Kit clinic-all brands- routine & fixes

Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Ole'Lefty, Oct 23, 2010.

  1. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    Hopefully this will be a combined thread for help with any kit issues-whether the kit is a recent brand or one that has been around for awhile.

    If you have a question, post it. If you have one or more solutions, post them. Even if you are new at building/assembling, do not be shy. Often that newness of the process opens the mind unconstrained by traditional methodology!
     
  2. 76Custom

    76Custom Senior Member

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    Guess I'll start this off. Great idea Lefty.

    Bulldog kit.

    1st issue...Loose neck pocket on the bass side.

    Made a shim out of a piece of maple that closely matched the dimensions of the bass side of the neck pocket. After many test fits and checking the angles, alignment, etc, I glued it in with original Titebond and after a few days glued in the neck using every clamp I could get my hands on. Worked great.

    Until...

    2nd issue...Slight backbow in neck. Researched on this very forum and recieved great advice from some other members. Using a combination of long and short straight edges I determined the backbow was from the 5th fret to the nut. With the guitar face down on my workbench I used a wooden dowel that was previously used as a paint roller extension as a fulcrum directly adjacent to the 5th fret (on the board not the fret itself) and clamped the neck fretboard down in 2 places. Lightly but firmly clamped at the heel. After heating the area (fretboard and neck) from about the 8th fret to the nut with a heating pad wrapped around the neck for about 15 minutes, I applied a clamp at the headstock side of the nut and gradually clamped some relief into my neck while appying heat from my wifes hairdryer for about another 15 minutes. The neck was hot to the touch. Left it clamped for a couple of days and no more fret buzz.

    I'm still not done with it due to a steeper than expected learning curve in spray can nitro. I've sprayed 3 different Tobacco burst finishes with the first 2 not making the cut and getting sanded back. The 3rd I liked but ended up with pinholes after some less than perfect drop fills on a couple of spots I should have left well enough alone.

    Wall of text off!
     
  3. Steven Edmunds

    Steven Edmunds Senior Member

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  4. 76Custom

    76Custom Senior Member

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    Thanks Steven. Exactly the thread that inspired my back bow fix. Yours turned out great!

    Another tip I forgot about. I used a 5 dollar laser level from radio shack and a cheap set of calipers to mark my centerline on the body and check my neck alignment. I went off of the pickup routes since they were already done.
     
  5. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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  6. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    Bump-please see "YKW" thread in Luthier's Corner. I will then be posting follow-ups here.
     
  7. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    Bump for the Weekenders. I have had two email responses on this- the "You Know Who" Assembly Assistance Kits. With somewhere around 35-40 delivered kits out there, I expected more interest.( The glue-line flaw in my kit's body will possibly force me to an all gold, early 50's with tailpiece-mine is P-90's) I will put any plan to make the accessories needed to make the tailpieces useful on hold. I have a project to finish and pack before this but was hoping to have the helper kits done Thurs. or Fri. next week.
     
  8. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    deleted
     
  9. jordans0nly

    jordans0nly Senior Member

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    I bought some 6/32 nuts today to see what the bridge will look like. Not sure how I'll know what height to get the bridge at.

    Also, should I not worry about sanding before I drill the Bridge/Tailpiece holes and gluing the neck?

    Any suggestions?
     
  10. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    I would drill the necessary holes before final sand--and I mean FINAL!!! At 600 grit and up, you will not be likely to dish the holes. One thing about the beautiful LP curves-they make it hard to use backing sanding blocks. I would also not glue the neck in until final sanded-again, just avoid a heavy hand that turns the lines to mush.

    I tend to agree with the irritated criticisms noted by some buyers. A "close" top carve and a "close" control cavity carve and some nibs are not enough to make this into a good experience. And, since the long tenon with the maple strip filler for the TR is a "hallmark", the shortfall there is just a major disappointment along with the angles and gaps. I have a premium replica that cost about double, where all of what should be right, is right. No fretboard but otherwise same completion stage-routed very accurately for body binding.All it needs is material at .070, some tape(possibly warming horn for some binding types) and glue.

    My MOP traps are MOTS!!!!! Paid extra for MOP.

     
  11. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    SCALE!!!! How many with YKW kits have measured your fretboard for scale? Mine is exactly 24 3/4", total. As we all know, this numerically full length scale is not really what is seen in real Gibsons.

    I post about this because true scale length has a relationship to compensation required. The shorter the scale, the more precise the compensation must be. It is not a huge range within the 24 5/8" minimum seen to my dead on full length, but it is a factor.

    MAKE SURE YOU CAREFULLY MEASURE YOUR ACTUAL KIT NECK SCALE FROM FRONT OF THE NUT TO CENTER OF 12TH FRET SO YOU ARE NOT ASSUMING OR GUESSING ANYTHING HERE!(FOR EXAMPLE, MY 12TH FRET IS EXACTLY 12 3/8".) YOU NEED TO KNOW THIS EVEN IF YOU ARE GOING TO USE A TEMPORARY SHIMMED BRIDGE TO SET COMPENSATION AND THIS IS OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE WHEN THE NECK IS CLAMPED IN THE MORTISE SINCE IT CAN SHIFT!! YOU SHOULD MAKE SURE YOUR BRIDGE POSITION IS MATHEMATICALLY CORRECT TOO!!! IF IT IS NOT, DOUBLE CHECK EVERYTHING.
     
  12. Ole'Lefty

    Ole'Lefty Premium Member

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    PROBABLE "KIT" TOOLKIT CONTENTS-- "harp-style) tailpiece, 6-32 threaded studs(2 sets;one with pointed ground tips)two pairs of round "feet" for the 6-32 studs; StewMac 24" straightedge(rest it just on the first fret and it is fine for the scale-it will be marked for 12 5/16th, 12 3/8, 12 9/32nds ); bridge drill guides; tail drill guides; good 6" ruler to 64ths;tapered reamer(s).

    If I can, I will do studs in 4mm and threaded discs/feet for same. Real TOM's in 6/32nds are pretty premium priced compared to metrics. Same issues for Nashville bridges. If folks who have their hardware will measure their studs and bushings so we can nail down specs from Gotoh, TonePros others like Pigtails, I could include the drill bits and taps where needed for imperial and metric.

    I need carefully measured specs from several people on each choice to cross check.

    I have these things on hand-I can do more than one without the SE and ruler.

    I seem to be talking to myself, so if there isn't any more sincere interest, well then, I'll leave you on your own. Perhaps I am insulting many of you assuming you can't just throw the things together for a perfect guitar. If so, I apologize and will close this out.
     
  13. saxman10

    saxman10 Senior Member

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    Your help is really really appreciated, believe me.
    I for one, will need some time to stare at my kit, and figure out what I need to be done, letting the others who need your helpful bridge kit before me.
    Thank you Ole' Lefty
    ~saxman
     
  14. shaun

    shaun Banned

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    This thread is a good idea, for all kits, not just the G kit. The 'lack of interest' is probably due to people still waiting on their kits. In an initial email to G, i think alot of the kits were sold to international, not just in the States.
    Im waiting for mine to come to Australia, and i realistically dont expect it for at least another month.:rolleyes:
     
  15. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    I measured the scale on my YKW kit and it is also 24 3/4"
     
  16. Juan7fernandez

    Juan7fernandez Senior Member

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    I'm in for this. Let me know what you need from me.
     
  17. pinefd

    pinefd V.I.P. Member V.I.P. Member

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    Hey, Mike, did you get my email regarding the binding?


    Frank
     
  18. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    Is it good news???? :D
     
  19. pinefd

    pinefd V.I.P. Member V.I.P. Member

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    I guess you could say that. The "G" man got in a limited supply of the body binding (darker binding) in case anyone needs some, and can get some of the neck binding too, if anyone needs any. The neck binding would take longer, since it would likely ship from China with the LP-4 kits.
     
  20. bossman302

    bossman302 Senior Member

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    That is great new but to bad I need neck binding.
     

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