 cents, as you Americans say.
     
  14. silverfrost1

    silverfrost1 Senior Member

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    I used a 30 watt. I did not want to wait for a 60W that was in the mail, which arrived a day after I finished the project. Chisel point, not needle point.
     
  15. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    Hey everyone hope your all well. I just recived a new 3 wire braided switch...

    [​IMG]

    from RS yesterday and am having a bit of bother connecting it to the jack. Im a bit confused here??

    What I have done is wire the middle wire (labeled Jack) connection to the Hot terminal on the jack. Then I have tried to wire the braide or shield of the rest of the wire to Ground? on the Jack here...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Problem is it keeps cutting out and im not sure this is the way to wire it anyway?? its also a bit of a humm wise noiseyer than my other kit on my standard faded.. I used the existing switch in there. can somone tell me what im doing wrong?

    Or maybes Hillbilly can help me please? (im sending back the short shaft kit you sent me mate) Mucho thanx.
     
  16. Jimbo

    Jimbo Senior Member

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    Ive just re-done it with better success! wired up hot and braided on the back of the ground lug. It was cutting out cos it was touching the bare brade on the inside of the jack.. didnt get the shrink wrap pused all the way down. Anyway I used Electrical tape around the exposed bit and its sweet! no more cut outs. :)
     
  17. hillbilly

    hillbilly V.I.P. Member

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    Looks like you got it. The braid was touching the '+' of the jack, causing a short. Just push the braid back until it's about even with the '-' of the jack, and solder. Then you won't need electrical tape. :cool:
     
  18. V!N

    V!N Senior Member

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    Is there any way I can make the RS pots turn easier ? I'm in the midst of overhauling my Warmoth Tele and I have various Super Pots to try in there, using gator clips first to see which one works best.

    Volume swells while are key to my style and I'd like to be able to do still do that after the overhauling.
     
  19. hillbilly

    hillbilly V.I.P. Member

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    We have CTS make the SuperPots with the lowest turning torque that CTS offers.

    You can spray some electrical contact cleaner ($3 at Radio Shack) in the pots, and give 'em a twist, and they will turn easier.

    Over time, they will loosen up. :cheers:
     
  20. Goldtop75

    Goldtop75 Senior Member

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    Hey Billy,

    Recently I swapped the poups out of a Les Paul myself, and I think I sort of damaged an RS Superpot. I THINK. The leg connected to the tonepot and the pickup loses contact with the rest of the pot if I push it one way, and maintains contact if I push it the other way. Does this mean the pot os a goner? Do I need to replace it? i've more or less solved it by shoving a folded cardboard between the 2 legs, forcing the dodgy leg to be pressed in the right direction to maintain contact. Could this be due to expansion of the leg itself during soldering, and now that it's cold, it should contract back to normal? Or is it permanently busted? It wasn't like that before I did the pup work.
     

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