Dulling Poly Finished Guitars PIC HEAVY!!

Discussion in 'Epiphone Les Pauls' started by RMC1, Aug 28, 2008.

  1. Sustainamaniac

    Sustainamaniac Senior Member

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    Yeah, it's unfortunate that the original photos are no longer there. Unfortunately, the OP is almost definitely not coming back anytime soon for a variety of reasons, so the other photos scattered throughout the thread will have to suffice. :(
     
  2. rem22

    rem22 Senior Member

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    The OP is gone, but in fact I was hoping another guy would post some photos
     
  3. Tsquared

    Tsquared Trunk Monkey

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  4. Drako

    Drako Junior Member

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    I was determined to refinish my '97 LP at great expense, when I stumbled across this thread which is nearly as old as my guitar! I'm halfway there and couldn't be happier, so thank you to everyone here who has posted tips.

    I'll be back with pics when done but a quick heads up for UK folk (possibly false commandos : D) - there is Wilkinson rip off of the mouse sander for £22. Doesn't come with a scourer type pad but any ordinary one can be cut to size and stuck on!
     
  5. gsbenke

    gsbenke Junior Member

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    Hi people. Well, this is pretty much my first post.This whole dulling thing is what brought me to MLP. My very shiny LP looked cool when NEW, but now it is OLD and SCRATCHY. It looks a cheap and tired guitar.

    As a birthday gift (today 15/9 :applause:) I decided to dull my LP - very happy with the results, it does feel like a new axe. Whole process took around 6 hours. Next step will be new electronics and pick-ups, it is all stock, not very pleased with it sound-wise.

    I have ZERO experience with DIY stuff. None. At. All.
    Only tutorial video I have seen during my research was from this dude with a blue Les Paul (previously posted a few pages back), he seemed to know as much as I do or less lol
    If you need convincing, go to a Guitar Shop and try some Satin finish Les Paul. If you like it, try the below process at the back of the guitar. Just compare it to the glossy sides. Satin feels 10x better.

    Materials:

    - Synthetic Wool 0 and 000 (Scotch Brite, Norton, 3M... green and grey, respectively), US$3 each
    - Sanding paper 600 and 1200 grit, US$2 each/metre
    - Painters tape (multiple colors found), US$3 or so
    - Ozito sanding machine + 125mm polishing cloth to match it (cheapest machine found), US$30
    - Rustins Scratch Cover for Light Wood, US$10 (I have seen it for darker colours as well)
    - 2 microfiber cloths (one for cleaning dust, one to apply Scratch Cover liquid)
    - Some decent beer
    - Good ol' rock music in the background (preferably played in a Les Paul)


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    1. Got rid of all the hardware except pick-ups (wrapped in painters tape), good opportunity to check for rust and stuff. I have also protected all holes with painters tape from the inside to avoid extra dust.

    2. I did maybe 3-4 rounds with the "0" wool at the back of the guitar, not pushing too hard, always following wood patterns. Just take your time, it is fun. You will see results instantly.

    3. I felt adventurous and went ahead with 600 grit once, then 1200 once. Honestly, I did not like it as much. Steel Wool gives you better control and it is not as harsh. Could have accomplished the same with a few more rounds of Steel Wool "0".

    4. At this point, I knew I would not be using the Sanding Machine for sanding, just polishing. Steel Wool was all I needed. I did a couple more rounds with Steel Wool "000", smoother than "0".

    5. Just repeated the above for all other parts, including headstock. It takes time, but it was a very organic process. Just check how dull it is getting as you go, you may like it a bit more dull so give sanding paper a go on the guitar's neck.

    6. Be gentle with truss rod cover, that Gibson inlay may come off. I felt like dulling my humbuckers with 600 grit, they look fkin cool IMHO. Bridge and tuning machines were left intact (for now). Some screws were so rusty that they won't be going back.


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    7. Once you're done with sanding, just clean everything (including your desk) and get ready to deal with deadly liquids (Scratch Cover)!!

    8. Instructions for Scratch Cover are there for you on the label. Apply it with microfiber cloth, leave it for a few min, then polish. It was looking good so I did like 3 rounds everywhere. My Ozito machine was not as powerful as I thought ($30 piece of sh..) but did the job. I have seen people talking here about using car wax, like Turtle Scratch & Cover. It did not feel right as it says on the label to avoid using it with wood materials.

    9. Take your guitar outside and blow the innards with a hair dryer, then reassemble your hardware after cleaning everything.

    ... hope you guys find this little guide somewhat useful. Photo session below:


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    Headstock may look very scratchy in the pic below.. believe me, it is not as bad.

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    That's it! :dude:
     
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  6. HCRoadie

    HCRoadie Senior Member

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    That looks great! Thanks for the wonderfully detailed post.
     
  7. rem22

    rem22 Senior Member

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    Wow. Perfect. If I had balls i'd do mine...
     
  8. IRG

    IRG Senior Member

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    Looks great, I'd love to do that to my 1960 v3, the poly finish just doesn't cut it.
     
  9. Curmudgeon

    Curmudgeon Senior Member

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    That looks great! I had to laugh at the first pic--I guess "American" ale is imported beer in NZ; it's all relative! :laugh2:
     
  10. Curmudgeon

    Curmudgeon Senior Member

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    I was just thinking the same thing. That would make my Elitist absolutely stunning, but if I screwed up..........:shock:
     
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  11. Drako

    Drako Junior Member

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    Awesome job. Quite happy with mine but that looks pro.
     
  12. rem22

    rem22 Senior Member

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    Same thing here, i wish I had kept my lp100. It was cery resonant, light, and perfecto to experiment a dulling poly thing :)
     
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  13. gsbenke

    gsbenke Junior Member

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    It is made in NZ with American Citra hops and New Zealand bittering hops. Pretty good stuff, priced cheaper than Heineken's.
     
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  14. gsbenke

    gsbenke Junior Member

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    Took my babe out for my 80s Birthday party. Both Slash (myself) and my Steel Panther friend liked it :slash:

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  15. Glebber T. Woodstock

    Glebber T. Woodstock Junior Member

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    I have a 2004 Epi 60th anniversary V1 Les Paul, a new Epi ES-335 Pro, and a Epi Wilshire Pro LE. I am thinking about doing this to the Les Paul and the 335. The Wilshire (brown sunburst) seems OK shiny. The Les Paul and 335 are too glossy to my eyes and I certainly hope all goes well. All of these guitars certainly play well and the necks are great for my big hands. The Les Paul V1 is an absolute beast and is worth far more to me than what I paid ($550 used but in perfect condition with case), I mean Gibson Burstbucker 1 and 2, 50's wiring, switchcraft, that chunky neck and general craftsmanship that is beautiful. Also, for a great es-335 ('63 ?) clone with neck binding and block inlays for $387 plus $109 hard case that sounds and plays wonderful you just can't beat them. The Wilshire is my "SG" type upper fret access guitar that is also quite nice. Back on topic, I will be starting soon on getting that much too shiny Les Paul a little more satiny and will post b4 and after pics.
     
  16. Glebber T. Woodstock

    Glebber T. Woodstock Junior Member

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    I did a section on my Epi 60th Anniversary V1 Les Paul. The part where your arm sort of rests. I was not happy how the beautiful flames on the top lost their "3D" effect with the dulling. Since the the guitar looked virtually unplayed when I bought it I decided to return it to its shiny finish using Meguire's "Ultimate Compound" that I've used for years on anything needing a fine polish. A lot of rubbing but it is back to original state with the flame veneer popping just like before. Just my personal preference. The Wilshire Pro was also used and had sat on a stand in a industrial warehouse (metal supplier) and was covered in dust and dirt film, she polished up new. But the pickups and bridge, tailpiece, etc, had the most beautiful aged nickle finish from the environment. I want to get the Les Paul and ES-335 to look like that without the "chemical thrash" look so many "aged" parts come like today. The shininess of the finish matches the aged nickle look very well.
     
  17. Glebber T. Woodstock

    Glebber T. Woodstock Junior Member

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    I forgot to add that I also used 0000 steel wool to dull the back of the Les Paul neck, that is something that improved the perceived playability immensely. Seems a bit faster now and I will leave it like that. So it is the only part of the guitar where I am happy with the dulling method.
     
  18. Doktor Rock

    Doktor Rock Junior Member

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    Why can't I see the pictures? :-(
     
  19. 07rogersg

    07rogersg Senior Member

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    This thread is from 2008, you can't seriously expect the pictures to still be hosted 8 years later.
     
  20. cilizal

    cilizal Senior Member

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    Sometimes old photos have been deleted or deleted by user, this thread is from 2008....
     

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