“Jimmy Page – like” wiring a Tribute Plus, blow-by-blow wiring demo with photos

Discussion in 'Tonefreaks' started by hotzlaw, Aug 4, 2013.

  1. blues360

    blues360 Junior Member

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    Hi Hotzlaw this is my first post here and it is very spooky that I saw your post as I have the same model and colour tribute+ as you and at this moment I am awaiting parts to arrive from Axetec from the UK in order to do the Jimmy Page Mod. I have ordered the same caps as you and ordered 4 push / push pots I was going to use their wiring diagram until I saw yours which incorporates the 50's wiring which I will try so thank you for posting. I am replacing the 57 Pups in my Tribute + with Iron Gear Tesla sharks as I find the 57's a little harsh and struggle to get the bridge and neck volume (pup height) set up I prefer not to have my pups right up under the strings as an old blues/rock player I like some dynamics and like to adjust volumes on the guitar for OD and tone so am looking forward to try the 50's wiring as I lose a bit of top end when I roll off the volume.

    cheers
     
  2. Ed B

    Ed B Senior Member

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    Awesome thread!
     
  3. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Hey blues360, good luck with the wiring and have fun with the mod.

    Let us know how it works out for you!

    Cheers
     
  4. blues360

    blues360 Junior Member

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    Well managed to get it all soldered up and it is all sounding good the only thing I can not do for some reason is coil tap the neck humbucker but I am not so worried about that as all the other options work and I am not so sure I would use it much anyway.

    The 50's wiring has made a difference I can now use OD on my amp and go from clean with the vol pots turned down to OD of various flavours depending were the vol pot is on the guitar . I like the parallel wiring it gives a kind of boost with the both pickups and also gives slightly more girth to the lower notes when out of phase is switched. I can also now attempt to do Peter Green/ Albert Collins/Albert King impressions with the out of phase setting and coil tap the bridge on either coil by using the phase pot.

    It has made my tribute a more versatile guitar so thanks for posting Hotzslaw

    Cheers

    Bob
     
  5. Alligatorbling

    Alligatorbling ★AstroCat★ Premium Member V.I.P. Member MLP Vendor

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    :applause::applause::applause::applause::applause::applause:
     
    1 person likes this.
  6. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Well Bob, I'm glad that it makes a difference for the better.

    I'm wondering, are you using audio or linear taper volume pots?
    You seem happy with the taper.

    The coil split for the neck pup works by breaking the series pickup connection.

    What happens when you pull the switch?
    Perhaps we can fix it, it's likely just a wire that is out of place.

    Cheers!
     
  7. blues360

    blues360 Junior Member

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    Hi Hotzlaw

    Thanks for reply. I have used Log pots for the volume and Linear for the tones. I have had a bit of time to look into the single coil issue on the neck pup using a screw driver if I tap the slugs it is going into single coil but there is hardly any output if I coil tap the bridge pup I can hear it going to single coil however while on the bridge in single coil if I switch out of phase it is still single coil but much louder I have checked the wiring and it is as your diagram. Apart from these small issues I am still very happy with the set up as it is far more versatile than before.
    The pickups were changed when I did the JP wiring there were 57plus in the bridge and 57 classic in the neck these were replaced by Iron Gear Tesla sharks which are the same as SD alnico pro twos that Slash uses(I don't play any Slash but like the tone) may be the start finishes might be different but they look the same as Gibson wiring here's a link to the wiring diagram:-
    http://www.irongear.co.uk/irongear_humbucker_coil_polarities_igwatermark.gif

    Cheers
     
  8. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    IMPORTANT EDIT:

    The wiring color code is NOT the same for Irongear as for Gibson pickups, and this is likely the reason that it's not working correctly for you.

    Gibson is Slug Start-Red / Slug Finish-White and Screw Start-Black / Screw Finish-Green
    Irongear is Slug Start-Black / Slug Finish-White and Screw Start-Red / Screw Finish-Green

    In any case, what you will notice that White and Green are switched, and this is the reason splitting the neck coil isn't working, you are going from Screw finish (hot) to Slug start (ground) to when you pull the switch.
    With Gibson this is going Screw Finish (hot) / Screw Start (ground) when splitting the neck.

    You are not splitting within one humbucker but with both and then they are no longer connected - no signal.

    You need to switch green and white on the neck vol pot for the split to work for neck pickup.

    You need to switch red with black if you want to split the same coils as with the Gibsons, with the way you have it now it's reversed, Gibson Slug is Irongear Screw.
    It's kind of painful for me to go through every detail with what is happening with the Irongear pickups with the different wire color codes, but this could also explain some of the phasing/single coil effects that you are experiencing.

    I think that the next mod that I will do is to try log pots for the volumes, linear works fine with 50s wiring when playing clean but it's more like an on-off switch when playing with a lot of distortion.

    Cheers
     
  9. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Hey blues360,

    I'm really sorry, I must have way to many other things on my mind these days....:hmm:

    After thinking about this a little bit longer, one solution to your wiring problem is to simply switch the black with the red pickup wires, leaving the green and white where they are.
    Then the Irongear pickups will be wired into the circuits the same way as the Gibsons are, in terms of whether the slug or screw coil is split.
    Then you split to the screw for neck and slug for bridge.

    If you switch only the green and white wires and leave the red and black, you split to the opposite coil as for the Gibsons. You then get slug for neck and screw for bridge when split.
    But maybe this is what you want.

    In any case, only four wires in total to switch.
    Let us know how it works out.

    Cheers
     
  10. blues360

    blues360 Junior Member

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    hotzslaw no need to be sorry you have done more than enough.
    I had a quick session with the soldering iron today and swapped the red and black wires round and this solved all problems and have been playing around this afternoon with various settings now all I need is a mini e-tune system and I would have a very versatile LP and would save me taking 2 or 3 guitars to a gig to play different slide tunings and standard tuning.

    Thank you once again.

    Cheers
     
  11. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Awesome!

    Glad to hear it.

    Cheers
     
  12. marquito

    marquito Junior Member

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    Hello Hotzlaw, i just wanted to ask a quick question. i already have JP wiring on my guitar [i think the Seymore Duncan version] but would like to modify it to include the 50s wiring. i was going to use the wiring as shown on the youtube "Jimmy Page 50s wiring" which as far i can make out is the same as yours.

    my issue is that i would like to have the slug coils active when i pull the relevant PUs volume knob. i think your version activates the screw PU. i realise you can activate the bridge slug coil by pulling both bridge vol & tone knobs.

    i was wondering can i do this by simply switching the PU conductor wires around [grounding the green wire, joining red and white, and making black hot] and have all the other combinations work as intended, or would the rest of the wiring have to be altered for it to work as intended. that wire colouring refers to Seymore Duncan colours as used on the youtube video [sorry i should have changed them to Gibson colours to suit you].

    edit: actually when i look at your drawing again it looks like you have done that. sorry i getting confused with all the different wire colour codes. my PUs are Bare Knuckle so are different again. the simplest solution is probably to ask you which coils you have active when you pull the bridge or neck vol knobs? i get from your drawing that the slug coil remains active is that correct?

    regards
     
  13. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Hi,

    When splitting the neck the screw is active, and when splitting the bridge the slug is active. The reason for this is so that split and series is humbucking.

    Hope this helps.
     
  14. marquito

    marquito Junior Member

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    great i'll try it that way thanks.
     
  15. drum63

    drum63 Junior Member

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    Hi,

    First time poster here.
    Apologies if it is bad form to reply to an old thread but I wanted to thank Hotzlaw for the info on this page.

    I've just followed the diagrams above and mine also worked first time.

    My intro to guitar electronics began about an hour after buying an Epi Pro Top Plus, when I managed to pull out the shaft from one of the stock push/pull switches.
    I found from this site that this is a common issue.

    I'm new to guitar but not electronics and as the shop was 60 miles away I decided to try to fix it myself rather than take it back for repair.
    Thirty minutes later, with the pot in pieces and a missing spring I decided that a new pot was required.
    Due to the PCB's and mylex connectors I searched for and finally found a new Epiphone harness on line in Hong Kong, but when that arrived I realised why these Pots are not that readily available, as due to the poor quality the demand must be really low.

    So, having decided that I needed a new approach I started reading, mostly on this site, about Vintage Wiring, CTS pots, 50's style etc. and then stumbled across the Jimmy Page options.
    Being a gadget fan, to me 4 switches simply MUST be better than 2 or none :)
    and I decided that was the option for me.

    I realised that the various Coil tap, OOP, Series/Parallel tones would make absolutely no difference, given my current playing ability but being reasonably adept with a soldering iron I thought I would give it a go and if I failed, revert to something simpler.

    I bought Alpha Push/Push pots, matching Speed knobs and a Switchcraft Switch and Jack from AxesRus in UK - (recommended for their fast delivery) and some braided switch wire and 22 AWG hook up wire from ebay sellers.

    I found a few other diagrams and instructions online but when I stumbled across this page it looked very comprehensive and straight forward and so I decided to follow this.

    Thanks again Hotzlaw, for your efforts in producing this page. It certainly made the task easier having such clear instructions, (although it did still take me about 6 hours)

    Using other info on this great forum, I also managed to install a Tusq nut, setup the neck relief and action, and virtually eliminate the fret buzz that came as a freebie from the factory.

    cheers !
     
  16. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Hey drum63,

    You're welcome, I'm really happy to read that it all worked out for you.

    :applause:

    Thanks for posting your experience, and enjoy your "new" guitar!
     
  17. slidejob

    slidejob Junior Member

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    Greetings from a new member.

    Hotzlaw, I want to thank you for all the time & research you have done on this mod. I myself just started searching how to do the JP mod, but I also wanted that 50's sound, your thread is perfect.

    I'm going to challenge you a bit, as I want to do my JP mod on a hollow body Washburn Delta King OE-30.

    Oscar Schmidt OE30 Electric Guitar by Washburn

    As you can see from the link it is a Gibson 335 copy, with 2 humbuckers, 3 way switch at extreme end of axe, out put is conventional.

    Body has a 2.0" depth, and my understanding is that the push pull pots are 1.75", so I should have room to mount assembly.

    Without taking pups apart I will assume it is a 2 wire setup and I will need to make them 4 wire. I found this link showing how to do it & I'm curious if it matches your wiring schematic?

    Guitar Wiring Site - Humbucker Construction

    The above link also recommends using 4 conductor phone cable. One issue I see with the hollow body is getting the assembly into the body as a complete unit. So my thought is to use a male & female phone connection on one of the pups so that I can feed the assembly through the body and then connect the plugs to complete the circuit. Your thoughts on that idea?

    I'm a blues player primarily using a slide & like distortion and do not like my tones too dark. After reading your thread it sounds like the "A" pots for the volume & the "B" pots for the tone, as a 15 cap for the neck & 22 cap for the bridge are the way to go, can you please confirm?

    Any other thoughts and guidance on this project would be most appreciated.

    Thanks in advance for your help.

    slidejob
     
  18. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    Hey slidejob,

    Sorry about the late reply, I was on Easter vacation.....

    You're welcome, I'm glad that you find the guide helpful.

    I like your idea of putting this harness into the Washburn. Something different!:cool:

    I also think that your idea of using some kind of connector very good. I would think about using a connector where you could connect the prewired harness with outgoing leads for the pickup and switch, for example. For 4-wire pickups that would be about 10 connections or so, depending on how you want to ground everything....:hmm:... yes, I would think about some type of connectors like the ones that you find in some Epiphones and Gibson Les Pauls.

    When you manage to split the pickups into 4 wire ones then it's just a matter of which wire on your pickups correspond to the ones in the guide. It'll work.

    I use B taper for volume and A for tone. After playing around with A and B for volume I still prefer the B, but it's a matter of preference. Most people would say stick with audio taper for the tones, I would agree.

    Good luck with your project and keep us posted!
     
  19. slidejob

    slidejob Junior Member

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    Hey hotzlaw, no need to apologize, vaca is a priority.

    Ya, great tip on making 1 large connector or maybe multiple. Problem with this axe is it is semi-hollow with a neck support through the center making it even a little more confined. Trying to feed all 4 pots through the bridge humbucker cavity maybe a challenge, as the caps may not have the flexibility I may need to feed through plus all the pots seem to be connected in some form, I assume this makes the assembly fairly ridge, I may have to be creative.

    Any other input greatly appreciated.

    Thanks

    slidejob
     
  20. hotzlaw

    hotzlaw Senior Member

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    :hmm:... in that case I would think about soldering the caps to the tone pots (between the lug and ground) and connecting the lug to the volume pot with a wire. This is the way my Tribute plus was wired stock. Electrically, it is the same as connecting the cap between the pots and will solve the "rigid" issue.

    But I can imagine that it will still be a "fiddly" proposition.
     

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