what do you use to measure strings height when setting up your les paul..is thier a really good tool out thier..i use a guage that is kinda hard to read, is thier a really good ruler that you would recommend where i can read the adjusment intervals in 64th's..?? thanks
I use a nickel under the 12th fret. Then I go from there, usually higher. I like my strings off the board some.
I usually adjust Gibsons by feel and playablility since the bridge already has a 12" arc. Just adjust the thumbwheel on each side. I usually adjust the bridge higher on the low E side so the wound strings ring out clearer. If string bends choke out, or you have excessive buzzing, raise the action. Of course before you start messing with the action, make sure to adjust the truss rod properly. On guitars like Fender with the individual adjustable saddles, I'll use a machinist ruler.
There are actually manufacturer suggested Numbers, But, I've yet to see anyone satisfied with those. It's your feel and playing style that matters. What you're comfortable with. If someones likes low action lower away without causing a fret buzz that you can hear through your amp . You'll be ok If you like High action, you may like a higher number than Gibson suggests. Lots of variables . For Slide , should be set high.
Lex makes good sense. Lex~ on fenders I always set the saddles to follow the neck radius. That means that the screws on each side of the saddles are never the same hight as the other .If you haven't tried it. Check it out. When I apprenticed a zillion years ago, I was taught this . It works out nicely . The bridge will actually look and feel like the radius of the board .Not steps as many do. ( You may notice the bass side is obviously higher) This will give you some extra fine tunning points . Lex you probably know this. For the others, I've shot some picts to illustrate the correct way to set up fender saddles.
What HZ said ! Damn HZ, I wish I could have said it that easy ! I wrote all of that crap and you come in and say it with 4 words !
I use feeler gauges because I have customers who insist on specific measurement.I need to keep records of these to repeat they're reqired set up. some need 0.9mm[.036''] at 12thfret treble E and 1.1mm[.044'''] at 12th fret bottom E. It's just easier for me than using a rule.I then check strings with an appropriate radius guage and adjust saddle heights with files to conform to that radius.
I was taught to keep the saddles level so the string doesn't slip around on the top of the saddle. Heights are adjusted to follow the radius of the fretboard, but the saddles themselves are level. Do you experience any string movement like this? Any advantage over keeping the saddle level?
No Slippage , more control over adjusting and the radius makes it nicer to play. Especially using your pick with chords.
i've always used a string guage, but it's hard to read accurately..so i was looking for maybe a good ruler of some sort that is very accurate in small intervals..i like to set my guitar to Gibsons specs, then adjust from their..usually i lower it a little..but i like to have a set base line to start with when adjusting my guitars for season changes..anyone know of a good ruler with small increments..??
Yes, StewMac catalogue, page 11 Item #0670 Price $18.95[string action gauge] This is just what you want Bryan .Other than that, a quality 6'' engineers steel rule with 64th increments.
So, I had to change strings on my Strat yesterday and I used the bridge setup you showed here. So far I like it! No string slippage that others warned me about, plays real nice. So far, so good!
I was talkin to my luthier buddy John bout neck straightness and set ups, and I told em I like my neck on Miss Honey Dead ass straight , and he said they ( Les Pauls ) rarely ever stay straight for too long without tweakin, I told em I did occaisonally tweak and always made sure it was straight when changing or adjusting string gauges ,He wanted to test Miss Honeys neck , the shop owner also had a hard time believing it was so straight so John dropped his Stu Mac neck gauge on it, and declared it laser straight If you dont have a decent amount of clearence, if you do get a minor bowing goin on , you might wind up with some dead spots and or some funky tones in various neck spots
I agree, if you go too near the limit of straightness of neck, action height and nut height, you'll be altering your setup every time the wind changes,or visiting your 'tech.Some folks just want to sail close to the wind.
Havin sailed a lil bit in my time, with real sails. I can tell ya that can get you in both bad straits and fustration too darn often
Here's a nice link to setting action. It's not the best but gives an idea on the 4 most popular bridges. Project Guitar :: String Height and Bridge Adjustment