Fret Doctor - Before and After Pictures

Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Alex, Mar 12, 2008.

  1. dspelman

    dspelman Senior Member

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    Interesting and all -- but I've gotten exactly the same results by using plain old lighter fluid (naptha, as recommended by Gibson before they sold their own fretboard gunk) to clean, 0000 steel wool to polish the frets a bit, and garden variety mineral oil applied to the fretboard.

    As for the darkening and subsequent lightening of the fretboard surface mentioned in the posts, you should note that this also happens with mineral oil (and even with that 'lemon oil polish" stuff for furniture, which is generally a mix of mineral oil, naptha as a solvent and absolutely no real lemon oil)). Again, mineral oil is what Gibson recommended before they began to sell their own stuff.
     
  2. Jason

    Jason Senior Member

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    Yup. I am pretty sure that Fret Doctor itself is just white mineral oil with a scent added to it anyway. I just use some "lemon" oil that I picked up for cheap at the grocery store. :laugh2:
     
  3. mikemack

    mikemack Senior Member

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    That is a beautifull board :thumb:
     
  4. beanhead

    beanhead Senior Member

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    good stuff. some nice lookin fretboards here :thumb:

    but am i the only one who never replaces ALL of the strings at once, but one at a time to maintain tension? :hmm:

    btw thanks for the pics, now I want an Iced-Tea... :dude:
     
  5. lazz

    lazz Senior Member

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    i remove all the strings at once.I dont think the 5 minute change in tension will make any difference to the neck at all,in fact if you watch the how to vids on strings all the pro techs cut all the strings at once.
     
  6. bfcg

    bfcg Senior Member

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    I think it is good stuff. I appreciate all of the photos and the time some of you spent on bringing this to the rest of us....but, when taking before and after photos, couldn't you try to replicate the lighting conditions, angle and framing for each picture.
    If I were dubious about the product, I certainly would not be convinced if those were product shots.
    Again I really do appreciate your efforts but I will get the flame suit on anyway.
     
  7. dspelman

    dspelman Senior Member

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    There's absolutely no reason to do that (replace just one string at a time).

    Internet myth.

    In fact, I've stored guitars for 10 years by cutting off the strings and loosening the truss rod until it no longer put any tension on the neck. At the end of that time I cleaned it all up, put some mineral oil on the fretboard overnight, wiped it all down, put on new strings and did a complete setup on it (including truss rod). Waited a day, made any necessary adjustments and it's been fine ever since.
     
  8. dspelman

    dspelman Senior Member

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    The guy that makes the stuff swears that it's an exotic formulation of some sort and not mineral oil based.

    I've got a 1939 Epiphone Emperor (non-electric) that has had the mineral oil treatment all its life and the fretboard looks gorgeous. I have no idea how much better it could look with "fret doctor" but I'm guessing that a generous bottle of mineral oil purchased in 1939 for a few cents would have been enough for 70 years worth of treatment.

    Honestly, virtually any oil will work on fretboards -- Neal Schon swears he uses salami <G>. Not HIS Salami, I'm thinking -- the store-bought kind. Other people I know use and swear by olive oil. Why not?

    Spend what you want to spend, believe whatever advertising copy you want to believe -- but so far there's no evidence whatsoever that you need anything more exotic than plain old mineral oil.
     
  9. dspelman

    dspelman Senior Member

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    You'll have to take this Salami stuff up with Neal Schon. I have no idea how his guitar smells or if the wood is rotting off it. Same with the folks who use olive oil. There are even people who use motor oil. Honestly I don't think it makes a lot of difference, nor have I *ever* heard of a fretboard rotting because the olive oil went rancid. Since this guy doesn't publish what's in fret doctor, you have NO clue what's in there (rare, exotic, natural, right...). You're just drinking his Kool-Aid and buying whatever advertising copy he's putting out. More power to you, I'm sure it's good stuff and it's your money. I think that if plain old mineral oil works (and has been recommended for years) there's not a whole lot of reason for me to pay the bucks for the new hot ticket just because some guy slps up a website and claims his stuff is the best since sliced...uh...salami <G>.
     
  10. Sinster

    Sinster Senior Member

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    What did you use before you started to use Fret Dr.
     
  11. jtmann

    jtmann Junior Member

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    Fret Doctor vs. Roche Thomas Premium Fingerboard Oil
    I have been research for a while what is best to use for my Ibanez electric rosewood fingerboard. I have narrowed down to Fret Doctor vs. Roche Thomas Premium Fingerboard Oil. To my uneducated eye they look to be the same ingredients?

    Does anyone know? I can't get an answer out of either manufacturer

    thanks

    Edit - here are the URLS
    http://www.rochethomas.com/p-121-pre...d-oil-2oz.aspx
    Bore Oil for the Fife and Fret Doctor
     
  12. watchunglava

    watchunglava Senior Member

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    the colors looks different the roche looks more golden the fret dr looks more yellow
     
  13. jtmann

    jtmann Junior Member

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    Cleaning/oiling fretboard - how to with strings ON?

    I recently bought a new guitar and unless my memory is failing me, I recall the manual saying to change strings one at a time to help neck/tuning stability.

    Does that sounds right? Reasons I aks is that I was about to clean the frets/fretboard and then apply some Fret Doctor. Obviously that would be easier to do if all the strings were off but I do not want to compromise my current action.

    Any suggestions or comments on this? thanks
     
  14. ASG

    ASG Senior Member

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    The guitar neck didn't have strings on it when it was being made so....
    Luthiers building and repairing will leave necks unstrung for years.

    I use flaxseed oil with is a food grade linseed oil, you can get it cheaply from healthfood stores. Carpenters have been using linseed oil for centuries to preserve wood. The cheap stuff will smell and be gunky though.

    Fret Dr looks nice but I don't like putting stuff onto my girl unless I know what it is....
    It's probably Flaxseed oil, with a scent, and a bit of other oil thrown in so he can say it is a hybrid and unique. As my girl says... "up to you!"
     
  15. claudel

    claudel Junior Member

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    I've had a small bottle of Roche-Thomas Premium bore oil for about 7 or 8 years and I really like what it does for all my bare fingerboards.

    Fretless ebony bass board, Kingwood Strat, bare maple, whatever it is that's on my replica.

    All look great.

    It really heals the micro-cracks in the wood and brings out the grain in the ones that have visible grain.

    Try the before and after with a magnifying glass...

    I still have about half a bottle left. What a bargain @~$5 or so.

    When it runs out I'll probably have a go with the Fret Doctor, but I'd be surprised if the results were a whole lot better.
     
  16. dudu

    dudu Senior Member

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    Before:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
  17. Reed Clifton

    Reed Clifton Member

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    [​IMG] here is a quick after while changing strings on a katalox board
     
  18. smorgdonkey

    smorgdonkey Senior Member

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    That looks exactly like the product that I use called Dr. Duck's AXWAX.
    Same results too...
     
  19. joebonsai

    joebonsai Senior Member

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    on a 59er Melody Maker
    before

    [​IMG]

    after

    [​IMG]

    :hippie:
     
  20. watchunglava

    watchunglava Senior Member

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    nah bro , your shit is petrolium based . learn what your talking about before you post
     

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