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Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by hillbilly, Apr 8, 2009.
What are the size differences between the f-holes in a 339 vs. a 335...
ha, tubing on the pots...genious bye bye floss
Just finished my first semi-hollow re-wire on my new to me 1994 Ibanez AS80. All new electronics, CTS pots, Switchcraft switch and jack, Gibson Classic 57/57+ set for pickups. Thank god for the internet, or I can't even imagine having tackled this job. Like building a ship in a bottle. Slow and steady with the right tools, (aquarium tubing,) and she came out great. Big improvement in the tone department, and so much more control with the better pots.
Also, big shout out to hillbilly for this thread and his video showing how it all works. Couldn't have done it without you. No entry through the bridge pickup on this one, had to squeeze through the f-hole, and with big old PIO caps, it was somewhat of a feet.
Tech tip: Some mellow jazz cranking in the background helped slow me down enough to get it right the first time.
"Dude, come check this out, this guy on the Internet made his guitar into a bong!"
"Whoa, quad pot shafts!"
Spent an entire day last year rewiring a 335--wish I would known about this then. I guess I can now reconsider my "NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER AGAIN!" decision
A few years ago, we had an old 335 come in for a set of new electronics. The pots were enclosed in 'cans' inside the guitar, stock. We had to cuts the cans open with a Dremel tool through the F-hole (ever play the game 'Operation'?)... ...and remove the electronics through the F-hole...
That's how they took out my wisdom teeth!
Heres another video
& enlarging the holes on a import
I'm about to cry. I just completed mine and have no sound. Just a buzz when I touch either pickup with my hand, no sound other than that.
I used kite string to install everything, wasn't so bad, but the whole time thought about how good it would be to never have to do again.
I hate the idea of taking it all out and doing it over. Any ideas what might be wrong based on my symptoms, guys?
Great Thread. Any pointers with regard to vintage wiring scematics for a semi hollow?
Im trying to rewire my 137 classic, but besides pots and caps I have no clue the difference between vintage and modern wiring for a guitar like this.
Any help would be much appretiated.
One thing I always do is attach the pickups to the harness and test it OUTSIDE the guitar before I even begin installation.
To answer your question, it sounds like you have something hooked up backwards...make sure your pickups' hot/'+' is going to the leg of the pot, and the pickup's ground going to the back of the pot. Make sure your switch is wired correctly, too...
Check your signal flow: pickups--->Volume pot 'in' (lower leg)--->Volume pot 'out' (middle leg)--->Switch 'in'--->Switch 'out' to jack.
You can >contact me< if you have any other questions...
'Vintage' & 'Modern', to me, are just words to describe 'warmer' and 'brighter'...I like 50's/'Vintage' wiring with PIO caps.
I just got an Ibanez AS73 this week and at some point, i'd love to upgrade the pups and harness, but, since i have NO skill wiring at all, I can't imagine how much it's going to cost me to have someone to do this for me, lol..
Amazing job you did on the 335 Billy. I'm in the same position now, but with a 135, who apparently went out and had a swim... In muriatic acid, thus needing a complete wiring overhaul. (There are more issues, like a maestro vibrola *facepalm*, mounted 5mm off-axis *double facepalm*, secured with glue to the top *triple facepalm*)
I have a question about the black tubing/heat shrink around the wires to the pots. Is that of any particular use (groundloops?), or just for aesthetics (and it can be neglected)?
(The F-holes are too small for the CTS pots to come through (especially because the groundwires are mounted on the side of the pot, giving me an extra 3mm of sheer joy whilst trying to pull them out of a cavity half the size of a soapbar P90 )
Wow! Those are some nasty looking pots!
I'm not Billy, but the black tubing (or heatshrink) is used as an insulator to prevent the outer shield (ground) from touching any "hot" leads on the pots (which could inadvertently happen as the electronics are pulled through to their respective holes). In theory, it should not be necessary in a perfect world, but it's cheap insurance given the effort that is normally required to finish a hollowbody rewire...
Yeah, they are in a pretty bad shape... Delicious static crackle and hiss when you tried to turn them
The headstock also had it's share!
Thanks for the explanation on the tubing. I don't have any tubing here at home, but I will recycle some from the old wiring to secure the most crucial points.
dude... that is friggin genius! killer thread!
Thanks so much for this! I followed the process last night and it went very smooth!
Wow! Two vintage caps per pickup!
Always wanted to do that to any of my guitars!!
BTW, you killed my GAS for a 335
Sorry it took so long for me to respond to the thread....I'm a busy man....
The heat-shrink is there so parts won't ground-out against each other by accident. You never know how things are going to 'move' on the install, or with years on the road, moving, bumping, playing, packing....etc....all it takes is one part that shouldn't touch another part, and then ..>DEAD SHORT<...no signal....
The braided wire is also routed/soldered around the OUTSIDE of the pots for a cleaner installation, as one of my pet-peeves is to see wiring through the F-hole....
You should do a similar thread on a complete re-wire job on an LP.
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