1955 Les Paul Junior Single Cut Build

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by shickma0, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. mangus

    mangus Senior Member

    Messages:
    384
    Likes Received:
    20
    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2012
    true, but for me that's not cheap either( I don't do much teaching). Still, at that price even I could afford it if it weren't plus international shipping, plus customs fees... I could still afford it but.. it stops being such a good deal
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2017
  2. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Haha! I wondered how good the Kits really were given the price, I expected closer to 5-600$ for the body and neck alone for the quality people were claiming with the PGK packages. They seem to be pretty amazing so far for the price and I haven’t found anything sketchy yet so hopefully it stays that way.
     
  3. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    3E746A7B-8D82-4EDD-A841-8CDA9A4AE0F1.jpeg
    Did a quick test of how the colors would layer. Looks okay as far as colors but I might make the yellow brighter. Additionally the “burst” edge is really sloppy as this was only a color test and all of this will be covered with a white nitro base coat anyways before final spraying. But I do plan on making the burst edge thinner and doing a bit of black on the very edge.
     
    yamariv likes this.
  4. bluesriffdev

    bluesriffdev Senior Member

    Messages:
    134
    Likes Received:
    73
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2014
    Another option would be to cut a bell shaped cover but leave it flat at the end, and sand it to be angled with the nut so it sits perfectly flush and doesn't move, allowing for just 1 screw at the top rather than the ugly (imo) 3 screw cover. Edwards Les Pauls do this but they aren't bell shaped.

    I'm thinking of making a custom 1-screw bell-shaped TRC for my Edwards.
     
  5. Al Walker

    Al Walker Senior Member

    Messages:
    896
    Likes Received:
    839
    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2014
    I used a Philadelphia Luthier Tools Epiphone TRC and had them put Junior in Gibson script. Not period perfect, but, works (3 screws instead of 2)
    [​IMG]
     
    D'tar and shickma0 like this.
  6. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    784C7961-5291-48C4-A7BB-3D321E6EC4A9.jpeg Taken on the phone again, but got the white nitro primer on after 2 coats/passes? Of grain filler. Primer needs an hour to dry before a second coat and then 24 hours before color
     
  7. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    85A1DC72-6260-469A-828B-C83F68AF50EC.jpeg Well apparently I misread the can. The white nitro I used as primer is actually just the normal stuff for color. So I waited an hour for that to dry then sprayed the yellow. Then sprayed a mist of clear to protect it. That’s just dried for an hour and now I’ve sprayed the burst edge. In 2 hours I’ll be able to sand the center to remove some overspray but I’m very satisfied with the color of the center which was my original concern with this kit build.
     
    Al Walker likes this.
  8. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

    Messages:
    11,121
    Likes Received:
    6,276
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Any colour of nitro is just normal colour you can use anywhere. But you need the white first so the yellow becomes solid colour and not a stain.

    I would be very wary of any sanding......it can end up looking really crap very quickly.
     
  9. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    Thanks for the response! I originally thought that the can was of a mixture of vinyl and nitro. vinyl sealer and nitro are different correct? I would assume so but I’m totally new so I’m not certain. And with the don’t sand I learned that one the hard way in the past. That’s why I sprayed the clear over the yellow so I hopefully have a little bit of room to sand off the overspray in the center without touching the color. I’m using 600 grit to hopefully not make it to obvious. If you had any other suggestions for keeping the burst center clean it would be very much appreciated. Thanks again for the reply!
     
  10. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

    Messages:
    11,121
    Likes Received:
    6,276
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Sealer has a portion of nitro in I think....or so I remember. But it has many other thicker components that makes it build quickly and fill holes/grain.
    Coloured nitro will simply go on the same way nitro does, and be very thin.

    As to the overspray......well its a tricky one. Typically spraying a burst you barely touch the edge with the burst spray (angling the gun so most of it 'misses') and you avoid the issue of the overspray going too far inward. I have done the sand back thing on a couple of early bursts before I had the technique down and I can tell they are not so seamlessly smooth on the edge with the colour transition. Try using a really thin mix of nitro.....say 75% thinner and see if you can disperse the tobacco droplets out. Then try some more yellow in the middle to further cover them.
    This will only work if you have a gun of course. Using cans you are kind of stuck really.
     
  11. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    I’ll try the thing with the gun as I’m using an HVLP gun for everything but the white. I’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the advice
     
  12. ARandall

    ARandall Senior Member

    Messages:
    11,121
    Likes Received:
    6,276
    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2012
    Thats good. Cans are pretty crap for bursts or touchups if you are just beginning.
     
  13. shickma0

    shickma0 Junior Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    5
    Joined:
    Apr 25, 2017
    3804C3EA-252E-49DC-B719-2A774D6DAFBD.jpeg 96993F6A-E48B-4FCE-A631-E9F42C3708D6.jpeg Long time no update. So here’s where I’m at. Basically the burst wasn’t turning out as clean as I would have liked so I completely stripped and restarted it. I went with a paint job similar to Billie Joe Armstrong’s RnR relic guitar. It’s white and black nitro that I plan to do some light aging to. I know it’s a pretty controversial topic with the whole “artificial aging and relicing” but the way I see it it’s like choosing a certain paint job, it’s an asthetic choice that some people will like and other won’t. It gets pretty cold here during winter so in about a month once the lacquer cures and it’s cold enough I’ll take it outside and leave it overnight with the trussrod loosened so it doesn’t snap and then bring it inside to hopefully check the lacquer a bit. Nothing much but I’d like it to have some of that vintage look. If anyone has other ideas on how to do it I’d love to hear them because there have to be tons of way. I’m not looking to do the air duster method though because it looks really REALLY artificial and kind of ugly in my opinion because it’s more spider webesque as opposed to the long cracks from the expansion and contraction of the wood. Here’s the pics. Thanks for reading. -S
     

Share This Page