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Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by jonesy, Dec 19, 2012.
Hi - apologies if this has been answered, but i didnt see it if it was.
I have a 2001 LP Standard, and a 2012 LP Trad Pro, would i have to expand the holes at all to fit a new CTS pot?
Thanks in advance for your reply.
Nope, all Gibsons are already set-up for the 3/8" size CTS pots so you are good to go
(Epi's and other import guitars need to have holes reamed out to 3/8")
Thank you, sir! The Epi comment from someone is what really threw me off?? Would have figured it to be the same.
Any dealer worth recommending over another to buy a CTS pot?
As an MLP Vendor I cannot comment on my products outside the Vendor section.
Look around, CTS makes pots for a lot of people and they all vary in quality, tolerance and taper.
of course, i'm not sure why i didnt pay attention to the links in your signature. Lets just say i am now, and perusing, thanks for your timely responses.
If I want to remove the PCB out of my LPJ 2014,
what type should I use?
I'm interested in this , but it seems no long pots...
Yeah the Gibson LPJ has a carved maple top and takes the long shaft pots.
FENDER SHORT CTS POTS WITH 1/4" THREADS
Quick update on this thread. I have already explained the difference between short pots with 3/8" threads and long pots with 3/4" threads. There is also a 3rd type of pot with shorter 1/4" threads I will call the Fender CTS pots.
The Fender CTS pots with 1/4" threads are designed to be mounted in pick guards and controls plates. The 1/4" threads are not long enough to go through the wood body of a guitar.
If the CTS short pots with 3/8" threads are used in a pick guard or control plate an extra nut needs to be added on the bottom to keep the threads from sticking up to far. (see pics)
Hope this helps anyone upgrading a Fender guitar what type of pots are needed if you are mounting them in the pick guard of a Strat, P-bass or in the control plate of a Telecaster, Mustang or J-Bass
Far Left Fender CTS pot with 1/4" threads
Middle short CTS pot with 3/8" threads
Far Right long CTS pot with 3/4" threads
Left Fender CTS pot with 1/4" threads Right short CTS pot with 3/8 threads
Left, Fender CTS pot 1/4" threads with star washer, dress washer and hex nut for mounting in control plate or pick guard.
Right, short CTS pots 3/8" threads with bottom nut, star washer, dress washer top nut for mounting in pick guard or control plate.
Jonesy, help!! So I ran into the curved top issue on my Epi 2014 LP Standard trying to install the beautiful Switchable Vintage Modern LP wiring (short shaft) that you prewired for me. Bridge tone and volume fit like a charm; neck not so much. What do you suggest?
If you want to exchange that short shaft V/M rig for a long shaft one that is always an option.
Otherwise could remove the star washer from under that pot and see if that helps. Or maybe take a sharp wood chisel and "Carefully" scrape away a little wood from around that pot hole inside the cavity. It should be close, you only need 2-3 threads to stick through the top to get the dress washer and nut on.
Email me or PM me here at MLP if you need help.
Thank you for this excellent tread!
Would you know how to ascertain the value (250k, 300k or 500k) on a vintage Gibson, early 70's, thanks.
Its in the codes at the back of the pot, but how to read the numbers?!
Thanks, Glad you like this thread!
Post the numbers or a pic of the numbers on the pots and I may be able to help you decode them.
Or you can user the pot decoder at this data base
The Guitar Dater Project - Pot Code Reader
Great thread guys, I have a 2014 classic with the circuit board and 15db boost, I intend to remove the electronics and fit CTS 500 or 550k TVT pots and either OIP or orange drop capacitors, I don't want the 15db boost or push pull pots, my guitar is fitted with 57 zebra coil pick ups which I want to retain (may even fit covers to them) I see references to audio taper and log pots which do I need, I am not sure what wiring scheme to go for either vintage or modern, I really like the 80's classic rock kind of sound, any help or advice guys would be very much appreciated before I start the conversion.
What's the best way to ream out the holes on an Epi? Just use a 3/8" drill bit, file it or what?
I think a T handled reamer is the safest method, a few turns on each hole and your done.
If you have to use a drill you want to run it in reverse as to not pull out a big chunk of your top. The only time I drill is with a 335 type guitar where the reamer won't fit down through, so you have to drill or use some sandpaper or rat tail file.
Something like this?
[ame=http://www.amazon.com/Westward-3CYN9-T-Handle-Pipe-Reamer/dp/B001QRJ0M0]Westward 3CYN9 T-Handle Pipe Reamer, 1/8-3/8 In: Hand Reamers: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific[/ame]
Thanks for the help!
Yes, that's it.
Thank you for imparting your vast knowledge
What about for the toggle switch of Epis? I have a Custom LP. Also, in general, would it be better to get a 1MEG instead of 500k pots? I just found a 1MEG and the price was the same with the 500k
Thanks in advance!
Your welcome, glad you found this thread useful
Import guitars for the most part have the cheaper Chinese made toggle switches (they tend to break) so it's usually a good idea to upgrade to a better quality Switchcraft switch and jack with the braided leads. Especially if you are going to change out the pots and caps and plan on keeping the guitar.
1 Meg pots are better for super hot wound pickups that range from 14k -21K (very dark because of all the windings) otherwise you are better off sticking with the 500-550K pots for PAFs and normal Humbuckers. The 1Meg pots will increase the gain but will also make normal pickups sound a bit brittle and bright.
Fender did use some 1 Meg pots in Telecasters in the 1970's, it may have been an attempt to increase the output?? But they only did that for a short time. 1 Meg may be an option with noiseless pickups, but I stay away from them. Hope that helps...