My two cents, and worth just that: Getting a neck "re-profiled" is always a pig-in-a-poke situation. Not for the truss rod issue, but more for the stress relief in the wood. That is to say... necks are profiled, then made flat on top, then the fretboard is applied. That keeps things more or less "flat" with the final product. When you remove wood from the back, after construction, you may be relieving stresses that alter the overall flatness, and trueness of the neck. That's to say, the bend may not be in any particular direction, and you may end up with a neck that veers off to the left or right, as well as twists. The above comes from Warmoth, btw, and really doesn't matter if you're neck is glued in or bolt on, nor the species or density of the wood. On the other hand..... all is not lost with the neck. Think of how the truss rod is situated into the neck. The tension is on the middle of the neck, under the fretboard. The back side of the neck is just fill space, no tension there. Not sure of the color of the neck, but, it may be able to be repaired with a filler strip, and solid color finish.