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Discussion in 'Pickups' started by rockinlespaul, Dec 20, 2017.
How hard is it to change a lead wire on a pickup? Normal vintage style 2 wire.
Thanks in advance!
It should be easy. The most important thing IME is not to tug on or twist the little lead wires that come out of the bobbins, because a couple twists and they can easily break due to their small gauge and solid core. So when you open the thing up and remove the four retaining screws, just try to leave it sitting on a table or work bench, and then flop bobbins away from the base plate, together at the same time:
Then you can access the cable without tugging or twisting the coil leads.
It's probably best to unsolder the lead wire first, and then go for the braded shield after. You have to pull up on the braded cable as you melt the solder, so that it will break free as you go. Keep in mind that the base plate and cable will both get really hot in the process.
I'm really starting to think you do this stuff on purpose to troll. The leads that hook the coil wire to the braided shield and baseplate on a PAF and replica are NOT solid core. They are 7 strand twisted AWG 20 or AWG 22 hookup wire. I've never repaired a common PAF-style humbucker that had solid core leads here. That would be a terrible design flaw. Only some rare Lawrence designs and oddballs used solid buss wire because of proprietary hookup methods to pins/PCB/etc. The entire point of using those wires, rather than connecting the coil wire directly, is to provide a robust and flexible connection to the larger components and not stress/break the thin coil wire. This is why stranded wire is used and solid core would make no sense.
If they look solid to you, Antigua, it's because the tips are covered in solder holding the strands together and you've not cut enough (or any) of them or repaired/built enough (or any) to know better and shouldn't be giving advise on such to others.
Hey Fred, it's not hard if you're handy with a good hot and clean soldering iron and have steady hands that can work with delicate parts. On pickups like PAFs and mine, with threaded baseplates, you will need to back the pole screws out past the base plate and remove the two brass screws under the screw bobbin. Then you can lift the screw coil. Take care when putting the screw bobbin back on that it's pressed firmly and squarely against the magnet and the screws are all snug and evenly tightened, to leave no gap. A gap here can result in feedback. Don't yank on any of the little black wires too hard, as they can come disconnected from the thin coil wire in some less robust designs. If it's mine, it's pretty robustly attached with a near-full turn on the outside, under the tape.
Also, if you'd like, I'd be happy to do it for free for you to save you the stress. Whether it's my pickup or not. I'm happy to do it for you, just cover the shipping.
OK, they're not solid core, but they do break very easily. You get in a bunch over the smallest things.
All the small things coming from the same source add up.
...and I disagree that they break easily. I regularly work on ~60 year old pickups and that's not even a remotely common point of failure.
Maybe your annoyance adds up. I can't do anything about that, though.
It stands to reason that when you work with something for a long time you become less likely to break it.
It still wasn't a point of failure in the beginning, and I'm also regularly cleaning up the "repairs" of others and it just plain is not a point of failure. The ONLY time I've had one of those wire break was a dog ear P-90 because the owner installed the pickup in such a way that the wire was pinched under the baseplate and was severed by extreme sheer force.
You just CANNOT admit when you are wrong. Always find a way to backpedal. This is one reason you are not taken seriously.
Please stop doing a disservice to the community by continuing to give bad pickup advise and promote theories as facts.
I stand by what I said, those wires are very delicate. If they break, the insulation has to be stripped back so that they can be resoldered, or otherwise reconnected, which is difficult to do when the leads are so short to begin with. Torquing and tugging between the base plate and the bobbins can lead to that outcome.
James, you fukin kick ass.
What the hell did I miss?!!! LOL
This guy has a grudge against me. Just be careful with the little wires when you take thing apart.
This is for a Gibson pickup by the way.
Not against you. Just your continued spreading of misinformation. However, the fact that you've been asked to stop by several and corrected over and over, yet you continue to do it anyway, does make it seem personal to you, in a way.
I said the tiny wires were solid instead of stranded, someone call the Internet police.
The reason I gave the advice that I did was because I've broken those wires a couple times while testing pickups, and though I was careful, I had moved the coils around so many times that the wire just became weak and snapped. If someone is less careful, I could see the wire breaking much more quickly.
Stop focusing on one little detail. I could link dozens of threads where you gave mis-information and those who frequent here know it.
What has transpired at other times and in other places is of no concern to OP, and doesn't belong in this thread.
Not your call to make. You're deflecting again. Report me if you don't like it.
I'll continue to correct you and call you on your BS every time you do it, for the sake of the unknowledgeable reading and taking your nonsense as fact, until I'm asked to stop.
I don't think mistaking solid for stranded wire rises to the level of "BS", and anything else that might have been said elsewhere.. was said elsewhere.
But not learned from seemingly......honestly how hard is it for you to learn??
Not only do you post misinformation (across several forums) but you are continually too insecure to admit fault as well.