I installed a Faber aged gold locking ABR-1 bridge and Tone Lock tail piece on my 81 LPC tonight. They replaced the stock Nashville bridge and tailpiece that were on the guitar since the day that I bought it brand new, back in... well, 1981. I was going to wait until Sunday, as I'll be playing out tomorrow evening. So, it was a little scary. But, WTF - no guts, no glory! I figured if it wasn't right, I could easily go back. Needless to say - I won't be going back! So, here's a preface to the story... I ordered the parts from CV Guitars early this week. I worked with Larry Corsa to make sure that I had everything that I needed and Larry gave me some pointers & tips on performing the installation. He's a great guy and he's extremely knowledgeable and very helpful. They shipped out the next day and I had them the day following that. But, I live right down the PA Turnpike from Larry's shop. (shameless plug for CV Guitars, who I am in no way associated with) First, the quality of these parts is outstanding. They are well made and solid. The tail pice is easily 1/3 (or less) the weight of the factory one. The ABR-1 bridge is a great example of German mechanical engineering. These are superior quality parts. The aged gold finish that I chose is nicely done and it blends seamlessly with the real aging of my pup covers and other original hardware. It looks like it belongs there. The Installation In short, the installation of both the locking ABR-1 and Tone Lock the tail piece could not have been easier. The tail piece was a simple "unscrew the old, screw on the new" operation. I only needed one washer and the main reason for that was cosmetic, so that you don't see the grey insert bushing. I used the smallest of the 3 pair that come with the tail piece kit. The bridge is secured firmly to the body. Replacing the stock Nashville bridge with the locking ABR-1 was simple and easy, too. I did have to remove the original bushing inserts, to install the iNsert kit bushing/stud combination, that allows use of the ABR-1 bridge. That was accomplished by first removing the existing bridge and then the combination post/wheel. Then, I partially threaded the (supplied) removal screw into the bushing and pulled it out by hand. In theory, you should be able to just thread the screw in, and it will bottom out and push the bushing up and out of the hole. However, my holes were deeper than the screw was long. So, it never bottomed out. No problem, though. The factory bushing pulled out easily, by hand. I guess I could have gone to the garage and found a longer screw that would bottom out... but, that was not needed. After that, I used a hammer to gently tap the combination bushing/post into each of the holes. They fit snugly and yet, did not require extreme force to fit. But, they are in there quite solid and tight. I threaded the wheels onto the posts and dropped the ABR-1 on top. From start to finish, total time = 10 minutes. The most difficult and time consuming part of the process started here. I had to restring and intonate. It took me about 40 minutes to get it all set up: height adjustment, intonation and finally, locking down the ABR-1 to the posts. As you'd expect, the initial positions of the saddles were not perfect, intonation wise. In fact, I have to go back later and flip the saddles around on the G/D strings. I ran out of adjustment travel on those strings. But, they are "close enough" for now. I've attached a few pix at the bottom of this post, showing the completed job. It turned out great. The bottom line... The result was exactly what I had hoped for... more sustain and a deep, full tone, with a noticeable difference (for the better) in the mid-high end. I enjoyed the improvement from the moment that I plugged in and hit those first notes/chords. My guitar was always overly bright. I suspect that the brass saddles are largely responsible for taming that. I also believe that the tight coupling between the bridge + tail piece to the body is bringing out more of the "wood". I can feel the difference acoustically; it resonates nicely when played. It now sounds more clear, a tad warmer and much more "full". Closing thoughts... If you are thinking about making this upgrade, I can highly recommend the Faber parts. They do make a real difference, for the better. And, there is no risk. Worse case, you don't like it and you can go back or, do something else. I hope you enjoyed reading this and that you also like the pictures. EDIT: After this post, I went back and flipped the saddles and lost one of the clips that hold the saddle screws in... Fvck! I shot Larry an email asking if he'd send me a replacement. I'm sure that he will.