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Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by billy, Mar 1, 2008.
How can I be of service? I have extensive bench experience fixing virtually any brand and type of guitar and bass, and also do a lot of Croatian instruments like Tamburas and Brac(pronounced Brotch).
Ask away, and I will gladly offer up my best opinion (and take swipes at Roman) without breaking a sweat.
Ok, question #1. I have a korean squier telecaster that I am going to make a new body for. I don't hate the neck, so I am going to keep it, but refret it and re-camber the board to 12" radius.
Question 1: What are the chances the fret slots are actually the right size for american fretwire? And how do I go about pulling the frets in a way that I won't have to glue the new ones in?
Question 2: This i an all maple neck, do I just spray right over the frets and then scrape it off (if so, when do I scrape?)?
The frets slots probably won't be a problem. Remove the old frets and reradius the board. Then resaw your frets slots(the center area will be too shallow after the radius change). When you are ready to install the new frets, brush water thin crazy glue LIGHTLY into the slots and let it dry. 10 minutes should be enough. The water thin will slightly plump the grain, and then harden, giving you a better seat for the fret tangs.
I spray over the frets and then scrape the lacquer using a nail with a slot ground in that matches the shape of the fret.
Great idea for a thread, Greg!
I'm copying Roman.
Got any 60s Firebird mini hum rings lying around your parts bin, GP?
What is the best way to remove frets from maple? just up and out? (never done a refret before, only a fret)
While we're talkin' maple, How do I get residual black paint out of end grain without sanding away the shape that I'm trying to preserve? It was a painted, large Strat' headstock that I've stripped and cut down to the smaller profile. The problem area is above the nut, either side of the truss rod.
Will stripper draw it out?
Jay, call me. I may.
Removing frets on imports with maple boards is difficult but doable. Heat them with a soldering gun until the finish starts to get shiny around the fret. While it's warm, gently lift each end and work across to tickle it out. When all of the frets are out, if you are keeping the finish, level sand the board with 1000 grit dampened with alcohol to get rid of scooters. Install the new frets, wipe the board down with naptha to remove any grease or fingerprints and lightly spray a reduced coat of finish to flow out the scuffed lacquer on the board. Scrape off the frets carefully and you are done.
Now, if you are refretting a board with finger digs through the finish and you want it to stay looking played, paint the gouges with paste wax before spraying the finish, and then after the lacquer dries you can just wipe away the wax/finish crap and you still have the wear marks!
Zip Strip. Use Q-tips and apply it, heat lamp it to warm the area(but not so close that you evaporate the stripper). 3 or 4 applications (wiped clean in between) will get the majority of it. If you have to, rub a little tan paint across the area before finishing, the tan will soak into the endgrain and minimize the black.
Mind if I jump in here Greg??
70s fender frets were "slid in"
They pushed them into the slot from the side marker side.
To get them out without ripping up the maple, you dremel a place to dig into the fret and hammer them out in the same direction they were installed with a small dull chisel.
I'll let Greg elaborate
Yeah. He's doing an import, Greyman!
50's to 70's Fender frets are better left to pros.
My bad, I didn't read the whole thread
Tell whoever you pay to read this stuff to you that you expect better.
Yeah, I am going to have to give Amber crap.
you Be Nice To Her, Boy!!!!!
Hey! What's Roman doin' in YOUR thread?
Thanks for the advice, Greg, eye-uh-pre-she-ate-it.
question about pots. i recently got an orville, but it has small 14mm 500k pots in it. so im thinking of changing to full size, but will the 24mm pots make a difference in tone even though they are the same value? also does gibson use 300k or 500k pots in their les pauls?
I use Hamer's custom taper 500k pots for the volume and regular CTS 500k for the tone.
CTS uses a wider carbon path than those teensy crap pots, so they are smoother and more progressive.