Wiring Library

[FourT6and2]

Interesting. Thanks!

[TyrantLizard]

Originally Posted by jonesy

Yeah I was thinking that might be how it was. Well with the cap tied back to the Tone pot like that it really sucks the Tone out of your signal especially when volume is rolled off. I would remove the cap, solder the center lug of the Tone pot back to the case. Put the cap where the jumper is between the outer lugs of the volume and Tone pot and run that center hot lead from the switch to the outside of the volume lug.

It would look like that modded Tele diagram with the 3 way LP style switch I posted. That is as close to 50's wiring you are going to get on that kind of set-up. You will have a more open sound and your highs should be preserved when volumes are rolled down.

Thanks again Jonesy for the input. I've made changes to the Seymour Duncan wiring diagram to reflect this mod for anyone with a PRS McCarty who's interested. (I hope I'm not violating any copyright laws)

[jonesy]

Nice job

[edhok78]

Originally Posted by edhok78

the red wire comes from the pickups and the braided wire comes from the switch..what do you mean ¨is there anything touching or solder dripped down into the tabs?¨ ?? what is the tabs?
sorry im not that good in english.

sir jonesy any reply on my question please??..

thanks....

[jonesy]

Originally Posted by edhok78

sir jonesy any reply on my question please??..

thanks....

Originally Posted by edhok78

the red wire comes from the pickups and the braided wire comes from the switch..what do you mean ¨is there anything touching or solder dripped down into the tabs?¨ ?? what is the tabs?
sorry im not that good in english.

Sorry Bro I have been swamped here at the shop lately and had to run out to the post office this morning to get some orders shipped out.

You have it wired for independent volumes then. (not vintage 50's) Also do you have the braided ground all soldered together at the switch? And also make sure that braided from the input jack does not touch any of the lugs and cause a short. I normally slip a piece of tubing over the part that runs through the body cavity to prevent that.

I meant the tabs or lugs that the wires solder to on the switch. If solder runs down and goes onto the case of the switch it can jump the contacts together and cause a short.

[TyrantLizard]

I re-wired my PRS McCarty using the attached diagram. You'll find that it's follows the 50s concept (as presented by Jonesy ) and replaced the stock cap with one of his Sprague .015 PIO.

I'm very happy with the results. The tone opens up very nicely - airy and rich in harmonics, even at relatively low volumes. It nearly delivered as much difference as when I changed out the pups to SD'59 neck and SD JB bridge.

Now it's time to turn our attention to my ObG.

[jonesy]

Nice job!

I love happy endings

[hellraiser_666]

hey guys, im going with this diagram atm Wiring Diagram

and im getting troubled by the treble loss problem as i turn the volume down, so i was wondering if someone could help me figure out the 50s wiring (if possible) on this sort of guitars. thanks

[jonesy]

Yeah look at the last couple of posts bro, same exact thing you are wanting to do

[hellraiser_666]

ahhh sweet, sorry i didnt see the post before.

btw, did you get my email jonesy?

[jonesy]

Hmm, I am not sure...I think I have already answered any emails I just got recently. Did you send it to jonesyblues@yahoo.com?

[hellraiser_666]

yeah, i think its that one. I'll just send another one today

[jonesy]

ok

[Raz59]

So after some minutes scribbling in paint, I came up with this:



It's mostly the Jimmy Page wiring found on Seymour Duncan's site. What I did was solder the middle lugs of the tone pots to the back of the pots, and replace the jumpers between volume and tone pots with the capacitors.

Question: Is this now wired 50's style or am I missing something?

[DualAxis]

Well jonesy is already helping me but, does anybody have a photo of an epi control cavity with 50s wiring?

Thanks

[hellraiser_666]

Okay, im shooting for the star here (at least for me it is)

anyway, i want to get a volume (push/pull that control the serise and parallal), and a spin-a-split for each pickup.

this might sound easy for you pros, but im scratching my head off here.

Help............Please

EDIT: Btw, its PRS pickups, so three wires not 4 conductor

[will c]

Originally Posted by DualAxis

Well jonesy is already helping me but, does anybody have a photo of an epi control cavity with 50s wiring?

Thanks

Jonesyblues Custom Shop @Jonesyblues.com

Hope it helps

Will

[edhok78]

Originally Posted by jonesy

Most likely the outside lugs on the volume pots are not soldered back (grounded) to the case. Try checking that and let me know if that corrects the problem. If you could also post some pics of your wiring that helps out a lot with trouble shooting as well.

thanks..sir jonesy its the outside lug that was not properly soldered to the top of the pots...

the problem now i have is that the when i raise the tone knob it gets hi frequency sound like grounded or something...
when i put down to zero nothing sounded..

once again sir need your help..

thanks...

[hellraiser_666]

Originally Posted by edhok78

thanks..sir jonesy its the outside lug that was not properly soldered to the top of the pots...

the problem now i have is that the when i raise the tone knob it gets hi frequency sound like grounded or something...
when i put down to zero nothing sounded..

once again sir need your help..

thanks...

you mean humming, really bad humming? if thats the case, its probably because you havent grounded the pot itself to another pot. or just check you grounded everything in general, ESPECIALLY blade style switches, ive seen so many school mates come to me and paying $50 to fix the hum. but when i open it up, its just the switch.............

[edhok78]

Originally Posted by hellraiser_666

you mean humming, really bad humming? if thats the case, its probably because you havent grounded the pot itself to another pot. or just check you grounded everything in general, ESPECIALLY blade style switches, ive seen so many school mates come to me and paying $50 to fix the hum. but when i open it up, its just the switch.............

i don't know what seems to be the problem.i have a picture on page 16,,
or maybe i solder too much the tone pot and entered the hole on the middle lug or something..
i have a switchcraft switch for lp..
what happened to the switch??
cause when i touches the string , the metal part of the toggle switch and the metal part of the jack and the tuners the sound goes away..

could it be a bad capacitor?

[hellraiser_666]

Originally Posted by edhok78

i don't know what seems to be the problem.i have a picture on page 16,,
or maybe i solder too much the tone pot and entered the hole on the middle lug or something..
i have a switchcraft switch for lp..
what happened to the switch??
cause when i touches the string , the metal part of the toggle switch and the metal part of the jack and the tuners the sound goes away..

could it be a bad capacitor?

okay, you got major ground issues on grounding

the hum goes away when you touch things is because those "things" arent grounded, and when you touch it, you become the ground. thats why it goes away. (hope that made sense.......)

anyways, so go back to the cavity, check to see if you grounded the toggle switch, output jack, and the ground between each pots, oh and dnt forget the bridge ground.

[Raz59]

Originally Posted by Raz59

So after some minutes scribbling in paint, I came up with this:



It's mostly the Jimmy Page wiring found on Seymour Duncan's site. What I did was solder the middle lugs of the tone pots to the back of the pots, and replace the jumpers between volume and tone pots with the capacitors.

Question: Is this now wired 50's style or am I missing something?

Bump for posteriority! Requesting some help here with that question.
(I'm assuming the schematic is right)I'm thinking that the middle lugs on the tone pots, since they're push/pulls, can't be soldered to the "back" of the pot, so I might as well cut them...or do I really need to solder them?

My guitar already has an out-of-phase sound in the middle position, but I'm hungering for more! So I'm saving money for 4 push/pulls and some length of 4-conductor wire, I'll buy all of this off a local store that accepts online orders.

I'll ask the luthier/handyman of the nearest guitar shop to convert the two humbuckers of the LP to 4 conductor wire and I'll give him this schematic, but I'm not sure that the little alterations I did to it translate into something feasible...so a little help please...if the schematic is correct, then it'll be a good entry for other people looking into a JP wiring with 50's wiring benefits!

[jonesy]

It may or may not work like that? Be sure to let us know if it does Raz. The way I wire my new 50's style Jimmy Page rigs is totally different than the diagram you have posted. My series and phase mods are even wired differently. My new 50's style JP rig is not based off of the Seymour Duncan diagram at all.

[lukemacauley]

Originally Posted by Raz59

Bump for posteriority! Requesting some help here with that question.
(I'm assuming the schematic is right)I'm thinking that the middle lugs on the tone pots, since they're push/pulls, can't be soldered to the "back" of the pot, so I might as well cut them...or do I really need to solder them?

My guitar already has an out-of-phase sound in the middle position, but I'm hungering for more! So I'm saving money for 4 push/pulls and some length of 4-conductor wire, I'll buy all of this off a local store that accepts online orders.

I'll ask the luthier/handyman of the nearest guitar shop to convert the two humbuckers of the LP to 4 conductor wire and I'll give him this schematic, but I'm not sure that the little alterations I did to it translate into something feasible...so a little help please...if the schematic is correct, then it'll be a good entry for other people looking into a JP wiring with 50's wiring benefits!

That would work yes, since the pots are separate from the push/pulls there's no reasons why it wouldn't. As long as you have solid grounds and connections then you're good to go.

[jonesy]

Originally Posted by lukemacauley

That would work yes, since the pots are separate from the push/pulls there's no reasons why it wouldn't. As long as you have solid grounds and connections then you're good to go.

If you notice there is a jumper from the top pin on the bridge Tone push pull to the lower lug on the neck tone pot, then the cap connects to the lug on the volume pot. And the pots are also grounded to the back of the push pull's as well so they are not all totally separate.

[lukemacauley]

On hindsight, there was a jumper connected before going from the bridge tone to the bridge volume but putting a cap in it's place could jeopardise it, because the cap won't act as a conductor like a normal jumper would. Depends if that's a vital wire or just there for modern style wiring.

But it should work on the neck pots.

@Jonesy: A ground circuit is a ground circuit though, I wouldn't say they're "connected" as such.

[jonesy]

Originally Posted by lukemacauley

On hindsight, there was a jumper connected before going from the bridge tone to the bridge volume but putting a cap in it's place could jeopardise it, because the cap won't act as a conductor like a normal jumper would. Depends if that's a vital wire or just there for modern style wiring.

But it should work on the neck pots.

@Jonesy: A ground circuit is a ground circuit though, I wouldn't say they're "connected" as such.

Well as far as the grounding goes...if you really understood how some of the phase and series mod's work by flip-flopping hot and ground maybe you would think otherwise.

[lukemacauley]

Originally Posted by jonesy

Well as far as the grounding goes...if you really understood how some of the phase and series mod's work by flip-flopping hot and ground maybe you would think otherwise.

No need to be patronising dude, you're not impressing anyone. I'm saying it doesn't matter if you ground it to the back or the pot or to the back of the DPDT switch.

[Raz59]

I guess starting off the Seymour Ducan schematic is not the best idea. I just came off this place and I gained somewhat of a headache.

4 push/pulls open a whole new door to combinations. It's not just split, OOP, master series/parallel anymore, it seems...I'll have to juggle between the options of a 'broadbucker' option, local series/parallel humbucker for single coil sounds with no hum, buffers, etc etc. I do wish the diagram gurus would discuss it here, though.

[jonesy]

Originally Posted by lukemacauley

No need to be patronising dude, you're not impressing anyone. I'm saying it doesn't matter if you ground it to the back or the pot or to the back of the DPDT switch.

@Jonesy: A ground circuit is a ground circuit though, I wouldn't say they're "connected" as such.

That's what you said, and I still don't think you understand how it really works.