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Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Ole'Lefty, Oct 23, 2010.
Bill-the "esoterica" is my fault-stands for "You Know Who." Part code and part humor. The other option was a modification to "SWMBO" She who Must be Obeyed-HWCNBM-was the alternative--"He Who Cannot Be Mentioned."
And I think we're being gracious by referring to him as that, and not "f@cking George"!
Did my post about selling my kit get deleted? Message me if anyone is interested.
I take it you wont be sending your kit to me to work on?
So I decided to replace my binding. It really sucked! Here's what I did:
1. I used a blade to score a line between the binding and the wood to prevent the wood from tearing out with the binding, and hopefully leave a clean line behind. This went fairly well
Then I used a carving tool to separate the binding from the wood. This really sucked, and seemed to take forever. In some spots the binding just peeled off in long pieces, but mostly I had to shave it off in little slivers. I had to use a heat gun in many places.
The sharp blade only slipped off the work a couple of times. I did not bleed, but there's one fairly significant gouge in the mahogany that I'll have to deal with.
When I was all done I was left with a relatively clean channel, and a pile of old binding bits (which, by the way, I'll offer to those of you who choose to repair the existing binding rather than replace).
This represents ~ 2 hours work so far.
That binding should have come off easily with acitone.
So I am guessing that this thread is like a support group for people that took a shot at a mass buy.
So far it does not seem too tragic considering the price that I hear was pretty low.
I could see some lemon aide coming out of this.
Ole'lefty is like a light house in rough seas.
Thanks for this generous offer!! I will PM you
I did the same thing as W666, and it was a major pain. Acetone had almost no effect on the binding itself or whatever type of glue they used.
My kit and a few other things are in the Members Classifieds guys..
This is what i am facing, from my clusterfuck G kit ( or YKW kit..)
I suppose alot of sanding and testing will be the only way in trying to resquare the tenon so the fretboard sits flat.
From what i can see, the bottom of the tenon sits in good and tight, but it is like the fretboard plane on the neck, and the underneath tenon plane were not parallel..
George must have personally inspected my kit very closely, as he did all the others
Mine sits better than that...but havent fooled with it much.
Trying to sell
Shaun-actually your neck situation is the ideal-if one has to deal with such. You said your tenon bottom is touching-and I see how little contact your FB is making with the top. This means you can adjust the bottom of the tenon and lightly scrape or file the borders of the mortise so as to drop your neck deeper into the mortise- clears up that heel airgap and allows a very solid "high-contact" set of the necessary neck angle for the bridge.
With waht others are reporting, their tenons make no contact at the bottom and have the excessive angle-so for awhile, they are adjusting airspace-or adding wood tho the bottom of the tenon to give wood to wood contact and then changing the angle. That "airgap" does make adjusting the border of the heel to body fit a very delicate process with almost no room for error, BUT-you can use marking compound(similar to the way machinists use "prussian blue") to evidence contact points. That is the safest way to eliminate gaps in the heel to body mating. DON'T use prussian blue sold for that purpose-it is essentially an artist's oil paint-lampblack in naptha works and won't pollute a surface that will require good glue adhesion on final assembly.
What Ole'lefty says will make it work but in my opinion that guitar will never be more than a display piece with it's almost perfectly flat sawn neck.
Sorry if that was too blunt.
Yeah that really is quite unfortunate... It really could be fixed though but it will take some drastic re-working.
Since I cannot change the pieces sent to buyers, I just offer solution options. Like many others, I was hoping for kits much better than Bulldog-and when compared to those, these YKW are marginal-neither kit is great- I know because I have one of the two truly fine quality kits for comparison.
Because of all the medical stuff coming along soon in my life, I will likely sell my YKW kit and might have to sacrifice my top quality kit as well-might even have to offer some major tooling too. I won't be walking and standing much in the near future and will not be allowed to drive for 6 weeks after the knee is replaced. I'm completing one project, finishing one final legal appellate brief, and then "holing up" in my little house after the surgery- before then, I want to get my self a good Custom to play while I am confined to home.
I would like to also complete around 3 flatbodied DELUXES before the knife but that doesn't look like it is in the cards. I also have the parts for two killer Partscaster Strats.
Just Smile and make lemonade, everyone!
The anger at George is certainly justified given the major problems popping up all around, BUT, nobody gains from repeating it-PLEASE!!!
Sorry to hear about your present situation ole'lefty.
I do not wish to rip scabs off of old wounds with this George character, I guess I should have read the whole thread and maybe I would have found out what has already been covered (too much cringing after the first couple of pages).
I would just hate to see somebody put in all of the required kit/project work only to pay more and end up with something that they could have bought 5 finished ones from Walmart.
It will at least be a lesson in "how not to build a guitar".
Good luck ole'lefty with the surgery and if there is anything I could do, you got my number.
Wish you best of lucky with the stuff you are facing Mike. Great to see that you are still offering help and guidance for those who need it.
But I gotta ask, what happened to your R2 (R6) plan? I saw you asking about it in historic forum some time ago.
I appreciate the bluntless. No point in sugar coating it.
By flat sawn, i assume you mean that the grain lines run horizontally, instead of vertical. If so, i also assume that the neck would be prone to twist sometime in the future?
So basically it is best to ether scrap/sell the whole thing, or get a new neck made?
The fretboard is ok, but is it easier to build the whole neck, or to remove the current fretboard and put that on a new neck (keep in mind the two tone binding issue - neck is white, body is yellow) ,and also Lefty mentioned that the fret scale is a bit longer than the usuall Gibson neck.
For the colour scheme i was going to go for (cherry red with black flames, and black plastic, i would prefer an ebony board, neck binding i can go either way with)
I just cant get over the shoddy workmanship on these kits, its like they had 7 months to build them, but waited until there was 1 week left and then rushed them through.
I suppose the old saying "you get what you pay for"....