Rescuing another broken headstock guitar. $30 Epi SG Craigslist find

Discussion in 'Other Epiphones' started by Who, Jul 3, 2016.

  1. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    Spline-time.

    I modeled my splines after the ones BCGgreg makes, right down to how I labeled them.

    Tools used: Cheapie table saw, "Mouse" palm sander 9not all that useful for small parts you're holding in your hand) and some 180 grit sandpaper.

    I adjusted the fence on the tablesaw, and cut scrap until I got the thickness I wanted. The spline on the bass side needs non-parallel sides, so it gets cut thick and needs a lot more hand-sanding.

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    Along the bottom of the route, and alongside the beak-line I get a nice snug fit. In other places, not as snug due to poor router technique, and not rounding the ends of the splines perfectly.

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    Click below if you just want to see more pics of the spline fit. I won't put them all in-line with the post.
     

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  2. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    Cleaned up everything with acetone. Let it dry, gobbed on Titebond Original this time (T II was used on the break. I bought a new bottle for the splines).

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  3. Mike's_LP

    Mike's_LP Senior Member

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    Very cool! :applause: And I'm laughing with you, as I've had my own router mishaps during my self-taught carpentry and furniture... Explorations! :laugh2:

    Like you said, it's a great project for 30 bucks. The best advice I can give is; (Though you seem to know this already) Make sure your guides (and all bracing) are sturdier than sturdy, and the router bit is SHARP. :thumbs:
     
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  4. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    Time for more updates.

    Splines are done. The glue-job worked fine. The little gaps don't seem like they will be a problem.

    Progress pics.

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    The brown glop you see is Titebond and sawdust, to fill missing chunks. You'll see that a lot in the next few pics.


    How I sanded (for anyone who reads this thread to try this yourself):

    Sharp chisel down to within 3-4mm from the neck. This was as far as I dared to go with a chisel (no chisel experience for anything other than doing door hinges).

    I then moved on to sandpaper, but realized that would take all day. I switched to a Dremel with a spiral bit (http://www.harborfreight.com/18-In-High-Speed-Steel-Spiral-Cut-Bits-3-Pc-61633.html). On slow speed, it worked well for controlled shaving of the wood.

    Then I moved on to 180 grit, 220, and finally 320. The 320 was used mainly on the CA fill lines.

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  5. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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  6. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    Here it is, all sanded down, and to the point where I just don't want to do any more sanding or filling.

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  7. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    I still don't know what I'm going to do to finish this when I'm done. but for now, I shot a mist of DupliColor paint ( I have a dozen or so red cans I bought at the dollar store years ago).

    Let's see how smooth this will look.

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    CRAP. See that little missing chunk between the splines. I told myself I was done sanding, and wasn't going to be bothered by this. I'm bothered by it.

    More CA is in there now. It's drying, so we'll have to wait for the next installment of this thread.
     

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  8. judson

    judson Senior Member

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    i bet you could hit that with a rubber mallet and it would not break again...those splines sure as heck wont break....i would like to hear some of the members that have done quite a few of these to comment....since i dont know better, i think you did a great job for a playable fix....as for appearance i dont put alot into that...its just dressing on any guitar so i stand by any guitar that is playable but not pretty

    my buddies kid me as my standards are the same to women some nights depending how many beers have been consumed...:laugh2:

    i appreciate all your photos of the work as i know in the future i will be attempting such a feat when i find a bargain neck break and have the time to try it....

    final pics would be great


    btw what is CA ?
     
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  9. garweft

    garweft Senior Member

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    That was like watching someone fall off a cliff and land on their feet.

    In other words, it turned out better than I thought it was going to.
     
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  10. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    CA is "super glue" (Cyanoacrylate).



    The "razor blade trick" is excellent, and what I used here.
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2017
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  11. JMon

    JMon Senior Member

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    @Who, you totally kicked butt on that repair. Helluva job.
     
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  12. Brians Evil Twin

    Brians Evil Twin Poophoria Sōtō Zen V.I.P. Member

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    Yeah, nice job.

    :yesway:
     
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  13. Alligatorbling

    Alligatorbling ★AstroCat★ Premium Member V.I.P. Member MLP Vendor

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    Who does good work
     
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  14. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Senior Member

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    Good job! Great to see this kind of thing from beginning to end.
     
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  15. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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  16. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    The final installment. You'll see imperfections, but I'm fine with the "character". I did nothing to seal the new wood (splines), so we can see grain and there are still fine lines where the new wood meets the old.

    The paint is DupliColor. I didn't give a great deal of thought over what shade I used. I had some old cans. I picked one that had a cap color slightly darker than the guitar.

    I had no intention of matching the guitar. I planned to try to blend, with thin mists as we get away from the repair. I'm happy with the result.

    I also didn't work to try to match the satin finish of the neck. That will sort itself out as it gets played.

    On to the pics:

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    Last edited: Oct 17, 2017
  17. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    [​IMG]

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  18. Who

    Who Who is not here. Please leave a message.... Premium Member

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    More
     

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  19. lowatter

    lowatter Senior Member

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    Not too shabby! I bet it will hold just fine. Now, naturally relic it!
     
  20. Troy McClure

    Troy McClure Senior Member

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    Looking good, just remember everyone is a learning curve so for a first fix with splines you've gotta be pleased with the outcome.

    I've seens fixes done where the splines have been hidden by taking down the level and gluing on a veneer then sanding level, you'd be hard pushed to detect some of those fixes. Seen the same technique used to avoid witness lines showing from from filled routs too.
     

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