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#121 (permalink) | |
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Re: Wiring Library
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![]() Sorry for taking up your time and to the forum at large. I plan to stick around though after I fix it; just in a less annoying way
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#122 (permalink) | |
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Hey bro it's all good, I gotta give you a lot of credit for doing it over until you get it right. ![]() 1-574-806-4118 is my cell. call me if you get stuck. I am not teaching tonight and should be around, leave me a number on my voice mail if you don't get me and I will call you back for sure ![]() |
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#124 (permalink) | |
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Well if you are trying to go for 50's style wiring in any form or fashion this is not the diagram you want to use. Even if you connect the cap to the center lug on volume(upper right) it will kinda look like 50's Vol/Tone circuit but on true 50's LP wiring leads from switch are connected to the center lug of volume just like cap. This diagram has the switch leads to the individual wiring. The 50's wiring is a bit over hyped and works well in some guitars. I have my 06' LP wired modern and it sounds much thicker and warmer. Switched from 50's to Modern Wiring |
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#125 (permalink) | ||
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Re: Wiring Library
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Caps tied to the back of the tone pots, and to the outside lug. Then my switch wires are on the outside lugs of the volume pots. See below.![]() So it's 50s wiring/independent volumes, but with the caps tied back? Why tie it back anyway, and introduce new wires (shown in blue) in the process?
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#126 (permalink) |
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There are many ways to wire a 2 v 2 t circuit with 3 way switch. the way your guitar looks is like many modern import guitars are wired up. Here is the diagram I use for 50's wiring, but it may or may not improve the sound of your guitar.
50's wiring allows bit more treble, and that may make your guitar sound a little harsh or bitey. You have to tinker and experiment if you really want to find what works best for your playing style and what sounds best to your ear. Having the caps tied back to Tone pots is the way seymour duncan shows it in his diagrams?
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#127 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
Funny I was just about to ask about variations on wiring and the variation the poster listed above.
I have a guitar with 2 P90's. I have an RS kit and '50's wiring in it now. I was cleaning up my bench and I found the OE Epiphone wiring. It has 2 small unknown unlabeled brownish caps that run from the mid lug on the tone pot to the body/ground of the tone pot. This does what and why? And this is the same way Seymour Duncan shows 2 P90's wired on his site. The RS kit is .22 Grey Tigers, 500K super vol pots and 250K audio tone pots. Stock was 4 500K pots and these ? caps. I have standard '50's wiring in it now. Neil |
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#129 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
I just aquired a rather lovely honey burst plus top epi lp standard. The guy who had it sold it for 200 bucks so i got rather lucky. He had changed out some dead pots with the wrong pots and the top hat knobs didn't fit over the new pots so i got the right pots, dug my old soldering iron, and went to work. The bridge pickup was no big deal but the neck pickup is giving me a bit of trouble and I was wondering if maybe one of you guys could help. The wiring diagrams just don't seem to help with my issue.
firstly I'm not new to wiring electric guitars. I have been in and out of strat type guitars for years and recently managed to pull off ibanez split 5 wiring however - the les paul is a different beast altogether. The neck pickup itself is no big deal - the hot goes to the first lead on the neck volume pot the ground goes to the case of the pot. The tone pot has a similar set up with one wire coming off of it with two connections, one going to the first lead and the second coming off the case which if i recall before i desoldered everything these connections mirror the neck pickup - the connection coming off of the lead on the volume pot goes to the lead where the hot of the neck pickup goes and the other connection goes to the case. Next is the quick connector harness thing coming off of the switch. I think this is where i'm messing up but i'm not sure - Every diagram i've seen has one connection here but the wire has two connections like a guitar pickup. One of them appears to be a hot which i am wiring to the second lead of the volume pot and the next is a braided cable like a ground so i am wiring it to the case. what happens is nothing - the neck pickup doesn't work at all. Any ideas? |
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#130 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
[/QUOTE]On this picture the ground wire from the switch seems to go straight to the jack (or vice versa depending on how you look at it). The ground wire isn't grounded to a pot on its way through the cavity. This is confusing me (see above!! - don't, it will confuse you too). Does it need to stop at a pot for grounding or can it go switch -> jack directly? |
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#131 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
There are lot's of LP wiring diagrams already posted, I think you should find them and study them. If you cant find what you are looking for let me know.
peace, jonesy |
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#133 (permalink) |
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The 1st one looks ok from what I can see, the second does not complete ground loop.
Here is a diagram I use, caps are wired a bit differently but don't worry about that, look at switch wires.(switch is different style than what you have shown).
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#134 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
So the wire coming from the switch ground lug needs to be sort of 'plugged in' to the ground loop that is going on with the pots; before it gets to the jack?
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#135 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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#137 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
![]() The ground has to loop, trust me I have wired up a few guitars before.
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#138 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
So Jonesy, what you're saying is that the braided ground wire from the input jack, when it crosses the treble volume braided wire that goes to the switch, are connected together somehow when they cross each other, right? (in this pic above)
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#139 (permalink) |
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Yes sir, IMO that seems to be the case. I don't wire it that way, but it is an older way Gibson has done it. I think the LP's with the metal plate that have a central grounding point in the middle of the plate are kind of wired the same way.
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#141 (permalink) |
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Can't say for sure as far as exact years go, but I would say they started out that way back in the 50's, and then switched up when they started installing the metal grounding plates in the 60's n 70's?
Wiring changed over the years and IMO varied from guitar to guitar, model to model. Someone else may have a little more detailed info. on exact years etc. Gibson has gone through several changes in tone caps but they have all been .02/.022 50's Bumble Bees. 60's Black beauties. 70's large ceramic disc caps, 80's-Present small ceramic disc caps. The latest change I am aware of in Gibson LP wiring is the new PCB circuit board in the new LP Standards, it still has the little 223 ceramic disc caps soldered to it though. |
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#142 (permalink) | |
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Re: Wiring Library
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But the foil surrounding these wires was soldered to the bridge tone pot and also to the earth prong of the switch thus 'pluggin in' to the earth loop as Jonesy was suggesting above. Does this mean then that the shielded wire I am going to run from the jack (gibson style silver colour) all the way to the switch needs not only to be soldered onto a bridge pot but soldered in such a way to the switch that the wire touches the lug, but so does the shielding? |
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#143 (permalink) | |
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Dude, this is not Rocket Science and you are over thinking it and making this way to complicated. You have several drawings and all the information you need to complete your LP wiring. Go wire it up and see what happens, if you follow my instructions I guarantee it will work. You seem to be doubting what I am telling you for some reason, or maybe you should take it to a tech?? |
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#144 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
lol.
I've got the skills down I need now, soldering etc But now I want to do a 'perfect' install. So I don't want to take out the soldering iron and be desoldering or resoldering anything later on. I'm trying to be sure before I start as opposed to a see what happens; cause then if I have to change something it's a messy job... |
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#145 (permalink) | |
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![]() Making mistakes and correcting them is an essential part of the learning process IMHO, God knows that is how I learned
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#146 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
The way I understand it is, as long as everything that needs to be connected to ground is, in any way, connected, it doesn't matter how you do it. Like on the metal plate, all the grounds from the pots, jack, switch, pu's just all come together and join there.
I suppose in theory you could connect a wire, insulated or not, to each ground on each part, ie. a wire from each pu ground, a wire from each pot case and lug that requires a connection to ground and one from the switch, then connect all these wires together and have one single wire from this bunch to the jack ground, it would work the same. If you metered this with a multimeter set on beep for continuity, and placed probes to measure between any two pot casing, it would beep. It doesn't really matter what route the ground takes, it doesn't matter if you dont have a loop of ground outer braid going in a circle from pot to pot, as long as it all meets up at the jack ground, as each pot will have a physical connection to the ground, and to each others ground. The different layouts on drawings or photos are just different ways of achieving the same thing (as opposed to a circuit diagram)
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#147 (permalink) | |
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Re: Wiring Library
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#148 (permalink) |
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Re: Wiring Library
Ok, I've read through this thread and many others and I still can't find the answers to my questions. I have a 1979 Les Paul Custom. It looks like someone has been into the electronics before, judging from the horrible soldering job. I am going to be replacing the pots, switches, and input jack with new ones. The originals (?) are scratchy and the sweep sucks. I think they are 250-300k pots, but not sure. I like the guitar's sound, it's very dark and mellow. I'd like to keep it that way. But, I was thinking about going with RS Guitar Works kit. Probably the modern kit, even though the pots would be 500k. Unless there are better alternatives out there.
However, my guitar is currently wired to, what looks like, a modern style hybrid? I haven't found any diagrams or pictures that match the way my guitar is wired. Any insights would be appreciated. The guitar is not grounded, but it is shielded by a big metal cover that fits over the electronics cavity and the 3 way switch sits inside another metal cup-like piece that lines its cavity and it is grounded to that. However, the guitar, itself, is not grounded to the strings or bridge or anything. It doesn't really need it, though. The bridge's tone control works differently than the neck's. The bridge's has a sort of "Q Filter" effect, almost like a wah pedal in the heel down position, when the tone control is all the way off. It's very cool and very subtle. Anyway, any advice on how to wire up the guitar if I get new pots and such? Also, the input jack is some weird assembly that has the same shielded back as a pot, it's not a typical jack like I've seen. My other question is how would the guitar sound wired up in the different configurations such as the Modern wiring, vintage wiring, 50's wiring, and etc.? Notice how there is no ground wire connecting all the pots and the caps are connecting the respective volume pot with its tone pot. Whereas, in the RS Modern kit, the caps are connecting the two tone pots together. It seems there are many, many different ways to wire the guitar to a basic stock configuration (not talking about all the weird special ways for master tone/volue, parallel/series, and etc.) So, I'm a little lost as to how I should wire the guitar. Here is a pic. I can get more detailed ones if needed.
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#150 (permalink) | |
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Re: Wiring Library
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Your guitar is grounded, all this means is that there is a phyical connection between the strings and the ground of the wiring. Easy to double check this, get a mutilmeter on continuity beep setting, touch your strings with one probe and a pot chassy with the other, then listen. If your strings aren't connected to the ground, they should be, normally by a piece of wire that connects to the bridge from ground anywhere in the wiring harness.
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