1955 Les Paul Junior Single Cut Build

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by shickma0, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. mangus

    mangus Senior Member

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    true, but for me that's not cheap either( I don't do much teaching). Still, at that price even I could afford it if it weren't plus international shipping, plus customs fees... I could still afford it but.. it stops being such a good deal
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2017
  2. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    Haha! I wondered how good the Kits really were given the price, I expected closer to 5-600$ for the body and neck alone for the quality people were claiming with the PGK packages. They seem to be pretty amazing so far for the price and I haven’t found anything sketchy yet so hopefully it stays that way.
     
  3. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    3E746A7B-8D82-4EDD-A841-8CDA9A4AE0F1.jpeg
    Did a quick test of how the colors would layer. Looks okay as far as colors but I might make the yellow brighter. Additionally the “burst” edge is really sloppy as this was only a color test and all of this will be covered with a white nitro base coat anyways before final spraying. But I do plan on making the burst edge thinner and doing a bit of black on the very edge.
     
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  4. bluesriffdev

    bluesriffdev Member

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    Another option would be to cut a bell shaped cover but leave it flat at the end, and sand it to be angled with the nut so it sits perfectly flush and doesn't move, allowing for just 1 screw at the top rather than the ugly (imo) 3 screw cover. Edwards Les Pauls do this but they aren't bell shaped.

    I'm thinking of making a custom 1-screw bell-shaped TRC for my Edwards.
     
  5. Al Walker

    Al Walker Senior Member

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    I used a Philadelphia Luthier Tools Epiphone TRC and had them put Junior in Gibson script. Not period perfect, but, works (3 screws instead of 2)
    [​IMG]
     
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  6. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    784C7961-5291-48C4-A7BB-3D321E6EC4A9.jpeg Taken on the phone again, but got the white nitro primer on after 2 coats/passes? Of grain filler. Primer needs an hour to dry before a second coat and then 24 hours before color
     
  7. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    85A1DC72-6260-469A-828B-C83F68AF50EC.jpeg Well apparently I misread the can. The white nitro I used as primer is actually just the normal stuff for color. So I waited an hour for that to dry then sprayed the yellow. Then sprayed a mist of clear to protect it. That’s just dried for an hour and now I’ve sprayed the burst edge. In 2 hours I’ll be able to sand the center to remove some overspray but I’m very satisfied with the color of the center which was my original concern with this kit build.
     
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  8. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    Any colour of nitro is just normal colour you can use anywhere. But you need the white first so the yellow becomes solid colour and not a stain.

    I would be very wary of any sanding......it can end up looking really crap very quickly.
     
  9. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    Thanks for the response! I originally thought that the can was of a mixture of vinyl and nitro. vinyl sealer and nitro are different correct? I would assume so but I’m totally new so I’m not certain. And with the don’t sand I learned that one the hard way in the past. That’s why I sprayed the clear over the yellow so I hopefully have a little bit of room to sand off the overspray in the center without touching the color. I’m using 600 grit to hopefully not make it to obvious. If you had any other suggestions for keeping the burst center clean it would be very much appreciated. Thanks again for the reply!
     
  10. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    Sealer has a portion of nitro in I think....or so I remember. But it has many other thicker components that makes it build quickly and fill holes/grain.
    Coloured nitro will simply go on the same way nitro does, and be very thin.

    As to the overspray......well its a tricky one. Typically spraying a burst you barely touch the edge with the burst spray (angling the gun so most of it 'misses') and you avoid the issue of the overspray going too far inward. I have done the sand back thing on a couple of early bursts before I had the technique down and I can tell they are not so seamlessly smooth on the edge with the colour transition. Try using a really thin mix of nitro.....say 75% thinner and see if you can disperse the tobacco droplets out. Then try some more yellow in the middle to further cover them.
    This will only work if you have a gun of course. Using cans you are kind of stuck really.
     
  11. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

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    I’ll try the thing with the gun as I’m using an HVLP gun for everything but the white. I’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice
     
  12. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

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    Thats good. Cans are pretty crap for bursts or touchups if you are just beginning.
     

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