Old Gretsch repair project

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Lou G., Nov 10, 2017.

  1. Leña_Costoso

    Leña_Costoso Senior Member

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    Check over at the Warmoth forum... those things are a bit of a pain in the ass, can break, and if you loosen 'em too much they're toast (parts fall off inside).

    Warmoth offers necks types with and without... I'll take without! A better solution, for truss rod, is the double expanding. But... those babys add weight, and some say they suck tone. I can't answer that one.
     
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  2. Mr.Fingers

    Mr.Fingers Member

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    Yes, on a bolt-on neck. It requires some substantial routing, but once installed, it works like a charm. Issue with this heel is that it tapers towards the bottom, where on a bolt-on neck, the sides are parallel. I have no idea if there is enough "flesh" towards the bottom of the heel though with your neck. It's a box of 27mm (w) x 17mm (l) x 15mm (d) IIRC.

    Since it's a neck with a separate fingerboard, you'll need a SAT-2.
     
    Last edited: Dec 6, 2017
  3. strömsborg

    strömsborg Member

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    What about putting in carbon fibre rods? Good enough for cowboy chords.
    Like this:
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2017
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  4. Lou G.

    Lou G. Member

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    I am usually a sucker for gadgets (looking at you robot guitar!) but I don’t think the side adjuster is right for this project. The carbon fiber rods might be a good compromise, but I am still leaning towards the trussrod adjustable at the headstock.
     
  5. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    If you get a low profile rod with Allen key adjustment you can minimize truss rod access size.

    Cheers Peter
     
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  6. lewita

    lewita Junior Member

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    amazing project! I personally would use the existing "truss rod" channel, maybe widen it a bit, or at least square the curved end of the slot, and then install a two way truss rod. Although it would require to make an access hole in the headstock, you can use an allen head truss rod, which wouldn't need such a big hole as a gibson style truss rod. You can even make a truss rod cover following the same "bolt" design the original overlay has if you mean to keep it as close to the original as possible.
     
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  7. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    I wish I would have thought of that! :rofl:

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  8. lewita

    lewita Junior Member

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    sorry! I missed your post!
     
  9. Lou G.

    Lou G. Member

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    Ok, you guys have convinced me! I am going to order a low profile Allen key truss rod today. Also hoping to make some progress on this project today.
     
  10. Mr.Fingers

    Mr.Fingers Member

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    Wouldn't it be possible to cut some sort of "trap-door" the headstock veneer, and have the trussrod adjuster underneath that "door". Have the "door" closed with some small magnets, and it's virtually invisible.
     
  11. Lou G.

    Lou G. Member

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    Finally got a little progress to report. Haven’t had much time lately, I should be able to get rolling again after the holidays. 134B699A-B87C-49EE-80EE-B5A924AFE6D2.jpeg 739C2553-7B8E-4FCB-8CD5-0C156618BF18.jpeg first I glued the filler strip on D48F578E-36F6-421B-87C9-C8AB6BE58A1D.jpeg C52872A1-430C-4B8C-8158-3A7A91E4A10C.jpeg then glued the two half’s back together 4523EEE1-9840-48D2-99B9-6CF950FF1DD6.jpeg made a filler strip of maple View attachment 280130 9059280E-B660-4282-9BA8-F9FADEE6E0D0.jpeg View attachment 280130 8EE04ACA-A002-41EC-8FBD-319E871989EA.jpeg Glued the filler in place of the metal bar. Next up rout the channel for the truss rod and then tackle the head stock repair. Any tips for the headstock repair?
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2017
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