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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Freddy G, Nov 19, 2016.
You owe no apology
Its a great teaser, makes us want more. You should start charging for these vids. Of course after tou finish this build that is.
could you show us how you mix your anyline dyes for those like me who don't know how to? great vids, im almost ready to finish spray this guitar. lots of help, thanx freddy.
^^ Ask Freddy for the full version or you might get the teaser of: here's my mixing cup and stirring stick.
I just saw this.
I use alcohol soluble aniline dyes dissolved in methyl hydrate. I can't remember the exact formula but it's something like 1oz of powder to 1 or 2 pints of alcohol. Just follow the instructions on the package. Then when I mix it into the clear lacquer it might be 5-10% dye. I don't even measure it anymore....I'm like a cook that doesn't follow exact recipes...rather I constantly adjust to taste.
could you sub denatured alcohol for the methyl hydrate type, not sure what that is or if I can find it? thanx for the info freddy.
Denatured alcohol is fine.
What sort of pressure are you running on your gun??
I noticed back on one of your old vids of spraying a Tobacco burst Tele that your pressure and lacquer flow seem to be really low....as if you are trying to kiss the surface with the nitro.
I set up the gun differently depending on what I'm trying to accomplish. For example, when I shoot build coats I set the gun to 10 -13 PSI at the gun with the trigger pulled. But this all depends on the gun and even the viscosity of the lacquer too. I'm talking about my Iwata LPH-80 which is an gravity feed HVLP gun. When I'm shooting a burst, I thin the lacquer a lot because I just want to apply colour, not build thickness. In that case, I turn it up to about 20 PSI or more but then I also turn the output control down. So I'm getting a lot of air pressure but not a lot of paint volume coming out of the gun. The reason for that is finer atomization. When shooting a burst I want fine atomization for the gradient. I don't want to see droplets which you tend to get with lower pressure HVLP.
Thanks for that. It gives me a small headstart setting my gun by seeing how the more experienced set guns.
thanx freddy, that info helped lots. gonna get some scrap to test on for sure.
so I would then mix the dye/ alcohol into clear plus thinner?
Yes I mix the dye/alcohol into uncut lacquer at a ratio of about 1:10 or less. If you like a really soft, gentle gradient then you want a weaker mix. But generally along the very edge of the guitar where the binding is I want that to be a strong mix so I might go even bit more than 10%....maybe 15%. After you have the lacquer/dye mixed then cut the whole thing with thinner. It could be anywhere between 25-50% thinner. You'll have to experiment how for you can go with your own set-up....the gun, needle, temperature etc. all makes a difference. Obviously, the thinner your mix, the lighter you have to apply coats or you'll get runs and sags.
ok thanx for the info freddy.
sorry for the questions, I mixed 1.5 tsp of dye into 8oz. of alcohol/ thinner, is it normal to have so much powder un-dissolved, theres quite a bit. this dye is the keyda stuff, I think im going to get some of the LMI dyes and see if they do any better. just curious before I strain or use this dye, I kinda like the yellow from it though.
yeah that's normal....you have to strain it before mixing into lacquer.
ok- wanted to be sure first. thanx again.
do you spray a wash/ sealer coat before spraying the yellow color coats or do you spray the yellow on bare wood? do you spray wash coat over yellow before spraying the red burst?
I spray a couple of sealer coats before spraying a toner coat of yellow. I also seal the yellow coat with a coat of clear before spraying the burst.
I dunno about you guys, but I find that the aniline dyes fade so much that I have completely lost interest in using them. I know that lots of people have fun spraying a cherry burst and putting it out in the sun to fade etc. but how is it fun when the yellow in the middle completely disappears and you're back to a bare maple middle with a muddy orange looking burst edge? Beats me.
Anyways my suggestion is to put on lots of yellow toner coats in colorfast dyes instead of aniline, don't just spray a single yellow coat until it looks 'just right', really layer it on there so that at the very least the middle yellow holds up after some fading whether intentionally faded or not.