Faber Bridge and Stud Video Demo (Before and After)

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by NYC LP player, Jun 10, 2014.

  1. NYC LP player

    NYC LP player Senior Member

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    Headphones, decent volume, and 720p will highlight the differences.

    I used the same strings so no "OMG it was so much clearer and brighter afterwards" cause by a sting change.


    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Zvw4s4vauw]Faber Bridge and Studs (Before, Install, and After) - YouTube[/ame]


    Its a longer one and for those who can't be bothered yes there was a difference. Top is a segment of the AFTER and the bottom if BEFORE.

    [​IMG]

    Even if the Unleash settings weren't spot on the you can see the notes on the top lasting longer. I would describe it as a slowed decay rather than a boost of solid sustain but I still think its a nice upgrade.
     
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  2. Six Gun

    Six Gun Senior Member

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    Wow,
    You were scaring me with your hammer pounds. One little trick I use to install these studs is to coat the studs with Caranuba Wax before you install them. This way they can easily be removed. The Wax does not make it come loose or anything, it just makes it easy to remove. Do not use soap. Also, cut a small 3 or 4" long piece of wood 3/4" x 1" or 1" x 1" and drill a hole in the end of the 1x1" centered so it will slide over the plastic sleeve you pound the stud in. The drilled wooden-Jig will keep the wood onto the stud-plastic sleeve and give the hammer a larger area to hit & higher=up to avoid any missed Hammer swings.

    The Plastic sleeve is 5/16" so I drill a 3/8" hole about 1/4" deep in the end-grain of the 3-4" long 1x1" piece of wood. You can get this wood for free at any Home Depot Rubbish Bin next to the Saw Machine in the Lumber section. There is always scrap there. Pressure treated is nice and hard, works just as well. Any wood will do the job.

    The Caranuba Wax I use is a solid piece they use to polish Wooden Bowls and such on high speed lathes. This wax is not soft and is very hard. You cannot rub it on like car wax. I mostly use it for screw removal by rubbing the threads before the install. Will not cause rusting like soap. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0037MM4PC/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]Carnauba Wax 5-1/2" x 2" x 5/8" - Power Lathe Accessories - Amazon.com[/ame] . One stick will last a lifetime.

    You can also just use any car wax to rub on the stud before you install it into the guitar. I use a Q-Tip and lightly rub the inside of the guitar hole with Car wax before the install. This will insure an easy removal if the stud ever breaks or a problem.

    I installed the Faber Locking Stop-bar and bridge on my 1977 Standard, The Locking system really makes the sustain solid. In this pic you can see the Titanium Saddles, they will last forever.

    [​IMG]


    If anyone ever wants to install a Callaham ABR-1 Bridge on the Guitar, don't use the Callaham Nashville Conversion-Stud, buy a set from Faber and use the Faber Studs. This way the New Callaham Bridge will fit tight on the studs. The Callaham studs are smaller in diameter and will be loose when you use the Callaham Stud-Kit. His dimensions may be Historically correct, but they don't fit tight in the holes.

    After using the Locking Faber Bridge and Stop-Bar Hardware, I will not go to a non-locking system again. I went with the Faber Locking Stop-Bar Hardware with the Callaham Stop-Bar.

    They mix and match well.

    And don't forget to install a new Bone or Ivory Nut, well worth it and a must to get the best system. Don't forget the nut. great Job and keep tuning.
     
  3. NYC LP player

    NYC LP player Senior Member

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    I mention is a part that I edited out the you could probably use to fretboard oil on the leading edge of the studs to smooth entry but at the end of the day it went in easy. I think being on a bed caused the need for a little more force.

    I normally install Tusq XL nuts but this one stays in tune great so I'll probably leave it alone.
     
  4. NYC LP player

    NYC LP player Senior Member

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    Ive heard some mixed reviews on tonal changes from the Callaham TP. Steel vs aluminum and all that. I did not want a brighter guitar.
     

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