How to keep things neat?

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Gothika777, Oct 1, 2017.

  1. Gothika777

    Gothika777 Senior Member

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    I was wondering how people make their work as neat as possible.

    I've pretty much finished my first build give it take some touch ups

    1) what's the easiest way of protecting wood bits from scratches and dents

    2) when scraping the nibs with a razor blade how do I stop it digging in and leaving some marks (i saw this on some Gibson guitars in a store)

    Is there a better way of getting the nibs/binding level to keep the wood uneffected?

    3) how do u keep the fretboard clean after sanding when you are gluing in frets and fretboard binding (I.e prevent hide glue or super glue sticking to the fretboard)

    4) when spraying how do you get even colour by corner of the top and the fretboard binding?

    5) how do you stop and grain filler dye getting on the binding (when grain filling) and what do you do to stop and grain filler getting in tuner holes ect?

    6) what is the easiest and safest way of thicknessing fretboard binding to make it even?

    7) do you finish shaping the body cut away after test fitting the neck and fretboard to make sure you don't have to take any material of the fretboard binding ( since it's thin anyway)?
     
  2. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    1. just be careful. I have carpet tiles I use when working on bodies or even when they are just sitting around on the shelf. Do not do finish sanding, or even rough sanding, until you are ready to move on to the next step. Most small scratches and dings will be taken out when sanding but after finish sanding make sure it is put somewhere protected and do not move around too much. Go right to finishing.

    2. scrape, do not cut. I take majority off with a tiny template bit 3/16" diameter, then file down close trim the fret edges with a razor blade and then scrape flush with board. You can and should sand just like any other part of guitar to get a nice smooth finish. Just not too much and with the correct grit

    3. you clean up after. If you have to scrape and sand then you have to scrape and sand. CA glue scrapes and sands very easily. Any animal glues can also be cleaned up easily with warm water. I wouldn't use hide glue for frets. I've used titebond and CA glue.

    4. Not sure how this is a problem but mask binding and tilt guitar to get into the corners.

    5. You don't stop it. You can mask the edge of the binding, if we are talking an LP you want to mask off the top really well. I mask just above the binding line. IF you are shooting colour on the body you are going to probably scrape anyway. If the grain filler stains the binding then scrape as well.

    6. This comes down to experience. Some can freehand it with a scraper or a belt sander. I have a stainless steel template the right size of the the fretboard + binding, assuming you finish the fret board before it's glued to the neck. It's sweeeeeet. I use it for fret board and neck taper as well. Here is a pic -
    [​IMG]



    7. The body at the neck fret board should be just proud of the fret board binding so you scrape the body and binding to match up exactly with the fret board binding. If it ends up underneath you do not have many options. I oversize my body in that area so it works out.

    Good luck. Start a thread and post lots of pics. :)
     
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  3. Gothika777

    Gothika777 Senior Member

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    I don't have many in progress pictures but here is what I have:

    I made quite a few mistakes but I am just glad it's nearly over! I think the binding was the worst part (not cutting the channel but gluing the plastic).

    http://s411.photobucket.com/user/Marc_Lupton/media/IMG_0016_zpssjlmbgki.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]

    http://s411.photobucket.com/user/Marc_Lupton/media/IMG_0034_zpsf0rhsjxs.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]

    http://s411.photobucket.com/user/Marc_Lupton/media/IMG_0032_zpsj9ptgtks.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]


    http://s411.photobucket.com/user/Marc_Lupton/media/IMG_0041_zpsj7vwfroi.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]


    http://s411.photobucket.com/user/Marc_Lupton/media/IMG_0050_zpsblspfaq3.jpg.html][​IMG][/URL]

    You can see I had to repair the headstock as my tuner pre drill holes were too small and the wood had a little split once the strings were put on

    I hadn't actually seen a les paul in the flesh before but the ones in the local shop are very flat and don't have much of a carve. Were they always like this?
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2017
  4. WhiteEpiLP

    WhiteEpiLP Senior Member

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    The carve has varied over the years, even the vintage bursts had quite varied carves. Most people tend to like the tops with a large recurve (dish look) near the binding edge as it reflects the light very nicely.
     
  5. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    Firstly you will need to delete the pic with the logo.....thats a no-no here.

    Most of your questions are covered in answers above.....but also answered in build threads on this forum that should have be preparatory reading before you even started.
    If you have omitted to already, the Bartlett Build and the Ex Nihilo Vintage burst build show the steps that cover practically all of the issues you have been questioning.
     
  6. Skyjerk

    Skyjerk Meatbomb Silver Supporter

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    Mighty pretty piece of work. Its a gorgeous top.

    You might wanna blur out or remove the "G" logo on the headstock shots. As ARandall said, thats specifically prohibited.
     

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