First Burst - Here We Go

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Telzilla, Feb 13, 2018.

  1. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    So I got this beauty from Precision Guitar Kits:
    TOP.JPG

    I've refinished / finished several guitars and done setups/changed parts / necks, etc. But this is my first set neck project. Going for a pretty subtle burst, something like this, created by user madmusicltd:
    [​IMG]
    This is just varying concentrations of vintage amber in denatured alcohol rubbed on by hand. So wish me luck.
    [​IMG]
     

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    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018

  2. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    I have a cherry finish kit from Wudtone (rub on stain) that I'll be using for the back of the body and the neck. Here's the back and neck after cleanage. Following Stewmac's instructions, I used Naptha followed by mineral spirits followed by ammonia in water (wood's still a little wet so it appears a bit darker)
    IMG_0799.JPG

    Masked off the top and neck (I read Frogtape was better than the blue stuff. I hope that's correct, hoping not to scrape bindings much):
    IMG_0801.JPG
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018
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  3. madmusicltd

    madmusicltd Senior Member

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    Is that stain & filler, don't forget the filler for the mahogany
     

  4. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Started the Wudtone process. The kit actually has 4 little bottles: A deep color coat, 2 base coats, and then a top clearcoat (gloss). They say to use a small amount and go slow. 2-3 coats of each step, and at least 24 hours between coats. I'm not going for a perfectly smooth look- I really prefer a neck with almost no finish to the sticky shiny ones, so I didn't fill the wood. So here's after one coat of the deep color (pretty red):
    IMG_0807.jpg
    This is after 2 deep color coats and 1 of the first base coat. Supposed to darken it a bit (more brownish, less red), which I could maybe talk myself into.
    IMG_0810.jpg
    I'm a little tempted just to spray some lacquer on it and call it good, but the waiting builds character (or something). Not sure how many more pix of a microscopically different piece of mahogany anyone needs, so it might be a while before more posts. I hope you can contain your excitement.
     

  5. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Going for more of an open pore kinda thing so no filler. Which I may live to regret:fingersx:

    Wudtone does say they've gotten good results with this kind of thing for SGs and other all mahog type axes.
     
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  6. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    How does the neck fit? Had you considered setting the neck prior to finish? IMO it is easier to make a nice tight joint using sandpaper prior to glue up and then also sanding after glue up but that may be just my SOP on a scratch build. Having the tailpiece and bridge already drilled could change my order of operations a bit. Looks good so far.

    Cheers Peter.
     

  7. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Neck fits perfectly.
    Neck fits perfectly. Maybe a good point on the sanding...
     

  8. kasu

    kasu Senior Member

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    Good choice IMO. :thumb:
    Awesome looking top btw!
     

  9. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    good or not, just different. If it fits perfectly and your bridge studs are in the right spot, just make sure you tape the joint well and there should be minimal cleanup. If you use an animal glue you can clean up with hot water and clean up before it hardens. With a nice tight neck joint you can put a large C clamp on there and have access to the joint to cleanup any squeeze out quite easily. Fish Glue works well or maybe try the liquid hide glue. HHG is a PITA and unless your going for vintage correct it is not worth the extra work, IMO.

    Cheers Peter.
     
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  10. FirstTrain

    FirstTrain Senior Member

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    Looking good... dig the color of the finished example... Think it'll look coolio with your top grain.
     

  11. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    I was thinking just the traditional titebond...
     

  12. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    That'll work.

    Cheers Peter.
     

  13. stp

    stp Senior Member

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    Ive built one of these I glued the neck in before I did any thing
     

  14. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    OK, I'm listening. This kit already has the bridge and tailpiece holes drilled.

    What are the advantages of gluing the neck on now? What will I screw up by not doing it? It's a hell of a lot easier to work with in two sections.
     

  15. pshupe

    pshupe Senior Member

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    Are you going to glue the neck in before doing the finish on the top? The reason I ask is because there are a number of surfaces that have to line up perfectly. The sides of the neck at the body, the three tenon faces should match the neck route, and the two surfaces which are the underside of the fret board have to match perfectly with the neck plane on the top. Generally I would fit those perfectly using sandpaper and glue it up soon after adjusting the surfaces. Once they are glued up you then scrape the glue and possibly have to blend the surfaces together a little bit. If the finish is done you cannot blend.

    If you are sure the surfaces mate perfectly then it should be fine. On a scratch build you set the neck then drill holes for tailpiece and bridge, and even route for PUPs related to the way the neck went in. Everything relates to the centerline and length to the nut. Once that is done they you do final sanding and prep for finish. As I said with CNC the neck and go together perfectly and everything could line up, but if it doesn't you are left with less options.

    Regards Peter.
     

  16. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    Wood Glues don't work on 'not' wood. So keeping them separate during finishing you have to be very careful to not to have any on areas to be glued. But also you'd want to make sure that the finish went right to the very point where the surfaces mated. So extremely accurate taping would be needed. Most finishes require multiple sandings before completion so the tape would be in the way for that.
    Even then if you got things really good your join would not be perfect as the line of the edge would almost read as checking....
    The finish with the whole thing together from the word go blends seamlessly.....no fuss with accurate taping needed.
     

  17. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Sounds like my best bet will be to attach the neck after dyeing the top (and painting the peghead) but before shooting any lacquer.

    One question I have is what I should use to test my bursting abilities- no way I'm going to just put it on the top without a pretty specific idea on concentrations, mixes of colors, etc. Can I just buy a board at Lowe's? I honestly can't remember if they have maple. If not is something like birch close? No pine, cedar, etc., I assume.
     

  18. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    You'll want something of the same shade as maple. If you have sealer, pine might be ok.
     

  19. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Another question: When do you put in the ferrules for the tailpiece and bridge posts? Before or after lacquer? Or maybe there's some trick to keep from getting gunk down in the holes?

    If you're wondering, I'm still staining the back and neck- another coat every night:
    Back.jpg

    So far I've done two coats of the deep color coat and three of the first base coat. Next is three of the second base coat and then clear. I think it looks a little darker, but I may be seeing things that aren;t there.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018

  20. Telzilla

    Telzilla Member

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    Got the first coat of the third color coat on last night- the stuff is noticeably browner than the first two colors. The change is very gradual, but comparing the first coat to the last, it's clearly deeper and browner. Might be some different lighting effects, but still.

    First v last.png
    So two more coats of the third color coat and then on to clear.

    Any thoughts on the ferrules?
     
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