New Epiphone les paul 20 quid

Discussion in 'Epiphone Les Pauls' started by jadedsoul, Aug 21, 2017.

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  1. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    Yo peeps....
    so i just got a brand new Lp standard for the 20 quid i lost of the Hondo2 Lp . so i bought a H2LP back bowed neck. truss rodd fully loose single action... in short... screwed. so sold it to pawn shop. cash converters. Wy did i leave in the Dimarzios and not swap them out for some amazon junk i dont know daft move anyway. 1973 model as well. so other day my mate rings me got a guy here selling guitar.. send me pics.. eyes pop out of head. its a epi LPS... How much i say.. Errrrr chatter. chatter, 20 QUID.. What..but there's a problem headstocks broke of... I took the pill and my bros mrs picked it up for me from Oxford road station, manchester.... so now im just waiting for my order of titebond original to arrive. She is lovely. Now im needing a new epi headstock faceplate. im wondering does anybody have a EPS of the faceplate. can the plate be made out of holly ? iv was goin to use plastic like the original... dremel out the epi bit and drop into new socket. also a wood face plate would give my break a little more strength. at the bottom where the break is. so yea EPi faceplate drawing EPS or paths from ps would work. anybody know of any good threads with glue up methods simila to mine. thanks for your time and help chaps. come on glue...arrive already. IMG_0863.JPG IMG_0866.JPG Picture 3.jpg Picture 9.jpg IMG_0864.JPG
     
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  2. fumblefinger

    fumblefinger Senior Member

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    Why not just fill the face plate crack, after repairing the break, with CA, sand level and buff?
     
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  3. B5Erik

    B5Erik Senior Member

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    So, what amounts to about $30 for an Epi LP? Even with the headstock broken off I don't think there's anyone here who would turn that deal down!

    Yeah, it needs some work, but that looks like a fairly clean break, so it shouldn't be a problem to fix. I'm always hesitant to buy a guitar with a neck/headstock break/repair, but for that price I wouldn't even think twice.

    Congrats! Just be careful to get the repair done right and you'll have yourself a nice LP!
     
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  4. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    Titebond has landed... now to figure the best caul system...I was thinking car filler around another neck with some wood blocks sunk in to give me something to grab onto...let it set and that can have nylon tied to it for some the lower neck support. I need a new face plate..
     
  5. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    Ok so iv clamped up the heastock best i can its a few hours and it still feels a little movable.. Iv never used titebond. does this stuff have gap filling properties? im hopeing that tomorrow with a warm air blower . blowing on it is should of gone of by then. my next option is to use 2 hardwood splines to remove any unglued cracks from that last fools attempt.
    Now i dont have a hand held tiny router. could those channels be done with a chisel ? for the splines. and my last thought is to do it like the gibson repair video where he splices in new wood and carves it back to shape. for me thst gona be the hardest to get the lengths and angles perfect... anybody share any thoughts on this. epi repair. new neck.jpg
     
  6. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    Heres whats left if all fails iv got to sand flat and at the correct angle to re glue back onto the fresh wood. A new ply faceplate will help aswell..
     

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  7. Dolebludger

    Dolebludger Premium Member

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    Jadel,

    I have never tried to fix a guitar break, but have used titebond to repair furniture. I does have some gap filling properties, but takes longer in gaps than where wood is in close contact, because the glue is thicker in gaps. To my experience, the bond isn't as strong in gap areas after drying.
     
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  8. Who

    Who are you? Who who who who.... Premium Member

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  9. fumblefinger

    fumblefinger Senior Member

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    My .02c.
    When I do a headstock I leave it in the clamps for 36 - 48 hours. Especially if I've had to thin the Titebond to use a syringe. You don't have a lot of mating surface for gluing. I'd definitely run a spline up there. I've done a spline using a drill press and then making the sides flat with a chisel and sanding. Make sure you use a forstner bit so the bottom is flat. The dremel bit I use caused a lot of sanding to get everything flat and perpendicular. See pics.

    Don't use heat to try to cure it! Heat allows the Titebond to release. That's why you use it to begin with, so if you hose it you can get it apart and correct the problem. Don't rush this, it will take some time to do right.
    IMG_1327.JPG IMG_1329.JPG IMG_1331.JPG IMG_1335.JPG IMG_1327.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2017
  10. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    Ok so i got it done.... it was fairly firm so i built up the back with CA and mahogany dust as it was thin. so i got to fixing the missing parts of the faceplate. black perm marker and CA till its high enough to sand back down flush to wet and dry and then polish. but i used my heater to fire of the CA.. when i picked it up it was loose again so iv re clamped it again. Have i screwed up the titebond heating it. or will it harden as it cools down. The wood is very thin just behind the truss rod channel. as i was putting pressure on with my finger from the back i could see the CA Moving. So its real thing there. ill build it back up with CA and wood fiber then sand to shape. as for spline. thats of the cards for now iv no router or dremel. I need to get some trigger clamps. im using g clamps with that wobly head end thing.. pain in the butt. why did i heat it up again ffs.. Im dying to play this thing. ok so its al set back up and i hope it hardens up again.
     
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  11. Who

    Who are you? Who who who who.... Premium Member

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    It won't harden "again", because the joint was never hard and stable in the first place.

    I had a similar thing happen to me when I did the one in the thread I mention above.

    Don't be afraid to pull it all apart, clean up the glue and start over. ANY movement in the joint means failure after you string it.
     
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  12. fumblefinger

    fumblefinger Senior Member

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    ^^^This!^^^
     

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