cracked neck

Discussion in 'Epiphone Les Pauls' started by joe19680, Jan 6, 2012.

  1. muddlers

    muddlers Junior Member

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    you can fill the gap with any simple filler (elmers) after you have the nut placed by injecting or simply pushing it in. any filler that sticks will release with heat or little pressure so dont be scared that it will be affixed forever. I only use a drop or 2 of super glue on the fret board side of the nut anyway. watch your string height at the first fret when fitting the new nut i had mine set at 1/64th on both e's. tusqs are usually a little bigger and require a little sanding. good luck man
     
  2. joe19680

    joe19680 Senior Member

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    thanks.. i think the old nut, which was perfect, will still work once i get some filler in that one side and raise it although i ordered a new one... i tried to string the 2 e strings and all they do is lay on the 1st fret no matter how i had it adjusted... and the pressure from the strings dug the nut deeper into the slot.. it deffinitly needs something to make up the space... will get some wood filler in there but will take care not to get it too ugly
     
  3. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Senior Member

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    Here's how I would do it, using the aforementioned wood filler, Durham's Water Putty. Use masking tape to tape the sides of the groove to make a little trough where you will fill the wood. Mix up the filler so that it is about the consistency of cream -- a little thick, but it should flow easily. Pour enough into the groove to fill in the low spots and just cover the high spots. Allow it to fully cure (overnight) and then use a flat file to even everything out and square up the groove. The filler dries rock hard and should provide a good solid base for the nut. It is easy to shape with files or sandpaper. Mixing it thin enough to pour will allow it to form a nice level base.
     
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  4. Phildog

    Phildog Senior Member

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    That's good to know Kyle. I'm sure I'll run into the same situation at some point. So this info is critical. Thanks!!!
     
  5. joe19680

    joe19680 Senior Member

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    okay the fix is finished structure wise... cosmetics will come soon... the crack was a little rough so i just ran some light paper over the rough edges to smooth it out... i used Elmers wood filler in the groove for the nut and shaped that out... got so into this last night i didnt take pics before installing the nut and getting strung up... but the end result is awesome... Phildog, thanks for the push to do this myself! and everyone else that helped as well... i appreciate my guitar a lot more doing this work myself...
     

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  6. Kyle76

    Kyle76 Senior Member

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    Looks, good, Joe! A proper glue joint is usually stronger than the wood itself, so hopefully you've got many years left in that guitar now. Nice job!
     
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  7. jadedsoul

    jadedsoul Junior Member

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    iv just did mine tonight 3rd time... 2 otehr time fools did the jobs... i had a problem getting it str8 and the headstock in line ones you got it all glues up and in line then rests a filling sanding and painting job. o yea my face plate is broke. anybody know of the best way to get of the old off ?? heat ??? luckly as i was tightening a big piece flew off. the plonker who did it last time never glues it properly. if this one dont stay ill be buying a kit and switching out all the epi parts. Picture 3.jpg Picture 8.jpg Picture 11.jpg
     
  8. fumblefinger

    fumblefinger Senior Member

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    As to the truss rod concern, when I do one of these I use a pipe cleaner to push Meguiar's car wax down around the TR and it's channel. You may want to tighten the TR up a bit to do this so it sits up from the channel. Then make sure to loosen it to neutral. You can use an old guitar string end that was cut off to help spread the glue. Tape off as near to the crack as possible. This eliminates excess sanding on glue squeeze out. And you DO want squeeze out. It tells you the crack is fully covered. My cauls have a layer of EPDM or rubber roofing material to keep from marring the good finish and the glue doesn't stick to it.

    I have a jig I made out of plywood that I clamp to the fret board side that helps keep the headstock lined up. Then a caul on the back of the neck with at least 3 clamps. Don't over tighten them! You can push the wood past the mating surface. Guess how I know that. Snug it up and leave it for 2 days. Take the clamping off. Fill the gaps with CA. Then start sanding. Sounds like you want to do a Tru oil finish, so you can sand the whole neck after you get the break area flush. Have fun and if you need anything, pm me.
    IMG_0252.JPG IMG_0257.JPG IMG_1204.JPG
     
  9. fumblefinger

    fumblefinger Senior Member

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    Sorry, I guess that's a little late to be much help.
     
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  10. blueeburg

    blueeburg Junior Member

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  11. blueeburg

    blueeburg Junior Member

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  12. blueeburg

    blueeburg Junior Member

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    Also I have used unwaxed dental floss soaked with titebond. great for working glue deep in neck.
     
  13. paruwi

    paruwi Kraut-Rocker Super Mod Premium Member

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    @blueeburg

    So true....
     

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