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#1 (permalink) |
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FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
From Gibson:
From 1970-1975 the method of serializing instruments at Gibson became even more random. All numbers were impressed into the wood and a six digit number assigned, though no particular order was given and some instruments had a letter prefix. The orange labels inside hollow bodied instruments was discontinued in 1970 and were replaced by white and orange rectangle labels on the acoustics, and small black, purple and white rectangle labels were placed on electric models. In 1970, the words "MADE IN USA" was impressed into the back of instrument headstocks (though a few instruments from the 1950s also had MADE IN USA impressed into their headstocks as well). 1970, 1971, and 1972 100000s, 600000s, 700000s, 900000s 1973 ...........................000001s, 100000s, 200000s, 800000s and a few “A” + 6 digit numbers 1974 and 1975 ...........100000s, 200000s, 300000s, 400000s,500000s, 600000s, 800000s and a few A-B-C-D-E-F + 6 digit numbers During the period from 1975-1977 Gibson used a transfer that had eight digit numbers, the first two indicate the year, 99=1975, 00=1976 and 06=1977, the following six digits are in the 100000 to 200000 range. MADE IN USA were also included on the transfer and some models had LIMITED EDITION also applied. A few bolt on neck instruments had a date ink stamped on the heel area. In 1977, Gibson first introduced the serialization method that is in practice today. This updated system utilizes an impressed eight digit numbering scheme that covers both serializing and dating functions. As you can see, the serial number series repeats in some years. Pot codes are the best - look for 137yyww where yy=Year and ww=Week, eg 1377415 is the 15th week of 1974. Other things to note: - through 1974 necks were mahogany, in 1975 they changed to maple. Check under your truss rod cover. - through 1974 they used a trans tenon (see the FAQ tenon thread), in 1975 the short tenon started. BUT, some '75s and even '76s were made with a trans tenon. Pull the neck pickup, you can see the tenon if it's a trans, you cannot see a tenon if it's short. Last edited by dwagar; 03-26-2009 at 12:32 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
I used to have a '76 Deluxe that had a six-digit serial. It also had a maple neck, so there must have been some cross-over.
I remember at the time people telling me back then (late '70s\early '80s) that the 6-digit serials were from the Kalamazoo plant, and the 8-digits were from Nashville. It was probably wrong, but seemed like a good explanation at the time...
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#3 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
I've never heard of a '76 with a 6 digit serial, there were '75s though.
And I've never thought of it, maybe Nashville never made a 6 digit serial number guitar? From the Gibson serial number chart: However, it has come to light recently that the Kalamazoo plant did not directly switch over to the “new” 8 digit serialization method in 1977. When the Nashville Gibson plant was opened in 1974, it was decided that the bulk of the production of products would be run in the South; the Kalamazoo plant would produce the higher end (fancier) models in the North. Of course, many of the older guitar builders and craftsmen were still in Kalamazoo; and if they weren't ready to change how they built guitars, then they may not have been ready to change how they numbered them! Certain guitar models built in the late 1970s can be used to demonstrate the old-style 6 digit serial numbers. It is estimated that Gibson's Kalamazoo plant continued to use the 6 digit serial numbers through 1978 and 1979. So double check the serial numbers on those 1970s L-5s, Super 400s, and Super 5 BJBs! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
I wonder if I have any documentation lying around about that particular guitar that would show its serial number (like the original bill of sale or the police\insurance papers from when it got stolen). Although, just going on the serial number won't give me a definitive date...
I always called it a '76, though I don't know (or don't remember) what led me to that conclusion. I got it as a Christmas gift from my Dad in '77, so I suppose it could have been a '75. I always thought maple necks began in '76, but I was obviously wrong on that call. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
yes, maple necks started in '75. That would make the most sense. But you never know with Gibson, lol. Also, back then we weren't as concerned with the year as we are today.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
I believe three of the pots my Les Paul came with are original--one was obviously not--I'll check the codes and see if that can narrow down the year more than the serial number.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
The pot's in mine checked out as '76 (1377613), but also under the metal plate that the pots are mounted on there are 2 dates, Sept 76 and Oct 76, stamped in ink on the bottom of wood in the control cav. Mine has a 3 pc maple neck. They must have assembled the wood parts in Sept and painted it in Oct.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
My original 75 Custom has pots that date 5x week of 74, 6 digit serial, volute, trans tenon, t-tops, mahogany 3-piece neck, pancake body, rounded profile neck, fretless wonder frets, ect - about 10 pounds
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#9 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
My Goldtop has 6 digit serial number.. 3 piece mahogny neck, pancake body and the only pot which I can tell is dated says 137733 or something..
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#13 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
have a peek at the thread FAQ:Tenons.
A trans tenon pokes through into the neck pickup cavity - it's prior to the change to the short tenon. I think all mahogany necks are trans tenons. It's also known as a modified long tenon - same as a long tenon but with the tongue cut off. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
Curious thing about my '76 Deluxe. Serial number is 00131595. The only discernable number on one of the pots is 137745(solder blob). So, a '74 pot in a '76 guitar. That's some time gap.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
my custom has a 172*** serial and 2 of the pots are apparently originals, but the pot serial is 70-028 (??)
does that mean that it's a 1970? the original owner bought it new in 1975 |
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#16 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
that's not the pot code, that's a part number or something, look for a number 137yyww - yy is year, ww is week.
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#17 (permalink) | |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
Quote:
maybe it's located in other part of the pot? edit: found another number under the dirt apparently says 13773 something so I assume it's a 73 |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
yep, should be. If it was a late 73 pot it could be an early 74. And sitting in the store for a year is reasonable (to the new purchase in 75) But you're in the right zone now. Good thing it still had an original pot.
It should have a mahog neck, trans tenon, possibly stickered TTops, bonus. |
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#19 (permalink) |
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sry its actually a 3 piece neckhello i believe my new guitar is from this era but would like any information on it if possible. i can't see the dates on the pots due to the soldering and a little bit of corrosion unfortunately. it has the pancake body, kluson tuners, neck volute, three piece neck, 3 piece top and a beautiful zero flame cherry sunburst. i could provide the serial number if necessary... just joined this site but is it ever awesome...almost as awesome as my les pauls
Last edited by StangsSwang; 09-05-2009 at 02:12 AM. |
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#21 (permalink) |
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Re: FAQ: Norlin identification 1970-1975
Can I chip in with something that gets missed a lot; the position of the decals and the Gibson "i" dot.
I have two 1970 Deluxes and both have the "Les Paul Model" decal set high on the headstock, meaning they were late 69/early 70 model pancakes. To make it even more fun, one is older than the other as it has no dot over the "i". Just thought it might be useful to know when dating early models. Cheers ![]() ![]()
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