Faber ABR-1 Locking. FOR THE WIN!

Discussion in 'The Custom Shop' started by Scero Guitars, May 23, 2016.

  1. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    Thanks Freddy G. I might be in an ICU, but the atmosphere is more like a country club. Great care without the gloom of most hospitals.
     
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  2. KP11520

    KP11520 Senior Member

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    Wow David, I hope you're going to be fine and no permanent damage was done! Please take good care of yourself. BTW, I'll send you a dollar for each Hot Nurse you pinch on the butt. :naughty:

    Two dollars if you get a picture of it! :shock:

    I have used the TonePros Locking Graphtech Saddle Bridge and Locking Aluminum Tailpiece. Remarkable improvement in overall tone, sustain and loudness on my Epi Dot. Dealing with Gil was also a pleasure.

    No experience with Faber.

    I too would like to hear from anyone that has installed both Faber and TonePros in a few situations to know what are their overall opinions comparing the two.

    Hopefully before the sale runs out if Faber creeps ahead of TonePros. LOL
     
  3. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    I am doing great because I am ALIVE!!! My nurses are male so I won't be collecting a dollar or two. My doctor is female, but if I pinch her, she might give me the wrong meds!! just kidding. I am getting great care and am in a quick recovery.
     
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  4. StandardLou

    StandardLou Member

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    You are lucky to have survived.
    My great bass player brother didn't survive a massive heart attack.

    I barely survived an illness that I had no clue was lurking inside me.
    Please everyone be sure to get extensive annual checkups.
    Most health care plans will cover it.

    As to the Faber bridge, they are very well made.
    So is the TonePros, and there are some other very expensive bridges, like the titanium one, that are good too.
    Which one is better is hard to say, but you can't go wrong with either the Faber or TonePros.
     
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  5. needlespauls

    needlespauls V.I.P. Member

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    Ok....
    Annoying and potentially lazy question here Haha....
    I have a 1980 Japanese made Greco Les Paul custom eg1000
    If I wanted to replace absolutely everything and anything to do with the bridge, tail, studs, bushings, etc....
    Which parts what I've been eating? Yes, it is an ABR one system. I might buy the whole shebang
     
  6. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    Faber makes a complete kit. They also have a 20% off sale and today is the last day of the sale. https://www.faberusa.com
     
  7. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    This was my second heart attack. My first one was the bad one. I had 2 stents and my heart went done to 45%. I flatlined once during that heart attack on Jan 6, 2009.

    With this heart attack, my heart went down to 43%. It wasn't a severe heart attack, it was very mild (as far as heart attacks go). I am home now and already did my exercise for the day.
     
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  8. NotScott

    NotScott Silver Supporter Premium Member

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    Dave, best of wishes for your recovery.

    It sounds trivial discussing guitar parts now but, I took advantage of the Memorial Day sale and ordered another Faber to replace a Callaham I have on another LP. I do like the Callaham. However, it makes the guitar respond too fast to my picking. The Faber and other ABRs I have tried all seem to have a bit of lag in their response. Compared to the Callaham, the Faber and vintage type ABRs make the guitar respond like there is a soft compressor on it. The Callaham makes it sound like the compressor is switched out. This compression works great with cleaner guitar sounds and sounds more vintage correct to my ears, but can get a little muddy with metal-level gains and fast picking. They are both great products. They are just different tools for different jobs.
     
  9. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    Thanks
     
  10. StandardLou

    StandardLou Member

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    Best wishes for your recovery.
    Never give up.
     
  11. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    Thanks.
     
  12. Paranoia

    Paranoia Junior Member

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    A quick question here on the topic if I may (and perhaps a bit of a silly one too) - I've gone and gotten myself a Faber ABR too, and like the rest of you, I'm very impressed with the quality, however I'm a bit concerned on installing it.

    I'm looking to try the Mapleflame mod with it on my LP Trad- however, as you'll know the M4 screw actually screws into the bridge itself, unlike the Nashvilles for instance, which just slot in to the hole. This makes the Faber ABR as solid as a rock (probably a whole lot more musical though :p), but it makes me worried about adjusting the bridge height if I'd ever need to - to me, it looks like once it's in, it's staying in, and I'd hate to bork it at this stage.

    How did/would you guys get around that issue?
     
  13. DavidRamey

    DavidRamey Senior Member

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    My Les Paul is an Epiphone 1960's Tribute Plus. I ordered the Faber locking bridge with the E-Sert bushing. Solid as a rock. I have no idea what a Mapleflame mod is, never heard of it.
     
  14. Paranoia

    Paranoia Junior Member

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    I'm sure it has other names - Mapleflame was the username of the guy who popularized it. It's not too different from a standard ABR setup actually, it just replaces the bushings with stainless steel (or brass if you're so inclined) and drills them deeper into the body than Gibson's standard. I've wanted to try this for a very long time now.

    Without wanting to take this thread too far off-topic here, here's a really old thread on it:
    http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/custom-shop/22741-maple-flame-mod-bridge-post-mod.html

    My concerns were less to do with the Mapleflame side of things though, and more with being able to unscrew the bridge from the body again if I ever had to! :D I use their NSWKIT bushings on another LP I'm putting together, and when I had to take that bridge off I had to take the studs out too - but it was removable. If I were to drill the bushings into the body a la standard ABR setup, I wouldn't be able to do that.

    Perhaps if I cut notches in the bushing tops, I could always try and use a screwdriver... :hmm:
     
  15. winexprt

    winexprt Senior Member

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    Just a heads up.

    Faber USA is having another 20% off everything sale today thru Monday. I think I'll finally buy their aged ABRH this time.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. dspelman

    dspelman Senior Member

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    That's probably it, then. All those big, famous records made on Gibsons B.F. (Before Faber) sounded good because they WERE coming through AM radio. And now they're coming through FM (Faber Modulation) and the difference is YUUUUUUGE.
     
  17. NorlinBlackBeauty

    NorlinBlackBeauty Member

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    Glad I happened upon this thread (by searching) as I have been weighing options on what bridge to choose for my beat up less than stable original. I was ready to order a Nashville thinking the extra saddle travel will be beneficial. Seems no one likes them tone-wise.

    The studs on my Norlin are a little wiggly into the wood. What could (should?) I do to firm them up a bit? I was thinking a bit of Teflon tape? Stop me before I do something stupid ...

    Just ordered a Faber Tone Lock in aged gold. Glad they offer aged. The thought of getting a shiny new bridge was a bit much.
     
  18. 1981 LPC

    1981 LPC Senior Member

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    Replace Nashville bushings with Faber iNserts.
     
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  19. RayTorvalds

    RayTorvalds Senior Member

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    +1 I actually have a set laying around, just in case I buy a new LP (type guitar) :naughty:
     
  20. moreles

    moreles Senior Member

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    The sloppy fit of stock Gibson hardware is hard to justify and does have the tonal disadvantages you describe. I snug everything -- both bridge and stopbar, and wraptail on my Junior -- really solidly, using locking studs and, where possible, non-visible (skateboard) washers underneath. As you all report, this results in much -- much -- better transmission of musical vibrations, giving me a much more harmonically-complete tone to work with. All my Gibson hardware wiggles and so gets rejected for Faber, Tone Pros, or even Gotoh, all of them better than OEM. I also replace Kluson machines as I think they've always been an inexplicably crappy choice by Gibson (Cheap?) compared to better-made stuff -- including regular milk-bottle Rotomatics. I find Faber stuff to be better than Tone Pros, which works fine but is overrated, IMO, when it comes to fit and finish. I honestly don't know why Gibson does not provide better hardware as original equipment. Or why they use so much ugly chrome.
     

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