Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes

Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Ole'Lefty, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. alexands

    alexands Junior Member

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    Well done Ole'Lefty! I couldn't find the link on their website.

    The stuff I have is the dyed black.

    Bossman has a piece set aside for him.

    I have shaped and glued mine and can sand it down if need be on the belt sander to get my thickness but it looked ok roughed together.
     
  2. w666

    w666 Senior Member

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    Hey Jaun7....My StewMac binding showed up today, but it's a little whiter than I would like, especially compared to the existing neck binding. (The fretboard, inlays, and neck binding w/nibs are all very nice, and I'm reluctant to change it).

    I'll keep looking for a closer match and post it if I find it.

     
  3. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Hey w666, have you compaired the binding on the neck with the binding on your GFS kit? When I compaired the binding on my GFS kit and "ykw" kit they matched. I know GFS says its a cream binding but I think its more of a ivory color. I know i'm reaching here but the binding is pretty damn close to my irovy colored couch.
     
  4. w666

    w666 Senior Member

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    The binding on my GFS kit is kinda sleezy looking, and only 3/16" tall. But i think ivory is the right match for my YKW neck. I've just ordered some of this:

    cheap ebay binding

     
  5. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    Ole' Lefty - is that Holly wood or the fiber? I'm looking at getting the router base from StewMac, I have a dremel tool now from a pawn shop, paid 35.00 for a 4000 model, was still in the box. -SCOTT
     
  6. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    how much? I might get one from you. Thanks, scott
     
  7. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    Don't know if the Lee Valley is holly-often this stuff is black dyed maple. The LMII is fiber. Everyone ought to take into account that these aren't replica kits, so, holly vs. maple, glue selections and similar construction decisions should just be made for a good, traditional appearing(if that is what you want) Les Paul knock-off-in the good sense, for personal use.

    These kits will make very nice guitars in most cases. They are not going to fool anyone for a moment(there are some folks on here who could accomplish that-not most of us). I have received a few questions from members on Tru-Oil(hereafter, TO) as a finish. I recommend it as low in health risk, low in failure rate and high in durability. It takes a bit more patience to do this, though the good nitro sprayers wait a good month before rubbing out. TO won't quite get to nitro gloss, but if done right, will have a high gloss.

    TO is mineral spirit based-shellac is alcohol based. Some of the good dyes for spray and rag app are alcohol based. TO won't affect them. Shellac is alcohol based and will, to a slight degree modify previously alcohol base stained/dyed wood, but might be a benefit because it can amalgamate the blend areas for colors in a burst. Shellac can go over TO, after the TO is thoroughly dry, but one cannot allow a pool of shellac to sit on TO- overtime with that concentration, degradation will happen. I only shellac over TO if it happens to be on binding I want to match up.TO has a MILD AMBER HUE-it says "vintage."

    I still recommend oil based grain pore fillers-I stand by many years of MinWax filler and they have a great red mahogany and some walnuts and oaks that warm mahogany but keep it looking like what it is.GET SOME SAME SPECIE SCRAPS AND PRACTICE ON IT. IF YOU DOUBT THAT PROS DO THIS, GET BETTER MEDICINAL GRADE WEED TO CLEAR YOUR ARTISTIC THINKING!!!!!!(THANKS CAL. AND AZ.) I frequent 2 very respected acoustic and broader luthier forums and I know that even Alan Carruth, Mario Proulx, Wayne Henderson,Linda Manzer and more "Try on scrap First!" They will pre-test different lot numbers of their routine finishes to make sure they will not see a non-historical result.

    I have done pre-64 Model 70 custom rifle-stocks valued at over $3000 with checkering and I tried my stains and oils on scrap first on all of them.

    Some other comments on another topic to follow.

    GLOSSARY

    TO = Tru-Oil
    ETH= ethanol=alcohol
    NITRO= any nitro-cellulose lacquer
    SHLC=shellac
    TOM=Tune-O-Matic
    TOPR=Tone Pros
    ABR-1= ABR-1 with 6-32 threaded rod posts
    ABRM-1=ABR with metric(4mm) threaded posts
    NASH= Graham Nash of the --no, wait = Nashville TOM:naughty:
    TLPC= tailpiece, stoptail
    M-W=MinWax
    TiteB=Titebond I--ONLY, aka "Original"
    CA= superglue(cyanoacrylate)
    ABS= ABS binding, covers
    CELL= cellulose binding,covers
    NI= nickel-spelled nickle by some-each is correct except for context
    AU=gold
    HB=humbucker
    P-90= P 90( just to be consistent and stubborn)
    SD = Seymour Duncan
    DM = DiMarzio
    OLE= what you say when that bull sweeps by just missing your balls(also part of my user name when followed with an apostrophe)
    FUBAR= needs no translation for Americans(USA)
    KO=knock-off


    And, so on-we need shorthand for the types of tuning machines
     
  8. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    On another topic popping up. If you are going to totally replace your binding, use a router to take it off. The fact is that you run a big chance of tearing some wood slivers(usually from the bottom of the ledge) and they are really hard to hide. This means you will need to enter into the world of router jigs and bits. I cannot help on the plywood "L" jigs that Scott W. and others made and used on their builds. I can help with all other styles of jigs for doing this. Note that a non-floating binding jig will not produce a channel that has the little maple Peek-a-boo-it will cut for the nearly 1/2" tall in the cutaway binding ledge.Otherwise, to get that "rise'" in the binding, you need to stop routing shortly after you "enter" the cutaway with the fixed "L" jig and complete by hand. Re-binding the neck is a nightmare with the frets already in, though alk-3 has shown that it can be done. (Someone needs to find that tutorial and get it posted up in the "kit-clinic" thread.)Thanks.

    It can be done with a number of economical woodworkers' marking gauges that use a small knife intsead of pins or, better in some cases, a "wheel cutter"-I can help there.

    I continue to be willing to make a tooling package for loan to address some of the steps in building, but I need to hear from people on what they think they need. I continue to place trust in my fellow man and want to help make this a rewarding experience for all-easing some tensions and disappointments by making good completion very likely and predictable. At present, I have heard from few of you about the tool kit. I have to limit to one circulating kit-just pure economics there- the box size at this point is driven by the 24" long straightedge.

    WHAT TOOLS DO YOU WANT TO HAVE INCLUDED IN SUCH A TRAVELING KIT?
     
  9. alexands

    alexands Junior Member

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    swoodrum - the piece is free. Just cover the cost of the shipping and the envelope. I am even going to the states Saturday so I will mail it from there instead of Canada which might get it there quicker.
     
  10. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    alexands, pm sent with my addresss.= thanks
     
  11. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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    Hey guys, I really, really thought about selling my kit, only because I havent had the time to sit down with the guitar and fiddle with the neck angle like I've wanted.

    Just have been working alot and just have gotten frustrated really. But, the little bit I've tried with the neck, no luck.

    So, instead of me selling, I'm asking if anyone can/could/would be interested in helping me out with the neck angle, maybe the gluing and drilling the holes?

    I might have a local guy that can help me out, I'll have to call around though.

    Just a thought. I know you guys are SUPER nice dudes, so I thought I'd ask.

    Sonny.
     
  12. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Hey Sonny,

    I wouldn't mind help out. If you don't have a problem shipping it out the Cali then I can work on it for you. Just let me know.

    Rob
     
  13. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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    Rob, that's fine. Just shoot me a message so we can work out the details. Thanks man.
     
  14. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Sonny, sent you an email.
     
  15. silverkw

    silverkw Senior Member

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    Just wanna say that it's great seeing guys helping each other out on this.
     
  16. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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  17. w666

    w666 Senior Member

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    My binding arrived today (see below)....it's a perfect match color wise.

    I'm unhappy about having to replace the body binding on my YKH kit (I've kinda gotten used to the color difference), but it's sanded so thin at points that I can see through it, and I know it will piss me off for years to come if I don't make it right. Besides....I need the practice :)

     
  18. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Glade to hear the color of the new binding matches. if you do decide to replace it can you document it? I'm kinda learning towards replacing it again. i just can't get over the color difference.
     
  19. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    having a hard time making a temp of the Headstock so I can shape my neck a little better. Does anyone want to sell a temp of a headstock. by the time I buy the right stuff I could have one made. The plans are from Bartlett's plans, I could either email or fax it to someone. the kit is from YKH. Let me know. Or I could send my neck to someone to shape it for me.
     
  20. bfcg

    bfcg Senior Member

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    I guess the YKW is code for somebody. Could somebody PM me with the secret? I seem to have misplaced my de-coder ring. Thanks.
     

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