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Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by hillbilly, Apr 8, 2009.
Now if I ever have a 335 I need to re-wire I'll know what to do...
This whole operation reminds me of how the Egyptians extracted the brains from a pharaoh before embalming them for entombment in a pyramid.
That's where it comes from.
I'm going to do something similar to a Chinese Epi Casino. Any advice??
I did one of those a couple of months ago...you have to go through the F-holes instead of the bridge pickup route. You have to angle the pots to get them in the F-hole; it's a tight fit, but you can do it. I got 2 SuperPots & 2 push/pulls in there with just a little bit of fiddling...
That would be a nice kit. Vintage and Modern wiring switched with a push pull pot.
I used dental floss to wire both of mine. But that looks really cool...
Great thread, Billy--worthy of stickiness...
You should do a similar thread on a complete re-wire job on an LP.
Billy's instructions helped me with my 335 change over and the RS kits sound great. You have to have a real love for this stuff or be demented to do it more than once though....LOL. I had to feed everything through the F-holes which was tough to do w/o damage. Definitely takes allot of patience and time.
It also helps to have fingers that are eight to nine inches long with four knuckles each, all of which will bend in both directions.
Hillbilly good work thanks for the effort.
There in lies the reason I never got one of these cool guitars.
I used fishing line to do my washburn hollowbody. I like the tubing idea. No matter what you use, take your time, it is a pain for sure. I had to go through the f holes too. I got pretty stressed, my wife said why don't you get somebody else to do it?
i have a couple of hamer newport pros that i have changed pickups on. it is very frustrating to say the least. nice tips. i always have chop sticks, stiff wire with a "j" hook formed on 1 end and a few other tools that come in handy.
This is a huge knowledge base. It has taken a little time to lock the door and read through all of the posts to get me straight, but that is a small investment compared to jumping in and bugging it up.
I am working on a Dot (Korea) with an entire electronics rebuild including pickups and am thinking about the Epi Les P next (another Korea).
Thanks for those posting schematics, drawings, pictures and war stories. Great help.
Superb thread, thanks Billy.
When i do my Casino, im going to mask around the f-holes with insulating tap to protect the edges somewhat....
Patience was never my strong suit, gona have to learn some!
Very useful! Great thread, thanks for all the help!
What a great thread! Thanks to Billy and all the others who have contributed and given plenty to "think about" before diving into this project.
I finally had time to dive into my 335 project (wife's out of town). As others have alluded to, the "wife's out of town" comment is no joke - give yourself PLENTY of time and be PATIENT. I can remember rewiring my first Les Paul -- took me about 3 or 4 hours. I can now do it in about 45 minutes (same with Strats -I can build up a pickguard in about an hour). Point is, I think I've become fairly proficient at wiring and soldering. But, this was my first 335. Entirely different animal. I did it in two parts. I built the harness last night (about 3 hours) and got it, uhhh, (fished, stuffed, jammed, crammed), I mean, installed today (about another 3 hours).
The guitar is a '91 Greco SA-59. Beautiful guitar, but like many Japanese, the pickups and electronics were lacking. I installed RS pots (taken out of my Orville LP - now that one sounds like crap - guess I'll have to buy some more RS pots afterall). I wanted to put high quality stuff in right the first time (and never again). I ran pickup leads from the pots to the pickup cavities so I can change pickups down the road if I choose (presently using old SD 59's with Alnico II mags).
A few observations I hope may be of help to others:
1. Enlarge your holes to make it easy to pull the components up through the top. Now easy, fella...we're not talkin' about going up a full bit-size or anything. I used a Unibit (step drill) and drill bit to enlarge my holes from the Japanese spec to the american spec. Thing is, the holes are now JUST the right size for inserting a pot...assuming you're holding it between your thumb and two fingers. But, when you're trying to pull it up through with plastic tubing, dental floss, fishing line, or whatever, it's a whole 'nother story. DO YOURSELF A FAVOR: enlarge the hole SLIGHTLY and things will go much easier. Use whatever you've got. A Dremel works great, or you could use a fine round rat-tail file.
2. PRACTICE FIRST! Before you try to get the entire harness in, start out by using your chosen "puller" (tubing, string, etc) with a single, un-wired pot. This will give you an idea what it's going to be like. Keep in mind that when it's part of the harness, that pot is likely to be encumbered by all the stuff attached to it. So, practice first to get a feel for it.
3. TOOLS. To add to Billy's list, I found that having a few medical-style "clamps" came in handy:
As expected, not everything went perfectly. After getting the bridge tone in, the tubing came off the neck tone. That's where the medical clamps came in handy. First of all, the washers had fallen inside the body. They weren't magnetic, so I reached in with the clamps to get 'em. Then I used the clamp to grab onto the pot and guide it up to the hole. These clamps are narrow enough to give you a little manuevering room when working through the f-hole; most needle nose plyers are too bulky. I found these at an online electronics supply house. I used a pair of needle-nose plyers to grab it on the top side (be careful here - only grab the shaft with plyer jaws perpendicular to the slot. That is, don't squeeze in such a way that you might squeeze the two halves of the shaft together - you can break the shaft this way). The other "major" problem I encountered was that, as I manuevered, pushed, and manipulated the assembly through the restricted bridge pickup cavity, one of the leads from the nice .010 Russian PIO caps I bought from Jonesy had broken right near the cap body. This cap has a relatively fine lead wire. I may be able to salvage it, but in the meantime I put another foil-in-oil cap in with stouter leads. Luckily, I was able to do this soldering through the f-hole.
Also in the picture is the wire-with-a-nut-on-it I used to fish the input jack (I think Billy described this) - my guitar has the input jack on the top. Here's the final result:
I was in an out of an Epi dot today in about 20 minutes...through the F-hole, even...
Of course, I have pre-wired harnesses ready to go...
I wish my wife was "out of town" a little more often...