Phaez V2-cutter

Discussion in 'The Squawk Box' started by V2, May 15, 2013.

  1. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    Hey All,

    A while ago I built a 10-watt Daisycutter from Randy's excellent kit. It started to evolve a bit with a few tweaks here and there, until I reached a point where I wanted to rebuild it. The new amp sounds like the original DC10 (as far as I can remember; I must compare to blues.juniors DC10 in the future) but sports a totally custom eyelet board that I designed and built. Since I can't claim that it is a Daisycutter at this point, I am going to refer to it as the V2-cutter.

    I must go back to do some testing and tweaking, but so far I am very happy with the outcome.

    Here is the new board in the beginning:
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    And here is the board after drilling and pounding in some eyelets.

    [​IMG]
     
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  3. Matty

    Matty Senior Member

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    Nice one. :thumb:

    What did you change about the DC? I know you did a triode switch and power scaling, did you redesign the circuit too? :hmm:
     
  4. Soul Tramp

    Soul Tramp Speaker Snob V.I.P. Member

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    Looks great. What did you use for board material?

    There's something fun and gratifying about building eyelet boards.
     
  5. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    So far I kept it pretty 'stock' actually. The pentode-triode switch is still there, and so the power supply has been modded to accommodate that. I took out the Fender-style standby switch, but I still might add an alternative standby or front-panel mute toggle. The existing standby switch position has been used as a signal-ground lift.


    Yes, it was fun to design and build. But now I have a problem: I cannot use stock stuff anymore...

    This board is 1/16" glass epoxy. I have thicker material as well, but I wanted to use the thinner stuff on my first build. And other than being brown, it worked out very well.
     
  6. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    A few parts fitted into the eyelet board. The yellow caps were from the original DC10.

    [​IMG]

    And a few more:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. Soul Tramp

    Soul Tramp Speaker Snob V.I.P. Member

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    Just a tip.... Keep the resistors elevated so they don't touch the board. This helps with heat dissipation which reduces hiss.
     
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  8. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    Thanks Don. The power resistors are elevated. The others are not, but most of those are 2-watt metal film.
     
  9. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    Here's the new board dropped into the DC10 chassis

    [​IMG]
     
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  10. Soul Tramp

    Soul Tramp Speaker Snob V.I.P. Member

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    That look like a Watts' chassis. Is Randy now using a high quality chassis or did you provide the blank.
     
  11. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    The DC10 kit came with this chassis. I think Randy uses smaller chassis for the most part now, and I'd actually like to use a larger one. So I'll purchase them from Watts in the future.
     
  12. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    Here it is wired up for initial testing. All grounds lead to what used to be a standby switch. The pentode-triode switch on the left was set on pentode at this point because I still needed to add some filtering up front.

    Something essential was missing, however. Can anyone spot it?

    [​IMG]
     
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  13. indigochild

    indigochild Senior Member

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    A cover?

    I'll quit bein' a smart ass. I have no idea, but do tell! :hmm:
     
  14. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    I forgot to install a grid leak resistor for the output tube. Lucky I caught that one before I fried something :)
     
  15. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    A couple of updates on the V2cutter:

    - I added some extra filtering in the power supply. In the photo below, the extra filtering is done by a capacitance multiplier mounted to the back panel. There are two immediate benefits: (1) no more single-end hum. Gone. I've also elevated the heater AC by 80 Vdc, so the heater hum is all but gone too. This amp is quiet as hell. (2) With a much cleaner DC power supply, I'm able to switch to triode mode for a very noticeable drop in volume, a tighter bass, and a darker overall tone. I had the MV up to noon and the gain up to 10 o'clock and it's not loud in triode.

    [​IMG]

    I also tweaked the circuit for a fantastic blackface tone. Gain at 10 o'clock, MV at noon, TMB all at noon. Strat style guitar with single coils. Great, powerful cleans. I must make this setting available on the front panel. It's like having a Corona and a Daisycutter in a single channel!
     
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  16. ac/dcfan87

    ac/dcfan87 Senior Member

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    That's awesome V2. I want to hear what that sounds like. I wish I had a triode switch on my JTM 10w. Mine is not that loud with gain and volume at noon. I mean loud but not overbearing. It would be nice to have triode to crank it a bit higher even and achieve a darker tone as well. Nice work! A corona and DC, that's pretty versatile.
     
  17. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    Thanks. I think it will be very versatile once I add a front panel toggle.

    Many people will point out that triode mode reduces volume by 'only' 3dB. I'll point out that a 3-dB cut corresponds to cutting the signal in half. It is VERY noticeable.

    Having said that, I still don't believe it is only 3B less. I must bring home my dB meter to test...

    I'll also make some sound clips after I have settled on a final design. My inability to record a good clip is on par with my lack-luster playing, so be prepared. Maybe I should fly out Rosco?
     
  18. George Jetson

    George Jetson Senior Member

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    Whatever happened to:

    [​IMG]
     
  19. V2

    V2 V.I.P. Member

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    The Denogginizer is still here - I haven't been able to part with it!
     
  20. ant_riv

    ant_riv Senior Member

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    Thanks for sharing the story of the progression.

    I'm looking forward to hearing clips!

    I love my JTM18+. I don't have any more amp GAS ever since getting it, but I would like to try another 'flavor'. A 'Fender-based' Phaez will probably be next.
     
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