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Discussion in 'Pedals' started by TeleDog, Dec 16, 2009.
I'd be very greatfull if you could send me the diagram for the fat boost pedal also. cheers
nice one TD
It could be the LED. Reverse the wires going to the LED, try again. Try that first.
Does it work on bypass? If it does, then check the jumper wire. If that's secure, make sure the in and out from the circuit is correctly wired. If that doesn't work, post again, we'll figure it out.
I had a problem with mine too, it was the LED. I tried again and that did it. When I rewired the pedal to be in its permanent box I just skipped the LED altogether.
Oh, almost forgot, make sure that capacitor in the picture is not touching the back of the pot.
Here's a boost pedal, no tube here.
Awesome man! I think I might order these parts and start to practice soldering.
Do you know any places where I could read more about these so I can know what I'm doing? Thanks.
Okay, question. Is this an OD with no tube or is it an actual boost pedal?
It's a boost pedal with some tonal effects. But it's not a distortion/overdrive pedal. I got also the schematics for say, the Fuzz Face or the OCD, and this is nothing like it.
Okay cool. Just checking.
Would you have any schematics you could post that would show how to change the tone stack from a single tone pot to mutiple pots for bass, mid , treble, or just bass and treble similar to the fat boost II and III or any other pedal. I just really enjoy being able to remove the high end when it's too sharp, and a little bass boost really helps on occasion. cheers, this is fantastic
hey just ordered my parts today. i used the same list as lukemacauly but got the box w/o pre-drilled holes and ordered 15 ft of wire. i already have the right sized drill bits for them and wanted to save money haha ( like 3 dollars ).
still need to order the tube & socket from tubedepot but ill post pictures once the items come in and start putting it all together. thanks for the schematic and idea teledog! ill keep yall posted.
Hey this thing sounds ok. I finished mine. But it really is a booster, sounds like crap in front of a perfectly clean amp. Need to dirty it up a bit then switch it on with the volume on full.
BTW, try searching for 'matsumin valvecaster'. We really need to give credit to where it's due. The 9V schematic started with that japanese dude. Also, try switching out that .047 input cap (the one on pin2) to a 0.010, it seems to give a tighter and clearer sound.
There's another schematic around (real mctube II), but instead of starved plate design (9V powering the plates), he goes with full 140V on 'em using a pair of walwart adapter transformers. Like to try that one in the future.... but the valvecaster sounds great for me at the moment. Was a fun build too.
hey siore what tube did you use? i just ordered a JJ's 12AX7 and cant wait for it to come in ha. i imagine that tube is better than the one he used on the original. i think the tube would play a significant role in the tone
You need to use 18V with this thing! lol..... It's the best way to drive it hard.
The Valcaster is similar to this, but I got this thing from a DIY place, it's supposed to be used with higher voltage, like 18V for better results, although 12V is not a bad idea. Like everything tube related, a 9V battery works, but will starve the pedal.
I've used this with a clean Marshall, it sounded awesome. I used it with a clean SS amp, sounded harsh as hell.
Dude I used a Toshiba 12au7 (probably re-branded, dunno the tube's origin). For around $6, it sounds good!
The layout you posted on page1 (first post) is a valvecaster, based on the cap, pots, and resistor values. This particular design is based on 9v operation. It is a starved plate design, but with the values chosen, it should be well within the tube's operating curves. BTW I also have an 18v power supply. How long do your tubes last with that? I understand that the '12' in the tube name stands for heater voltage spec.
How did you cut the square shape in your enclosure? Working with metal enclosures is not exactly my strong suit.
I've tried the pedal with both 9V and 18V, and 12AU7 and 12AX7. To me, the best sounding combination was the 18W with the 12AU7, followed by the 18W with the 12AX7. Amazingly enough, I still have the same chinese tube and it works fine. Actually, since the pedal doesn't have a real "off" switch (might be a good improvement here, a simple SPST) my tube gets warm even when I ain't using it, and it's still going.
I found a design for a twin overdrive pedal, using the same 12AU7s, what I'm trying to do is change the design to allow for a 2-channel pedal or a two-stage gain, 3 way, all in one pedal. Real close to that now.
I have a pedal that's a little strange if you will, not really a pedal but works like one. It's simply put the preamp stage of an EVJ in a box. I have not posted that here because it needs a transformer and also because you cannot run it with batteries, it needs to be plugged in and grounded.
That one works great, I have it, but it's not the classic stuff you'll find in a pedal, it's quite big, actually, I'm not good at all at working with little tiny boards and stuffing everything there. lol
EDIT: sry i am noob. i can just put 2 9v in series to get an 18v. haha ill post pictures later
heres a pic of the box drilled and ready
and my awesome clamp guy
btw yall are right, 22 awg wire ftl ... need to get stranded wire
heres a pic of the tube socket partially finished
hey so i wired everything up and no sound. I made sure that nothing was grounding out in the tube socket, but yet i have no power to the grid (but there is power to the heaters).... coming out of pin 6 one side of the cap has pwr while the other doesnt (or the wire connecting to the tone). any ideas?
Check your connections bro. It's pretty much a simple circuit and I bet you can tap every connection with something like a chopstick to see if anything is loose. Also, the leads on the resistors/capacitor on your socket looks too long, so that something may be shorting to adjacent components (or ground) there? It's a good idea to keep 'em short.
BTW, you mind sharing how you made holes on the enclosure for the tube socket? Are you gonna paint it?
yeah i one of my caps was bad and i am considering redoing all the connections to the tube socket, those long leads are reallly annoying. my first time doing this so learning as i go.
to make the holes in the inclosure for the tube socket i had bought a set of titanium drill bits and was going to use a 1/2 inch bit, but my drill only holds a max of 3/8. so i just drilled at an angle, in circles, and any possible way till it fit.... oh and i chizzled the shit outta it haha.
yeah i plan on painting it tomorrow or whenever i can get some funds to go get the paint haha. i plan on painting it white and adding vinyl tape offset. ill definitely post final pics.