Refret Tutorial

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Freddy G, May 8, 2011.

  1. dickjonesify

    dickjonesify Senior Member

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    I love this thread. I have a guitar, my main player actually, that badly needs a refret. I may actually take this on myself :shock: We shall see.

    Thanks for being a valued member of this fine establishment, Freddy :h5:
     
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  2. frankencat

    frankencat Senior Member

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    Thanks Freddy!
     
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  3. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Senior Member

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    Just a point of data. My fretless Fender Jazz bass came from the factory much like that 4001 bass, but much cleaner finished. I'm not sure it was frets ground down or just thin metal stock or what.

    Also most Epi Les Pauls are actually 14" radius. If you're trying to level frets with a sanding block and it's 12" and it's taking down the sides more than the middle, you need a higher number radius block not lower. The radius on the Epi LP Special I is 16" btw.
     
  4. salavarda

    salavarda Junior Member

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    Nice tutorial. Thank you!
     
  5. BR-549

    BR-549 Senior Member

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    Thank you for sharing your skill. Very interesting and informative and you have a unique way of teaching which holds interest.
    I have an older LP copy that I may refret now just for the learning experience.
    Bravo Freddy.
    :cool:
     
  6. Frack

    Frack Member

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    Thanks Freddy for this tutorial,

    I use the truss rod to make a very slight back bow, this "opens" the slots and release the frets a lot, removing them is 10x easier after that & it reduces a lot the risk of chipping too.
    It takes more time as i let the neck seat after every 1/4 turns though.
    I've never seen anybody mentioning a truss rod adjustment in a refret tutorial is there something wrong with this practice ?
     
  7. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    Hey Frack,

    Yes, that's a great technique. Thanks for mentioning it!
     
  8. Frack

    Frack Member

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    Thanks for the reply, and glad to be useful.
     
  9. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Senior Member

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    So Freddy G,
    You stated that you used fret wire from Warmoth that was pre-radiused, but according to them, they only provide it with the natural curve of it coming off the spool. So that's kind of a crap shoot? If I were to purchase pre-cut and pre-radiused stainless frets from a place like Philadelphia Luthier, should I get them a tad "over radiused" at say, 10" radius for a 12" radius fretboard, or just order at 12" radius and hope they're accurate?
    Thank You,
    Gene
     
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  10. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    Hey Gene,

    Most fretwire comes coiled in a 17" -18" diameter. That's perfect for a 9.5" radius neck. If you're doing a flatter radius I would simply run it through a fretbender set to expand the radius.
     

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