I'm going to need some advice

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by BlackBeard, Oct 3, 2017.

  1. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    I'm refinishing a 23 year old Studio. 2 issues I'm facing are 1) there is a crack in the headstock, appears simple but I may have questions. 2) the flat black has gotten into the grain. I've sanded a little with 220 grit, any advice to get the rest of this off? I've lurked here off and on for years but the old threads I used to visit, the pics aren't available any more.
     

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  2. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Senior Member

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    The experts will be along soon! :dude: My best suggestion, short of more sanding which could actually remove enough material to change the guitar's profile, would be repeated scrubbing with lacquer thinner and a stiff, but fine bristled brush in hopes of getting down into the grain enough to finish removing the finish. I've also heard the term "bleaching" used, but from what I understand, it is not actually bleach that gets used!

    Just My $.02,
    Gene
     
  3. jkes01

    jkes01 Senior Member

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    Since the experts haven’t arrived yet, I’ll tell you what I would do :cool:.




    Grain fill the rest of the neck with black and do a stinger. :thumb:

    .
     
  4. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    I do like the look of that, if I'm being honest.
     
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  5. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    I think I'll research this a little deeper. You might be on to something
     
  6. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    some paint stripper will lift the black out of the pores....just don't get it on the plastics
     
  7. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    Thanks Freddy. I just found your build videos today. Looking forward to watching these this weekend. I used a stripper to get rid of the flat black paint. The mahogany came out great. Maybe I should strip the maple again?
     
  8. Freddy G

    Freddy G V.I.P. Member

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    cheers! the black is in the maple pores? just sand it out...it won't be very deep at all
     
  9. dcomiskey

    dcomiskey Member

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    What are your plans for the refin? Do you NEED to get it out or are you going to paint over it anyway?
     
  10. WhiteEpiLP

    WhiteEpiLP Senior Member

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    Since its a studio with out any binding acetone on a rag will get all that off with out hurting the guitar. That headstock crack was is previously repaired and is it decently repaired? You'll be hard pressed to make that disappear completely, maybe put a stinger on the back of the headstock
     
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  11. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    I would prefer not to use a paint on the next finish. Even though it isn't flamed I still think the wood looks great. If I could just get most of it out I would be happy.
    The headstock was not repaired. It was painted over. It'll probably not go away completely, but I'm really considering this stinger idea to better conceal it.
     
  12. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    So, I tried stripper, acetone and paint thinner. No luck getting the pores clean. Gonna hit it with an orbital sander and try to preserve the carved top in the process. It IS just a studio, but I don't want to trash it. If I can successfully refinish this guitar I'm going to attempt a couple of kits and then my first build.
     
  13. The Ballzz

    The Ballzz Senior Member

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    What are you planning to do about that issue of "The headstock was not repaired. It was painted over."? From what it looks like, you are lucky that a "poor" repair was not attempted. If it were me, I'd address that BEFORE putting too much other time and effort into the guitar. As scary as it may sound, you might need to finish breaking that headstock to open it up enough to carefully clean out a few stray fibers for a good, clean fit and properly get enough glue into the joint for a successful repair. I would first apply a bit of pressure to check how much movement there is. How far and how completely you "finish breaking" the area is a case by case judgement call. How far and how easily the crack moves tells you how compromised the bond of the other internal wood fibers that are still connected actually are. The way it looks in the pic leads me to suspect that there are already a few misaligned fibers from one piece of the break to the other, impeding a nice fit back into place, thus affecting the strength of a repair/joint. That will likely be a bit of a tricky repair, as opposed to a wide open, clean break!
    Please Keep Us Posted On Your Progress,
    Gene
     
  14. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    Granted I have never attempted this before, but flexing it by hand, I can only get it open about 1/16''. It will be a week or 2 before I have time to get back on it but my plan is to flex the break as much as possible in order to clean it out really good. I read on here a couple years ago about thinning Titebond and injecting it in to crack and then clamping. I was planning to pose this to the experts as time neared, but since it came up, does that sound like a solid plan or does anyone have a better option on this.
     
  15. judson

    judson Senior Member

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    i stripped a wine finished 93 Studio all with acetone, first pic, then hand sanded the rest with a very fine grade foam sanding block in second pic....this was my second try at stripping a guitar body...im not sure about any power sanding as i would think it may take too much out, but i have little experience.

    i think addressing that neck would be number#1 to start because what good is the whole job if you cannot get a good stable repair before the finish work...go for it


    IMG_20160430_153831806.jpg IMG_20160501_092302606.jpg
     
  16. jkes01

    jkes01 Senior Member

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    Titebond original, not thinned. Can you get it to close up, or is the black paint preventing it?
     
  17. BlackBeard

    BlackBeard Junior Member

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    Looks great! I agree, the headstock will be the next task.
    It will close almost completely. It does not have paint up in the crack oddly enough.
     
  18. fatdaddypreacher

    fatdaddypreacher V.I.P. Member

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    i agree with opting not to thin the titebond. put some in a small plastic syringe. if you can't get it in all the nooks and crannies, shoot a little air in there to move the glue deeper, being careful to not blow it all out, then clean it up with damp cloth and clamp. clean excess off where you can and you should be good to go.
     
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