This is a thread about removing weight from my Les Paul. Didnt take any pictures along the way , as I didnt plan to write about it. But , there are many threads different places on the web where people ask about putting a Les Paul on a diet. Most of the threads gets filled up with the usual " not worth it " , " man up !" , " use helium in the control cavity " etc... Also , the threads quickly starts being more about tone changes. Its also very hard to find out about the weight of individual parts , even from vendors. I will list all the weights I measured along the way..... I could easily play the guitar as it was , but , we mod stuff , dont we ? The mods I did were all done with the weight in mind ,not tone , you decide if you want to do something like it to your guitar. The Guitar : A 2005 Les Paul Studio , in a wonderful yellow color , was originally white , with ebony fretboard. Not used much , did the usual setup to my liking , levelled the frets etc. It was a bit heavier than my other Studios at 9.3 pounds , or 4255 grams. Removing weight takes a lot of work , but I guess I have a bit of experience from racing vehicles where you are used to getting rather big results from all the different small things you can do. The parts , and some of the work , hardware : Removing the pickguard and pu covers is a no brainer. Apart from that , an alu tailpiece , lighter bridge and studs can be bought. The 2005 model uses a grounding/assembly plate in the control cavity , this was removed , and new CTS pots were mounted directly , as in the old days. I used a Pinnacle Aluminum Nashville bridge , couldnt find many bridges in Alu out there. It cost a bit of money , but the one on the guitar was one of the rattly ones , didnt feel solid. I used locking studs for both bridge and tailpiece , like Faber. Extra locking collars are provided with the locking ABR bridge I used on a different guitar.I needed metric they were inch. No biggie to run a 4 mm tap through there , free locking collars. I used the Faber threaded studs , these are sold seperately. You tap the old holes from the Nashville studs with an 8 mm tap. On the tailpiece , I used alu bolts , and removed the usual ring , so that I could lock the tailpiece. I already had some of the rings in different heights laying around from earlier , these are also sold seperately. Since I topwrap , not that important anyway. My goal was to remove half a pound ( 222 grams ) just taking away stuff , or use lighter parts.