Building a Chambered LP

[stevedave]

Any new pics of this beauty?

[Mr Bones]

not yet, I just put some WB pickups in last week though, and am really excited about doing another soundclip. I will snap some photos then.

[BorrisBeckorov]

Well I'm new to this thread and I'm totally impressed. Well done. I've actually been a little mia from the forums for a while (building the car below takes all my time) and Roman turned me onto this thread while giving me some tips about a chambered LP I plan to build from KOA in my "Spare time".

I noticed that someone had mentioned a while back using a bridgeport mill, I have access to one (I build hot rods professionally) and was wondering what type of endmill and what speeds you guys would use. I use it on metal all the time but never on wood.

[FLICKOFLASH]

BorrisBeckorov post that pic of you & Billy G

[BorrisBeckorov]

haha I guess that one would be a little more relevant on here. He's a car guy too, and cool as hell.
Still hoping for some bridgeport tips to make my chamber, also anything special for drilling the anchor holes for the bridge/tailpiece so it doesn't tear the wood?

[WBPickups]

Originally Posted by BorrisBeckorov

I want!

[Roman Rist]

Originally Posted by BorrisBeckorov

also anything special for drilling the anchor holes for the bridge/tailpiece so it doesn't tear the wood?

Put some blue tape on top of the wood and use Bradpoint bits

[red2rider]

Hey Borris.

I use to use a mill quit a bit when building guitars.
I could mill the thickness down to where I needed.
Route the neck joint, pickups, whammy bar placement. etc etc
Just like using a router only you didn't have to worry about the damn thing jumping on you and going crazy on the product.

As far as bits I used what ever size best fitted what needed pocketing.
A flycutting bit for milling the thickness down.

By the way I'm a fellow car guy also.
Been restoring cars here in Ky for 20+yrs now. Mostly muscle cars, but have worked on just a bought every thing.

RandyB.

[AndyC]

I just wanted to thank nmguitars for taking us through this process in such a detailed fashion. I really appreciate the education (you ARE a teacher) as well as the craftsmanship that is going into this instrument. Thanks very much!

[FLICKOFLASH]

check out some of Nick's other projects : My Strat Mod

[pinefd]

Can't we stop these f$%*'n idiots?!?

[Mr Bones]

I don't know...
We might have a hard time getting them off!

[pinefd]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

I don't know...
We might have a hard time getting them off!

With that much Viagra, I think you're right!

[shotgunlew]

WOW with all that i could knock the teeth out of my zipper!

[alexn1018]

I know this is way back in the thread but what size binding do you use on the body from stew mac? What size for the neck as well?

Originally Posted by nmguitars

I was going to wait on this part until tomorrow, but was on a roll so I went ahead and put the binding on. I usually use the stew-mac cream ABR plastic binding, but got ahold of some cellulose white binding so wanted to use that. it is not vintage-correct, but not much is on this guitar. I will tint it yellow when I paint the guitar. I use DUCO cement with this binding. Binding tape is essential for this since you can pull really hard on it and it won't break, allowing good pressure on the binding. I masked the mahogany first so that any glue drips would not get saturated into the wood causing problems for the grainfiller stain. Here is the binding going on:



Getting the binding around the bottom horn is REALLY hard. I used a hairdryer to bend the binding, but it is still a real chore, and I'm sure when I take the tape off in the morning I will have so spots to fill.

edit: nvm all set now!

[FLICKOFLASH]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

not yet, I just put some WB pickups in last week though, and am really excited about doing another soundclip. I will snap some photos then.

[Mr Bones]

Originally Posted by FLICKOFLASH

Ok OK, one more soundclip with the WB special brew PUs.
Soundclip

[FLICKOFLASH]

Thanks Nick

[grozza]

this thread was awesome to read, very cool thanks

[DanFogal1960]

Originally Posted by nmguitars

Ok OK, one more soundclip with the WB special brew PUs.
Soundclip

That sounds great!

[River]

What happened? I am enthralled with this project and feel like I got to the end of a great book and found the last chapter missing!

[El Toro]

help!

[Androo]

DAMN that is beautiful!!!

How much did it cost you?

[pvt]

[/QUOTE]
On every guitar up until this point, I have routed a curved truss rod channel using a jig that I made just for this. On a curved channel, the route is deeper in the middle of the neck than on the ends. On 50s LPs including original bursts until 1960, gibson used a straight channel that is 1/2" deep the length of the neck, so I thought I would give this method a try, even though I understand that this will make the truss rod a little less responsive the closer to straight the neck is. I set the blade on the table saw to 1/2" and cut a channel in three passes just slightly wider than 3/16" for the truss rod. It is a nice fit, with just enough room to allow for the truss rod to function, but not be rattling around:
[/QUOTE]

I am building my first les paul, and your (and other members') building threads have been extremely helpful. I am at the stage where I need to cut the truss rod channel. I have built a few teles, and used curved truss rod channels for those. I am trying to decide if I should use a curved or straight channel for the LP. Have you noticed if the straight truss rod channel on your chambered LP is less sensitive than some of your other LPs? Thanks.

[shotgunlew]

Looking good

[Mr Bones]

Originally Posted by pvt

I am building my first les paul, and your (and other members') building threads have been extremely helpful. I am at the stage where I need to cut the truss rod channel. I have built a few teles, and used curved truss rod channels for those. I am trying to decide if I should use a curved or straight channel for the LP. Have you noticed if the straight truss rod channel on your chambered LP is less sensitive than some of your other LPs? Thanks.

I think that some folks (correctly I think) say that a straight rod gives you less control over where the neck bends. With a curved rod, you can pinpoint where the neck will bend. I have found that the straight rod works fine for me though, but I really don't know all that much about really intricate set-ups. As for sensitivity, I've found that it is just as sensitive as a curved rod.

[pinefd]

What the heck is a Mr. Bones?!?

[Mr Bones]

"Mr Bones, what's all about?"

[scholzie]

I really like the sound of this guitar. What settings are your amp and pedals on? You use the Maxon TS808 clone, right? I have a twin and a modded TS808 so I should be able to get close.

[Mr Bones]

I think the first clip is straight into a Super Reverb, the second clip is a Super Reverb with a Maxon OD820 which is a little different from the 808. On the amp I always keep the treble on 8.5 and the Bass on 0-1. The midrange I alter depending on the guitar. With strats I turn it up, with LPs I turn it down, with Tele's I keep it in the middle. I set the reverb on 2-3 and go into the #1 input with the bright switch always off.