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Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by nicolasrivera, Jan 3, 2011.
it may be, I just always will think of 58 reissues when I see that kinda wood grain
I don't send my guitars off with an evelope stuffed with money, or rub coffee, duck butter, and parakeet shit all over them to give people the impression that I play them. I simply play them. The 'aging' will happen, oddly enough, with age.
I'm not going to get into the history of the sale of this infamous guitar because I have no skin in the game and it's really not my business.
I will say that this perpetual witch hunt is pretty freakin' stupid. No one at this point is going to die on the operating table and no one has a gun pointed at their head to like the guitar or the OP for that matter. What purpose does keeping on with this shit slinging serve?
For those who don't like the OP or the guitar, how many times must you make your point?
Again, I have no vested interest whatsoever. It wouldn't matter to me who the OP is or what the guitar in question is. This has gotten childish and petty IMHO.
The thread is about relicing the original poster's personal guitars.
It is a hobby, like renovating a piece of furniture for example.
Nobody is interested in overly negative comments concerning the cons of doing so, particularly when made in such a puerile and scurrilous way.
Did you darken the fretboards on your reissues?
If so,what did you use?
I have a very light coloured board on my R9 that i want to darken.
Hey, no fair I asked this wayyyyy before....a long long time ago....
I understand tannery (leather) dye works well...
It's the colour of the stain i'm looking for, to match up to a dark vintage Brazilian
Leather Dye - Eco-Flo - Fiebing's - Tandy Leather Factory
Take your pick! I know many builders use the black dye on ebony. Your best bet is to look for a local leather store (probably a tandy) and take a look at the colors in person so you know what you are getting.
I have used most of the browns (on leather) and I'd say start off lighter. You can do a few coats to make it darker.
Does anything remove it, in case you encounter an error?
The idea of using leather dye sounds good.
Maybe wise to use an old piece of wood to test it first,
or a cheap Chinese acoustic i have with a light coloured board.
Happy new year!
The leather dyes do work, but its better to do in on fingerboards before the inlays are put in.
I personally like using Old English dark wood scratch remover, it will darken the rosewood over a period of 3 months of applications. Apply one coat a week.
Finally someone saves me from reading 20+ pages! Thank you!
Lucky you I had to read the whole thing.....
A fantastic job if I may say so Nicolas but do you really think that Old English is the best substance for staining fingerboards given it's chemical composition?.
Apparently this material has similar contents of another product known as "Gunk". (30% by volume)
I think I will pass on this one and try something more natural.
Check out the data sheet here :
Household Products Database - Health and Safety Information on Household Products
I trust it because been using it for over 15 years, besides it has less chemicals then leather dye.
So it sounds OK then.
I have used Noodler's Bulletproof No. 41 Brown Ink to tint harder woods in the past.
This ink is described as "extremely permanent and forgery proof" so it might be worth a test piece or two.
Cool! i've been lucky that all the les paula i have owned have and had an already dark rosewood to start with, but if i ever get a good guitar with those light looking wood i will use a dye for sure.
The leather dye I linked is actually water based and environmentally friendly. Just wanted to point that out! .
But I would go with the other stuff you posted, I've never tried dying a finger board but your R8's came out really nice.