Refret Tutorial

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Freddy G, May 8, 2011.

  1. dickjonesify

    dickjonesify Senior Member

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    I love this thread. I have a guitar, my main player actually, that badly needs a refret. I may actually take this on myself :shock: We shall see.

    Thanks for being a valued member of this fine establishment, Freddy :h5:
     
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  2. frankencat

    frankencat Senior Member

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    Thanks Freddy!
     
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  3. ScottMarlowe

    ScottMarlowe Senior Member

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    Just a point of data. My fretless Fender Jazz bass came from the factory much like that 4001 bass, but much cleaner finished. I'm not sure it was frets ground down or just thin metal stock or what.

    Also most Epi Les Pauls are actually 14" radius. If you're trying to level frets with a sanding block and it's 12" and it's taking down the sides more than the middle, you need a higher number radius block not lower. The radius on the Epi LP Special I is 16" btw.
     

  4. salavarda

    salavarda Junior Member

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    Nice tutorial. Thank you!
     

  5. BR-549

    BR-549 Senior Member

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    Thank you for sharing your skill. Very interesting and informative and you have a unique way of teaching which holds interest.
    I have an older LP copy that I may refret now just for the learning experience.
    Bravo Freddy.
    :cool:
     

  6. Frack

    Frack Member

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    Thanks Freddy for this tutorial,

    I use the truss rod to make a very slight back bow, this "opens" the slots and release the frets a lot, removing them is 10x easier after that & it reduces a lot the risk of chipping too.
    It takes more time as i let the neck seat after every 1/4 turns though.
    I've never seen anybody mentioning a truss rod adjustment in a refret tutorial is there something wrong with this practice ?
     

  7. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    Hey Frack,

    Yes, that's a great technique. Thanks for mentioning it!
     

  8. Frack

    Frack Member

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    Thanks for the reply, and glad to be useful.
     

  9. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Senior Member

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    So Freddy G,
    You stated that you used fret wire from Warmoth that was pre-radiused, but according to them, they only provide it with the natural curve of it coming off the spool. So that's kind of a crap shoot? If I were to purchase pre-cut and pre-radiused stainless frets from a place like Philadelphia Luthier, should I get them a tad "over radiused" at say, 10" radius for a 12" radius fretboard, or just order at 12" radius and hope they're accurate?
    Thank You,
    Gene
     
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  10. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    Hey Gene,

    Most fretwire comes coiled in a 17" -18" diameter. That's perfect for a 9.5" radius neck. If you're doing a flatter radius I would simply run it through a fretbender set to expand the radius.
     

  11. rednefceleb

    rednefceleb Senior Member

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    Hi F.G. Anyone with twice as many 'likes' than 'messages' has to know what he is doin'. Thanks for this lesson on refretting which I have always thought of as an <unreachable magic>.
     
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  12. Roxy13

    Roxy13 Senior Member

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    Hi, thanks so much. I've watched these on youtube several times before I joined this forum. How cool you are a member here, plus you assisted in my recent thread about my G string buzz high up the neck. Members like you are invaluable to members like me, and I want to express how grateful I am.
     

  13. rednefceleb

    rednefceleb Senior Member

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    Wow. This the best forum by far that I've ever joined. No disrespect from anyone. Yeah, I have some cheap 'OLP'S' to begin my fretting world. An MM1 and an MM4. Actually, I have worked on the setups on these alot, you cannot get a credit card under the strings <anywhere>. I have been on a BBBBudget so have learned alot about how to "beat cheap guitars into subsission." Paz. They sound pretty good too!
     
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  14. rednefceleb

    rednefceleb Senior Member

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    It's amazing just how many new and intermediate guitarists don't have a clue on setting up. Using the truss rod is so important to get that neck either flat or with a little 'relief' around frets 7 & 9. I prefer flat. Then string height. Follow the radius with that <Fenders>. Then intonate the heck out of it. It's a shame trying to climb the neck on an un-intonated unit.
     

  15. redking

    redking Senior Member

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    @Freddy G I have a nice new Warmoth strat neck that is beautifully fretted, and I want to drizzle some water thin CA down the ends of the fret slots as you have demonstrated. When I did this with my Precision necks, there was a little pin hole to carry the glue down the slot and it worked out great. This Warmoth neck is so beautifully fretted, there is no visible gap under the tang - is it likely the CA will still find a way down the slot from the end even if its not visible with the naked eye? Thanks!
     

  16. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    They probably filled the gap under the tang. So it, likely won't wick in. You could try wicking it in from the edge of the fret bead like my video.
     
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  17. redking

    redking Senior Member

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    Thanks Freddy. I will give it a shot on fret #22 first and see how it goes!
     

  18. redking

    redking Senior Member

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    I'm glad I did a bit more research before trying to wick in CA glue. Warmoth already applies CA glue during the fretting process so it is not required. They also bevel AND roundover the fret ends which I was not aware either - although when I was looking at the fretboard last night (without my glasses... lol) it looked like they were rounded over but I thought... "Nah, they wouldn't do that for the price of this neck" I was wrong!
    http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/Fretwork.aspx
     
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