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Discussion in 'Historics & Reissues' started by alnico59, Dec 11, 2017.
nibs are way overrated, I love that my CC8 came without them from the factory
Fret edges dressed, new bone aged nut cut. Check out the natural mojo aging on the headstock! Sorry for the blurry pic.
Hell yeah, looking really good!
Those 110/53 frets are tall! Didn't realise.
I’m stupid. If you want to improve contact between the bottom of the studs and the wood of the top, there are numerous ways to do that, like dropping in a correct length of metal rod, without the excessive and intrusive, and IMO overly obsessive need to yank and drill. IMO increasing contact w the top majes sense, drilling into the mahogany does not.
They are. Same one's on my '14 R8 below. Installed by the same luthier. Love 'em!
Yes, I like tall, quite fat frets too. For me, they play better: easy bends and fast runs. I struggle on with the stock R9 though... In preference to a TH
Here's a photo showing the installation process of the above frets:
Here's (hopefully) some better pics of the nut and frets. Neck is very comfortable. Reads out at .82-.86
What were the neck measurements before the makeover?
Just wondering how much wood HM removed.
I've got an R7 neck I'm considering reshaping.
Not a HM. No wood removed or refinishing involved. Everything you see is honest wear. I'm just doing some basic mods and repairs such as taller frets, bone nut, new vintage harness, pots, caps, pickups and tuners. Thanks for stopping by.
My bad.. mixing up two different threads.. don't mind me..
Those cracks on the finish looks great too.
Like me, the guitar spent the majority of it's life up in the northeast. Now it's taking shelter down in the deep south!
Looking at all it's wear, the original frets were still there and not as worn as one would think? Also the neck is straight with no funny business going on.
The great thing is I didn't have to pay extra for the aging!
Those natural aging is just gorgeous.
Maple Flame Top Mod completed. 6-32 X 1 1/2 316 Stainless steel screws installed deep enough so that they bottom out in the existing factory drilled holes. Then trimmed to height. The bridge shown is the original and is for demonstration purposes only. I have a Creamtone aged non-wired ABR-1 that will be used in the final setup. Mod necessary as factory bridge studs were too short for the new taller frets. Plus they were able to be turned by hand with no steel to wood contact.
Speaking about these specs made me think of a 1974 Gibson Les Paul Custom I used to own. Back in the late 1980's I asked my Luthier if he would replace all the worn out hardware and replace with "genuine" Gibson Parts. Well everything worked out except he had to "pull" out the tailpiece bushings as the threads were different than the replacement bushings. Here's what he found. He has this picture hanging over his work bench because of how strange it is. Check out the pic.
That's the right way to do it IMO... bottom the studs out, but don't drill into the Mahogany. Nice!
I've heard from a couple of people who said that using stainless steel posts resulted in too bright of a sound. So it's been suggested that if this happens, that you switch to nickel plated brass posts of the same length (and depth).