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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by billy, Mar 1, 2008.
I have a 97 SG x in wineburst that I want to strip down to bare wood. Will a heat gun remove the finish cleanly or will I need a chemical stripper? Thanks in advance.
We use Zip Strip on nitro and airplane stripper on synthetics.
Hi Greg, I am working on an old beat up Gibson 330 semi-acoustic with the small 'plastic' rectangular inlays and, because the plastic inlays have shrunk and curved at the edges they need to be replaced. I found many suppliers of real mother of pearl rectangular inlays but they are the modern larger type (like on a LP custom) and none of the smaller earlier Gibson rectangular inlays so I decided to buy the larger ones and use my dremel with router bit and StewMac router plunge device to route the fret board for the new larger inlays. I can't find anything in the Guitar Player Repair Guide which speaks to this procedure. How do you go about lining up the new inlays and marking the fret board for routing inlays?
Many thanks in advance
Why not make the new inlays smaller to the fit the routes? Why bitch up a perfectly good fretboard?
About inlays on an old Gibson ES 330. I considered reducing the size of the inlays but I'm not sure I have the tools to cut/shave the inlays without breaking them. Note that the ES-330 has very shallow routing for the original plastic inlays. Greg, if you could enlighten me on how best to resize these inlays I'll do that. I will still probably deepen slightly the current inlay routing, but sure, I'd prefer to keep the original size; that would be optimum. Also, if you could tell me what glue you would use that would be great. Thanks!
Sand paper and small files. Unless you are cutting from a big blank or from the shell, you do not need a special cutter. Just be careful with MOP dust. Wear a mask or better yet wear a mask and have a vacuum port.
I do not think that will work for MOP. It's too coarse and not enough support.
more like this -
PS - but if you do not need to cut a big sheet just use sand paper. I think epoxy is usually used for gluing inlays. You can tint it with dust from the board or use dyes.
80 wet or dry grit sandpaper and a flat surface. Work with water to keep the heat from compromising the material.....just go back and forth and reduce the size of the part. Then sand them thinner so that they will fit nicely in the routes, making sure to keep the top at a 12 in radius. Clean out all the glue from the route, put in a drop of Titebond 1 and press the inlays into the routes. Clamp and ignore for a day. Level them to the board and play the hell out of the guitar!!!!
I built a Buldog kit Les Paul several years ago and it's served me well with constant playing, but the frets have worn badly. I have recrowned them a few times and am about to do it again, BUT it's probably the last time. They pretty much match my real LP fretless wonder right now, and I don't play it as much because of that.
I'm going to check out the refretting threads, but while i'm at it I thought about changing the fretboard radius to 10. I prefer the feel of the PRS radius, so that's what i'm going for.
All that to ask:
What do I do about the inlays?
Can I sand right through them and hope they are thick enough. Do I pull them out. If so, How?