Recommend an oil-based grain filler

[Mr Bones]

I've been using the behlen's Pore-Pac filler, but I've been having problems with it causing cracking (still shrinking weeks after application), and bad adhesion to lacquer (Behlen's Qualalacq). What do you guys recommend. I've tried water-based, but want to steer clear of it, since it was much harder to apply.

[marcovis]

I use McFadden's pore filler. I buy it in mahogany brown, but you can get clear or other colors I believe. Wipe on, let dry/set up for a couple minutes, and wipe off. It works great. I fill the pores at the end of my first day of spraying lacquer, but you can also use is as a pore fill/stain if you apply it before finishing. Always let it sit for 24 hours before spraying lacquer over it.

[Mr Bones]

Hmm, looks like that McFaddens has a shorter drying time. I let mine sit at least 5 days.

[marcovis]

Not sure the reasoning for waiting 5 days after filling, but I have never had an issue using the McFaddens pore filler. Like I said, my first day of spraying is 2 wash/base coats of 50/50 lacquer/thinner (30 min between coats) and 3 top coats of 90/10 lacquer/thinner(1 hour between coats). After the last coat of lacquer has sat for an hour or so, I rub the pore filler on with a paper towel. I do small areas (6"x6") at a time letting them dry for a few minutes, then wipe them off with a clean paper towel at a 45 degree angle. I then let it sit for 24 hours and start spraying top coats on the next spray day.

[BCRGreg]

McFaddens

[single cut 54]

I always leave pore filler at least 3 days , maybe it's not necessary ?

[pinefd]

I noted Marcovis' technique above, but doesn't Gibson apply the tinted pore filler directly to the bare wood, which results in the (almost) final back & neck color?

[BCRGreg]

Yeah. I do not get how Marcovis is doing it.

[pinefd]

Originally Posted by BCRGreg

Yeah. I do not get how Marcovis is doing it.

I'm guessing (and correct me if I'm wrong), since most of his guitars I've seen have a natural colored back, that he may be using clear pore filler, without any tinting...unlike Gibson.

[marcovis]

I use mahogany brown pore filler. I do the only method of pore filling I know. I was taught this way at Roberto-Venn when I attended and have done it the same way ever since.

[BCRGreg]

Oh.

I usually sand the raw wood and then apply the filler directly to the raw wood(after blowing the dust off, of course!). For Cherry and Cherry Sunburst guitars, I tint the filler with color. For TV Finishes I do the same. I have never seen filler used OVER lacquer, so that is why I cannot understand your method.

Maybe I'll try it. Who knows?

[crispacket]

hi umm i was wondering if anyone here could help me, i sanded the raw wood, then i applied my grain filler which is actually a wood filler but is used for grain filling as well; "metolux wood filler (2 part)". I would have got rustins but couldn't find it in shops. Anyway, it's quite a thick filler, like peanut butter or something, dries in about half hour.

After applying it to the wood it really seems like nothing gets worked into the wood as when i scape of the excess (aftr couple mins) almost al of what i put on comes of. Also, am i supposed to see th grain through the filler? there'a a veery thin coat that's fairly smooth, should i give it another coat? thanks

[jack briggs]

I've used both Behlen's Pore-O-Pac and McFadden's. McFadden's cures quicker, Behlen's flashes much quicker. McFadden's dries clear, which can be useful if you tint your own as I do.

I recommend the McFadden's.



Cheers,

[Robster]

I use Bartley's. Thin it about 4:1 with naptha for easier use.

Rob

[pinefd]

Originally Posted by Robster

I use Bartley's. Thin it about 4:1 with naptha for easier use.

Rob

That's good advice, Rob. I also use Bartley's and will have to give the thinning a try.