Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes

Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Ole'Lefty, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. 76Custom

    76Custom Senior Member

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    Update....Faulty memory on my original post!

    "1st issue...Loose neck pocket on the bass side.

    Made a shim out of a piece of maple that closely matched the dimensions of the bass side of the neck pocket. After many test fits and checking the angles, alignment, etc, I glued it in with original Titebond and after a few days glued in the neck using every clamp I could get my hands on. Worked great."

    It occured to me that after much deliberation I took a shortcut and glued everything up in one fell swoop as opposed to what I posted.
     
  2. abfackeln

    abfackeln Member

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    Call me crazy, but has anyone actually attempted to remove the binding from on of the YKW kits? Mine's pretty thin in several areas on the body, and it seemed like the time to replace the binding (if one was foolhardy enough to attempt such a thing) would be before the neck gets glued. I hit it with the heat gun near the neck pocket, and I couldn't get the stuff to budge...
     
  3. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    I tried to remove it on the body and it was on there pretty good. Would be easier to just melt down some binding and fix the thin areas.
     
  4. Texas07R8

    Texas07R8 Senior Member

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    you should be able to remove the binding on the kits without too much effort. I'd try slipping an Xacto blade behind the binding and see if you can separate it then work it around. Mine came off fairly easy. If you screw up and gouge the wood behind the binding you could get some thicker binding and run a router bit and redo the binding channel slightly deeper if necessary.
     
  5. pinefd

    pinefd V.I.P. Member V.I.P. Member

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    So let me get this straight...the binding is too thin in places, so you want to remove it and replace it with thicker binding? In order to install thicker binding, wouldn't that require routing a wider channel for the new binding? And if you're going to go through the trouble of doing that, why not just route the old binding off the guitar while you're at it, and save yourselves a step? Or am I missing something?


    Frank
     
  6. abfackeln

    abfackeln Member

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    The binding channel is fine, it appears to be consistent all the way around the body - the way they scraped the binding is what's off. It tapers from regular thickness (at the bottom of the channel on the side of the body), to pretty thin in several areas as the binding meets the top, especially in the waist and the horn. And the horn binding is pretty rounded over. They got carried away with either scraping or sanding. I just want to replace with the same width binding that's properly trimmed. There's also several gaps on mine that were filled with glue.
    Trust me when I say that replacing the binding was the last thing I wanted to be doing, but if I'm going to take the time to make the most out of this build, I might as well do it right...
     
  7. Juan7fernandez

    Juan7fernandez Senior Member

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    I already replaced the binding on my kit. I will be posting pictures this weekend.

    I used white (stewmac) binding, so that way the neck and the body match. I will use amber clear nitro ( from re-ranch) to give them an aged look. I also made the rout a little wider to accommodate more binding material. So its nice and thick.
     
  8. Sea Ranch

    Sea Ranch Senior Member

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    Awesome! We'll look forward to the pix (they're worth a thousand words, you know! :laugh2:)
     
  9. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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    Juan, hope you make a tutorial :)
     
  10. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    I would Like my headstock to look like a Les Paul. Not sure what to use to shape it. any suggestions? If someone would like to make some cash I could ship it off. I've researched it on here and found nothing. If its not to hard I would try it----HELP PLEASE.
     
  11. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Here is my suggestion. First print a out a template of the headstock. Then if you have a jig saw you can use that to make the cuts. If you don't have one of those go buy a coping saw. Once cut, use files or sand paper to clean it up.
     
  12. Cpt_Gonzo

    Cpt_Gonzo Senior Member

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    Rough it out with a saw and fine tune with a dremel drumsander.

    That's how I did it and I think it came out very nice with minimal tearout. Note that I had zero woodworking skill when I did this, so anyone who has done this kind of stuff before will probably do it 100x better than I did.
    [​IMG]
     
  13. w666

    w666 Senior Member

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    Wow, really? Hmmm, now that you mention it, the neck binding does look more white than cream.....but definitely not as white as other white material I have.

    You say the StewMac matches the neck? OK...I'll give it a try. I'm clearly not happy with the color mismatch (not to mention that mine has been sanded so thin in parts it's nearly transparent!

    Thanks for the tip!

     
  14. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    Thanks Bossman302 and Cpt. Gonzo
     
  15. Juan7fernandez

    Juan7fernandez Senior Member

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    @ w666- they are not 100% match but obviously 90% closer. I didn't want to mess with the binding on the neck, plus the binding on my body was super thin in some spots so the white StewMac was the best option. Besides once I spray some aged (amber) clear nitro they will blend in perfectly. Not to mention, I've read that on most original 59's different color binding was used between neck and bodies(this I'm not 100% sure of, but that's what I have read and heard). I will be posting pictures soon, and that will hopefully give you an idea of what to expect.

    The binding was really hard to pull off the body.I'm not sure if it was the materil used for binding or the glue, so I ended up routing most of it off. I'm not saying it was impossible to pull off, but it would have taken a lot longer. I must say I am very pleased with the results.

    I also started working on the recurve of the carve. To me it looked like it was too soft all around but more so at the waist. I started by sanding in a bit in to the slope of the carve. This video was very helpful


    [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ax0ZFIl_o2w"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ax0ZFIl_o2w[/ame]


    I will be posting pictures very soon. I hope this helps.
     
  16. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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    Juan, which binding did you order?
     
  17. swoodrum

    swoodrum Senior Member

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    Does anyone know what would be a good size of router bit to use with my dremel tool to put a headstock inlay in? I'm thinking either 1/8 or 1/16th size.
     
  18. alexands

    alexands Junior Member

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    swoodrum - Smaller will give you the ability to route in more detail.

    Having said this, have you made a veneer to go on the headstock as they are currently too thin to hide the nut for the rod.

    I bought 3 linear feet of black veneer from Lee Valley and used one small piece of it to make my veneer.

    If anyone wants some of it let me know (they are nice sized rectangles) that are probably big enough to make 2 veneers per sheet.

    I'll post a photo tomorrow. I glued it to my headstock last night but won't get a chance to look at it today as I have an exam tomorrow :(
     
  19. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    alexands, i'm interested in a piece of veneer.
     
  20. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    Link to Lee Valley Veneers. Sequence-Matched Veneer Packages - Lee Valley Tools
    I will edit in a link to LMII fiber "veneer" which is appropriate as well.Fiber Veneer Sheets - Information and Pricing at LMI

    *** When veneering to the headstocks on these kits, remember that most tuning machines will max out at 9/16" thickness and some only 1/2"***

    To inlay, I use a StewMac router base, a Foredom flex-shaft system and a 1/16th" bit. That bit requires a great deal of care to keep from snapping off. On the "Gibson" logo, the gapping is intentional-it matches the factory standards for production speed "slop." The "gaps" that appear on the traps is not gap-it is shadow-there is enough depth to accept a layer of black epoxy for glue-in.
     

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